DIY tune-up for the original MB calipers... - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

winmutt · #1 03-05-2007, 06:40 AM

Where were you quoted $300?

rino · #2 03-05-2007, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

Where were you quoted $300?

About $150 each x 2 = $300...

I remember seeing several places with about that price (for new) on ATE and Bendix.

Rino

rino · #3 03-05-2007, 07:47 AM

You can find it right here (I just found it and am happy to share it), with accurate descriptions and plenty of self-explanatory images:

http://www.astrosafari.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=6;t=19210

It is not specific to our calipers, but the principle and steps are nearly identical...
It shows you how the right mental attitude and a little creativity can take you a long way...
I would definitely do it if I had an air compressor and accessories at this time.

Caliper rebuilding is really easy, even for a beginner, when someone who has done it is willing to share their know-how and help others, as the guy who wrote this tutorial demonstrates. And I suspect the same is true for every fix imaginable relating to our old MB diesels. All we need is people with a true desire to help one another in this forum...

Rino

Brian Carlton · #4 03-05-2007, 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

Caliper rebuilding is really easy, even for a beginner, when someone who has done it is willing to share their know-how and help others, as the guy who wrote this tutorial demonstrates. And I suspect the same is true for every fix imaginable relating to our old MB diesels. All we need is people with a true desire to help one another in this forum...

Rino

You've offered a reference for a floating caliper with a single piston and no heat shields. The rebuild of the floating caliper is a walk in the park as compared to what you have on the Mercedes.

For all others reading this post, rebuilding M/B calipers is not easy, even when someone has done it many times. It's a tedius and frustrating job, usually made worse without the proper tools.

I've done it several times and will probably purchase the front calipers completely rebuilt if I do it again. The rears are somewhat easier without having to deal with the heat shield.

rino · #5 03-05-2007, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

You've offered a reference for a floating caliper with a single piston and no heat shields. The rebuild of the floating caliper is a walk in the park as compared to what you have on the Mercedes.

For all others reading this post, rebuilding M/B calipers is not easy, even when someone has done it many times. It's a tedius and frustrating job, usually made worse without the proper tools.

I've done it several times and will probably purchase the front calipers completely rebuilt if I do it again. The rears are somewhat easier without having to deal with the heat shield.

OK, thanks for the clarification... So doing it with our calipers is a bit more complicated. There have been others in this forum saying that they have DIYed their caliper rebuilding for their MBs and that it is not at all complicated... Maybe it is to some and not to others... My point, though, was to commend the good intentions of someone like the guy who took all the time to write that tutorial with a genuine desire to help others and to say that that type of mental attitude is also a very precious asset in a forum like this one.

Rino

deerefanatic · #6 03-05-2007, 08:49 AM

This is a link to the caliper repair kit for the front Bendix caliper for my 82 SD.... http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/022406/quote.jsp?header=http://www.***************/header.txt&footer=http://www.***************/footer.txt&partner=buymb&year=1982&product=N1050-30632&application=000047560&clientid=buymbparts&cookieid=20I155P2O2150ISTY1&baseurl=http://www.***************/

Your car should be about the same price. That kit does 1 caliper.... So you'd need two kits..... Maybe the other's you've seen online are a set, for both calipers? That'd be about right price-wise.....

But, what you're saying about the funny wear pattern....... I think Tom W is right, you've got something else going on.........

rino · #7 03-05-2007, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deerefanatic

This is a link to the caliper repair kit for the front Bendix caliper for my 82 SD.... http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/buymb/022406/quote.jsp?header=http://www.***************/header.txt&footer=http://www.***************/footer.txt&partner=buymb&year=1982&product=N1050-30632&application=000047560&clientid=buymbparts&cookieid=20I155P2O2150ISTY1&baseurl=http://www.***************/

Your car should be about the same price. That kit does 1 caliper.... So you'd need two kits..... Maybe the other's you've seen online are a set, for both calipers? That'd be about right price-wise.....

But, what you're saying about the funny wear pattern....... I think Tom W is right, you've got something else going on.........

I mean, did you read Brian's post? He scared the hell out of my caressing the idea of doing it myself perhaps in the future... I wasn't gonna do it at this time anyway and if necessary I'll go for a rebuilt one... I think that the price that was quoted to me (at pepboys, if I remember well) was 29.95 for ONE caliper, but I might be wrong... PP has one in their catalog for rear ATE at $22.50 (one caliper)...

If Tom W is right, then I should hold the rebuilts purchase and try to understand what the heck is going on instead...

Rino

aklim · #8 03-05-2007, 02:38 PM

If you really want to do it, I suggest you first get yourself an MB caliper and give it a whirl. I wouldn't do it on my daily driver. that way if we help you out and find out that it is FUBARed, you aren't walking. If you can get it working, do another one. Sell it as a pair of rebuilt calipers. I would never tell someone to do something like this on their daily driver. Getting the piston out with shop air is easy. All you have to do is find a garage or some place with shop air that will let you use it for a bit. I have been known to borrow tools and what not.

rino · #9 03-05-2007, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

If you really want to do it, I suggest you first get yourself an MB caliper and give it a whirl. I wouldn't do it on my daily driver. that way if we help you out and find out that it is FUBARed, you aren't walking. If you can get it working, do another one. Sell it as a pair of rebuilt calipers. I would never tell someone to do something like this on their daily driver. Getting the piston out with shop air is easy. All you have to do is find a garage or some place with shop air that will let you use it for a bit. I have been known to borrow tools and what not.

Definitely... That will happen when I'll need to replace my current rear ones with a pair of rebuilts, so I can play around with them and risk screwing up. In the meantime perhaps some good soul here will post the step-by-step tutorial for MB calipers, obviously making sure he/she adds the due warning and caveats to the instructions... We do not want to overlook safety issues in any way...

Rino

deerefanatic · #10 03-05-2007, 06:16 PM

Well, Let me tell you this, I have been running on those rebuilt calipers for over 24,000 miles and have had ZERO, (0) problems with my brakes.. In fact, I have had some serious hard emergency stops and never had an issue. And yes, I installed the heat shields without the tool. Did I get exactly .004 inch setback? Probably not. But I did set them back and at my last check, they are firmly in place and shielding the rubber bellows effectively.....

But, if you're not confident in doing it then DON'T! Whether you succeed at a job is more dependent on your confidence level then your skills and tools. If you're determined, you won't stop till you succeed.

rino · #11 03-05-2007, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deerefanatic

Well, Let me tell you this, I have been running on those rebuilt calipers for over 24,000 miles and have had ZERO, (0) problems with my brakes.. In fact, I have had some serious hard emergency stops and never had an issue. And yes, I installed the heat shields without the tool. Did I get exactly .004 inch setback? Probably not. But I did set them back and at my last check, they are firmly in place and shielding the rubber bellows effectively.....

But, if you're not confident in doing it then DON'T! Whether you succeed at a job is more dependent on your confidence level then your skills and tools. If you're determined, you won't stop till you succeed.

You see, you have my same attitude toward learning and doing, Matt... which I totally appreciate. On the other hand, there are others here who are concerned about the obvious safety issues involved. My opinion is that no one should be afraid to publish DIY tutorials here if they make sure to warn about the potential dangers inherent to the various procedures... Doing otherwise, I think, means to restrict unnecessarily the purpose for which all of us take part in this beautiful forum and make it what it is.

Rino

spugeddy · #12 04-16-2008, 04:31 PM

Holy crap batman...

What was the result after all this for the original poster....

I face the same issue, although i am leaning toward repair kit due to $$$.

What is the issue with the heat shields..... I think I could handle the rest mechanically?

SirNik84 · #13 04-16-2008, 06:00 PM

I didn't see this posted in the thread thus far, so here you go.

http://catalog.worldpac.com/mercedesshop/sophio/quote.jsp?clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&cookieid=2CB0VK7FH2CJ11T8R4&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&partner=mercedesshop&year=1979&product=N1050-70213&application=000403568

thats the link to the rebuild kit from Fastlane.

rebuilding the calipers is easy. I used a air compressor to eject the pistons. changed the seals and used a pair of channel lock pliers to reinstall the pistons. very easy and strait forward.

using the air compressor is kinda scary the first time. i took a piece of scrap plywood and stuck it between the pistons. and then put another piece of plywood over the whole so that the pistons didn't fly across the shop. then used the air blower nozzle with the rubber tip and stuck that in the port for the brake line. they pop out with a loud bang. keep your fingers out of the way. once they are out clean them with break fluid. clean the caliper with brake parts cleaner and a small wire brush. then clean it with brake fluid. install the rubber square cut seal into the bore in the caliper, and then coat that with brake fluid. then install the piston. using break fluid as lube. only use break fluid, other lubes will not react well with break fluid later on. installing the pistons will be tight. this is where the channel locks come into play. once the piston cups are back in then attach the rubber dust covers, and then the heat shields. it takes about an hour to rebuild both calipers. maybe 2 if you really take your time, which is a good idea on the first time thought. i found it very worth wile. 13 for the kit and i bought calipers from the junk yard for 12.99 each. so 25ish a caliper and then another 10 bucks for brake fluid and brake parts cleaner. you have a new set of calipers for 60 bucks. not bad.

Lexxani · #14 04-16-2008, 06:37 PM

I have done mine (fronts on my 107) and they came out great. . here we go. . .

get the rebuild kit (see link above for a picture of the parts), and get hoses, dont be cheap, it will only be a pain in the azz later. . .
you'll also want to get some shop towels and a couppla cans of brake cleaner, once again dont be cheap, get two or three, trust me. . .

1) Remove hose from line
2) remove caliper (2 bolts in back, I forgot what size they are)
3)take the caliper away from the car (brake cleaner and paint dont mix)
4) remove the hose, throw it out. . .its probably bad (mine were 30 years old)
5)Take a nail or punch and knock out the pins that hold the brake pads in place (I took my caliper halves apart using a breaker bar and an impact socket, this is not advised because it can cause sealing issues, in my case I didnt encounter this problem. I only learned of this afterwards so I feel I must include this)
6) to remove the piston take two large screw drivers and pry it out by placing the screwdrivers on equal sides of the piston (essential for ease) It worked fine for me, but if you have compressed air that is ideal.
7)replace piston seal and remove old dust cover external seal if it didnt come off earlier
8) lube piston seal with clean brake fluid for ease of installation
9) install dust cover and metal cover (new)
10) reinstall caliper
11) Bleed out air and replenish brake fluid with new

This is how I did mine on my 107 about 7 months ago. . I Learned MB brake systems. .dead easy, if yours isnt corroded behind the piston, your set, you DO NOT need a reman unit, remember the ATE calipers use very tight tolerances, if your metal finishes look like new, your set if they are corroded they will stick and not be functional. . .replace the rubber and you'll be golden. . . PM me if you have any questions, Ill be happy to assist. . .

spugeddy · #15 04-16-2008, 06:52 PM

I don''t seem to have a sticking issue or frozen caliper.

I think the seals are just worn out.

The caliper is ATE. My brake pads are about 15K new.

I am leaning toward repair kit....

I am a decent DIY, done Brake MC, Radiator, hoses thermostat, sterring coupler, shocks, all fluid changes, body hardware r&r, plus much more I am forgetting, plus brakes on other cars, just not this one yet....