Essential tools for the economical DIYer: please help! - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Phil · #31 02-23-2007, 11:54 AM

If you look under my name and then go to "all Posts" page 4 there are pictures of the valve wrenches with dimentions to make your own. I would post the pictures here but it just keeps saying that they have already been posted in the past. If the people running the site could tell us how to re post pictures it could help in new threads from time to time. Anyone know how to do this?

vstech · #32 02-23-2007, 03:22 PM

you could just link to the previous post thread # with the pics in them.
John

Phil · #33 02-23-2007, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

you could just link to the previous post thread # with the pics in them.
John

Cool! How do I do that?

That would really help.

hey_allen · #34 02-23-2007, 05:13 PM

Regarding the Craftsman 3 ton jack stands pictured earlier, they work fine on my 300SD, so I would imagine that they would be tall enough for your 240d.

On the subject of jacks, I am tight on space as well, but I find that a short wheelbase floor jack is extremely useful, especially when having to lift the whole front or rear end to do work.
It also is fairly compact, once you break the handle down, at least.
The steel version that I bought from Sears is a bit on the heavy side to lug around, but tossing it in the trunk isn't too much of a problem.

#35 02-23-2007, 05:25 PM

About seven years ago, there was a frequent poster here that went by "Deezel." He was an A&P Mechanic for an airline and a very experienced and knowledgable fellow. I suppose that an A&P guy is very careful by nature, at least I sure hope so since I have to fly on their planes sometimes.

Anyway, Deezel was sort of like the self appointed Safety Officer around here. Since he has apparantly not posted in a long time, I guess I need to jump in here as he would have.

If I insult anyone because you are already aware of this, I apologize, but I would rather run the risk of insulting someone than to stand by while someone gets hurt.

One should NEVER, EVER get under a vehicle that is held up only by a jack, ANY kind of jack! Either put the car in the air on ramps, or lift it with the jack and then place jack stands properly.

I also repeat what someone else so wisely posted recently, I think in this thread, NEVER use concrete blocks to support a car while you are underneath it. They can crush with no warning at all.

Again, if you already know this, don't be insulted, rather help to spread the word so that none of our Mshop friends end up hurt or worse.

Hope this helps,

PS: How was that Deezel, wherever you are? LB

toomany MBZ · #36 02-23-2007, 06:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

There is a couple of things about the jack stand business that are not at all clear to me and that I need to have clarified... If I need to get under the car in order to do fluid changes, obviously I do not need them, as my wooden ramps are extra safe and do the job wonderfully.
I'd feel less confortable under a car without wheels and supported by jack stands than under one with wheels standing on my 4" ramps...

However, I am under the impression that I cannot do without those jack stands in order to perform, for instance, work on the brakes, where I need to take the wheels off (and in such a case I wouldn't trust working on the car sustained by just the lifting jack. What is not clear to me is: how many stands do I need? In the case of brake work, for instance, am I supposed to work on just one corner with just one wheel off at a time, two, three or all four???
If I am bleeding the brake line, for example, how many tires do I need to have off at one time? I was under the impression that placing the car on jack stands meant taking all wheels off and having the car on four of those things... And believe me, I wouldn't feel at all comfortable getting under a car sustained that way!
So can someone please explain?

I checked the Sears website... are these the type of jack stands I should be looking at? (two 2-1/4 ton/4500 lb. capacity:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00950182000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Lift+Equipment&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

I've never used a pair... Where are those U-shaped tips supposed to connect under my car? I am concerned such a small contact area could very well damage its frame... or even worse cause it to slide off!

Rino

When bleeding brakes, you do not need to remove wheels. You do need to be careful about stand placement. Use jack stands after jacking up, place front stands under lower control arm. I use a floor jack under the engine crossmember, and said placement of stands. I keep the jack there too. I jack up rear under differential, and place stands under hole for jack point just in front of rear wheels. Under rear lower control arms is good too, yet you would need to jack car WAY up. 98% of the time I use two stands, should be okay for you. I have four stands, only used for removing all wheels at once. X-rotation that I don't do anymore.

vstech · #37 02-23-2007, 06:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

you could just link to the previous post thread # with the pics in them.
John

Essential tools for the economical DIYer: please help!
just right click on the # on the thread next to the title on the right, and copy link location, then paste it into a reply...
John

rino · #38 02-23-2007, 08:27 PM

Thank you all who have contributed your information and advice here... you have been immensely helpful!!!

I still have one concern:

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

When bleeding brakes, you do not need to remove wheels. You do need to be careful about stand placement. Use jack stands after jacking up, place front stands under lower control arm. I use a floor jack under the engine crossmember, and said placement of stands. I keep the jack there too. I jack up rear under differential, and place stands under hole for jack point just in front of rear wheels. Under rear lower control arms is good too, yet you would need to jack car WAY up. 98% of the time I use two stands, should be okay for you. I have four stands, only used for removing all wheels at once. X-rotation that I don't do anymore.

I was having a private exchange of messages with someone very knowledgeable from this forum over a year ago, and I remember him (it just came to mind after reading your post) clearly warning me to be extremely careful when using jack stands under our cars (he too had a 123-chassis 240D). He mentioned that our car frames were not engineered to be sustained by jack stands, or something similar to that amount... Are you aware of this weak-frame issue concerning the 123 chassis and is your advice given in this post taking them into proper account? The last thing I want to do is damage the frame of my car by the inappropriate use of lifting devices...

I would much appreciate some reassurance in this sense.

By the way, is X-rotation of the tires not advisable, in your opinion?

Thank you so much...

Rino

rino · #39 02-24-2007, 07:09 AM

Also, I would appreciate some pointers on where I'm more likely to find a good price on brake pads (should I get 8 of those right away before taking down the wheels or wait after inspection and decide then how many I need? What brand should I get, if it makes any difference...) How much brake fluid (DOT 4, right?) do I need for fluid replacement and bleeding?

Thanks!

Rino

Shorebilly · #40 02-24-2007, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

Thanks, Larry, for the input. However, your new information makes complexities grow even further... I was thinking of a retired, old man to assist me during the brake-bleeding procedure (he doesn't look like a Mr. Olympia...) Besides, if what you were referring to is the vacuum provided by the vacuum pump to the brake booster, the bad news is that the vacuum system is faulty in my car, at least partially. For instance, it does not work on doors... however, it is still capable of shutting off the engine (it is still the action from the vacuum pump that does it, isn't it?)

So, what do you suggest now, given the circumstances?

Rino

Although I have not completely read this thread through....you question the need for a power brake bleeder.....you also mention that parts of your vacuum system are not working.....a MiteyVac with the brake bleeding attachments may be in order.......the MiteyVac is essential in vacuum system troubleshooting, and it can also be used to bleed your brakes.....

Also, as I have stated in other threads.....check out your local Pawn or Hoc shops.....you can find good deals on tools there.....

Check out the "Gearwrench" sold at NAPA and other places.....basically a conbination wrench with a ratcheting box end.....I have found these tools to be very helpful, and almost a necessity in changing Glow Plugs.....

You should also check into a reasonably priced Volt or Multimeter....the folks at "Radio Shack" can show you several, and should be able to advise you as to which will suit your needs (also can be used on many household repairs).....

a set of Metric Allen wrenches (usually go from 1.5 thru 10mm)....and a 14mm (9/16 will work) allen wrench for removal of your Rear (Differential) End Oil Fill Plug.......I personally prefer the ones with a ball looking long end, good for removing allens in tight and offset areas.....

An impact driver set.....especially if you have no air tools.....

a couple of small wire brushes.....

Depending on what you intend to do, you would need 3 different torque wrenches to cover all of the torque values in the MB manuals.....just get them as you need them.....

That is just a few things that have not been mentioned thus far.....

SB

Shorebilly · #41 02-24-2007, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

Also, I would appreciate some pointers on where I'm more likely to find a good price on brake pads (should I get 8 of those right away before taking down the wheels or wait after inspection and decide then how many I need? What brand should I get, if it makes any difference...) How much brake fluid (DOT 4, right?) do I need for fluid replacement and bleeding?

Thanks!

Rino

Takes just about a full Liter/Quart of brake fluid.....

Personally, I would look at my brake pads first.....unless you are having some brake issues, noises, pulling, pulsations, etc......

I use the best grade of NAPA brake shoes.....

Don't forget the parking brake shoes that are inside of the rear disk...!!!

SB