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  #16  
Old 02-23-2007, 03:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
I thought that time chain stretch should be attended to before attempting IP timing?
Correct

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  #17  
Old 02-23-2007, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
I thought that time chain stretch should be attended to before attempting IP timing?
Timing the camshaft with the dial indicator will give you the chain elongation.

But, IP timing is done without relevance to the cam timing. If the chain is elongated, the IP is moved closer to the engine to compensate.

You can do IP timing anytime. However, if you're going to replace the chain it makes sense to do that before the IP is timed.
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  #18  
Old 02-23-2007, 03:33 PM
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I planned on atleast checking stretch and doing a woodruff key. Money is kind of tight for chain replacement at this point.
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  #19  
Old 02-23-2007, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
I planned on atleast checking stretch and doing a woodruff key. Money is kind of tight for chain replacement at this point.
There's no requirement to replace the chain on the 617. There are several different keys available depending on how much elongation you have. 4° is the smallest key available.
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  #20  
Old 02-23-2007, 03:54 PM
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First try with marks was ~7deg of stretch so I am going to do the 2mm method and get some accuracy.
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  #21  
Old 02-23-2007, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
First try with marks was ~7deg of stretch so I am going to do the 2mm method and get some accuracy.
Be interesting to see the comparison. I believe that Danny did the comparison when he did the DIY and there was not too much difference between the two procedures.
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  #22  
Old 02-23-2007, 04:12 PM
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It would be nice if the gap in the ring was alot smaller perhaps I will put a piece of plastic or somethin in the ring gap and mark the center. The ratio seems to be pretty high. The first time I aligned in middle and it was ~7 the second time I aligned with leading edge and it was like <1. Lot of error there.
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  #23  
Old 02-23-2007, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
It would be nice if the gap in the ring was alot smaller perhaps I will put a piece of plastic or somethin in the ring gap and mark the center. The ratio seems to be pretty high. The first time I aligned in middle and it was ~7 the second time I aligned with leading edge and it was like <1. Lot of error there.
You can only go in one direction. If you pass the mark by the slightest bit, then you've got to go around again. Back it up just a hair and the crankshaft numbers are off by a mile.
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  #24  
Old 02-24-2007, 10:08 AM
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more info on the 190D 2.5

I had the heads off because of a sticky valve, did the valve job ( heads were planed) and replaced the IP gear.

have lined everything up per manual - tried the 2mm at 12 degrees, get two complete revolutions and about 1/4 past this get contact.

set it to 2mm at 11 degrees and same thing happens, i get contact after two complete revolutions.

Is there a firing order ??...could the trouble have started when the head was planed?
I have done this on a 300 and had no problem, so am struggling with the 190D.
Any suggestions???
thanks for all your help
doug
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  #25  
Old 02-24-2007, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by douginbmw View Post
i get contact after two complete revolutions.
That's a conundrum. Two complete revolutions of the crankshaft allows all pistons to reach TDC on both the compression and exhaust strokes and any valve contact would stop you cold during one of those two revolutions.

I'm at a loss.........
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  #26  
Old 02-24-2007, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Be interesting to see the comparison. I believe that Danny did the comparison when he did the DIY and there was not too much difference between the two procedures.
I got 4 degrees by doing both methods.

Scott
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  #27  
Old 02-24-2007, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott98 View Post
I got 4 degrees by doing both methods.

Scott
Thanks. More data to confirm that the alignment of the camshaft marks is a fairly accurate method.

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