DIY tune-up for the original MB calipers... - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Phil · #16 03-03-2007, 02:43 PM

I haven't had to do my rear brakes yet but I have rebuilt calipers on other cars and the biggest thing is just take your time and don't force things. Calipers are usually supposed to float so they stay centered and if your brakes are wearing on one side more than the other I would suspect that the caliper is sticking on it's slide pins and not floating. I would check this first to be sure they are not rusted in place. I have not looked at the rears so its possible they are not supposed to float and if that is the case then this does not apply.

Mister Byrnzoil · #17 03-03-2007, 03:09 PM

theres a junkyard in jessup MD that always has 5-10 w123s and they crush their cars regularly, so theres lots of fresh meat. I found a good RR caliper and rotor on the 2nd car I looked @...

hardest part was breaking the rusty lug bolts free.

rino · #18 03-04-2007, 01:27 PM

I did the fluid change this morning, using the method suggested by Larry Perkins: it worked like a charm on all wheels, so it means no problems with the brake lines. I first emptied both sections of the master cyl reservoir and filled it with new fluid, then did the wheel sequence as he suggested. At first the dripping was slow (gunky stuff came out) on each wheel, then faster as the liquid cleared. It took about 1 hour to do the complete process.

I took out the old pads and was about to move the cyls in the calipers around, as suggested by Larry... but noticed that the rubber rings from the calipers (the ones that push on the pads) were worn out unevenly on both rear calipers... this causes the pads to push against the rotors at an angle, therefore wearing the pads at an angle... So these calipers either need to be rebuilt or I need to get a different pair...

What's your take guys, does it make sense to get my calipers rebuilt locally (by some local professionals) OR should I just dispose of them and go ahead and get a different rebuilt pair? Throwing away the ones I have to get a rebuilt pair seems a big waste to me: why not having mine rebuilt? And it should save me some money too... What do you think of it?

Thanks,
Rino

aklim · #19 03-04-2007, 01:28 PM

Don't they usually ask for the cores with calipers?

rino · #20 03-04-2007, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

Don't they usually ask for the cores with calipers?

I have no idea... I was planning to get them from a place online... I called them on the phone, they told me the price and availability... there was no mention of cores... By "cores" do you mean to return the old ones in exchange for the rebuilt ones?
I am very new to this, so please explain...

Rino

t walgamuth · #21 03-04-2007, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil

I haven't had to do my rear brakes yet but I have rebuilt calipers on other cars and the biggest thing is just take your time and don't force things. Calipers are usually supposed to float so they stay centered and if your brakes are wearing on one side more than the other I would suspect that the caliper is sticking on it's slide pins and not floating. I would check this first to be sure they are not rusted in place. I have not looked at the rears so its possible they are not supposed to float and if that is the case then this does not apply.

what you describe is a floating caliper. on a 123 the calipers are fixed and so have cylinders on both sides of the disc and the caliper is fixed, whith no floating on the pins. and no pins.

tom w

aklim · #22 03-04-2007, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

I have no idea... I was planning to get them from a place online... I called them on the phone, they told me the price and availability... there was no mention of cores... By "cores" do you mean to return the old ones in exchange for the rebuilt ones?
I am very new to this, so please explain...

Rino

By "core" I mean a unit where the casing is not cracked of something really FUBARed on it. That way they can take the piston out and rebuild it. Now if your piston is cracked or broken, they might consider that a bad core. Like when I get a reman trans. I have to send them my old broken trans. HOWEVER, if the case were cracked, you are SOL. They will take the internal parts and put new clutch packs and clean it out, etc, etc. So, Lets say I get a trans for $4000. They will tack on another $1000 in a core charge. My Visa Bill just became $5000. When I send them back the old trans and they find it in suitable condition, they will credit me the $1000. Same with an engine. If the crank is cracked or the block broken, they deduct what they think it is worth from the core charge they tacked on. That way, you return them something they can use. Otherwise, if you trashed the trans, engine, alternator or whatever, they will have nothing to rebuild.

rino · #23 03-04-2007, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

So, Lets say I get a trans for $4000. They will tack on another $1000 in a core charge. My Visa Bill just became $5000. When I send them back the old trans and they find it in suitable condition, they will credit me the $1000.

Got it... I checked the seller's website again, and they do have a $10 core charge on that item... What I don't understand is, it's going to take at least that amount to ship the old caliper to Pennsylvania... and who is going to pay for the shipping? You know what I mean... Heck, I'll find out tomorrow.

Thanks,
Rino

aklim · #24 03-04-2007, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

and who is going to pay for the shipping?

I'm replying to that guy right now. If you go to the bathroom and look in the mirror, you will see him too.

deerefanatic · #25 03-04-2007, 06:59 PM

OK, first off, you can get a rebuilt caliper at AutoZone for $75 with warranty and you can physically hand them your old caliper across the counter for covering your core charge, thus no shipping cost.

Second, you said that the "rings" that push on the pads are worn unevenly and causing your pads to push crooked? That is BAD as that means that your pistons have rotated. The pistons are SUPPOSED to not touch the pad in a perfect "O" shape, more of a "C" shape with the open part pointed straight away from the body of the caliper.... This is to keep water from pooling inside the piston seating surface.....

But, it's no big deal, as you can rebuild the calipers as I did, and like I mentioned previously, I would recommend trying as doing it may save you some serious dough and even if you mess it up, they will still be good as cores when you buy your rebuilts.

deerefanatic · #26 03-04-2007, 07:01 PM

Oh, where are you located? If you live near Southern MI, I'd be happy to help you rebuild em.....

#27 03-04-2007, 07:01 PM

No special tools or experience need to rebuild the calipers. It's just not worth the time and effort to do it.

I rebuilt the front calipers of my TD. I'd rather pay for already rebuilt replacements than do it again.

deerefanatic · #28 03-04-2007, 07:11 PM

Well, whether it's worth it or not depends on how broke you are!!

Rebuild kit: ~$13 each vs $75 each. = $244 savings...........

That'll buy ya some power mods!!

larry perkins · #29 03-04-2007, 07:27 PM

were the pads worn down to the metal? if so you may be all right with a new set of pads,there isnt much stroke on the cylinder piston, you may have a usable caliber,did you see any evidence of leaking brake fluid?
larry perkins

Phil · #30 03-04-2007, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

what you describe is a floating caliper. on a 123 the calipers are fixed and so have cylinders on both sides of the disc and the caliper is fixed, whith no floating on the pins. and no pins.

tom w

Thanks for the info. Do you know if the 126's are similar?