oil in turbo intake - rebuild? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rcounts · #16 10-29-2008, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

The air intake oil accumulator drain valve may be plugged with sludge.
check valve MB# 6170180029
#62 in the attached picture.
The part claims to be NLA.
But, it is the exact same valve used inside the vacuum pump three times.

Have a great day.

So if this valve plugs up the separator will fill with oil, overflow, and foul the turbo, huh?

What if the oil return tube from the turbo is crushed to say, half (or less) of its original inside diameter right above the oil pan? Would it back up and cause pressure from the oil line to the turbo to blow the oil seals out of the turbo?

I ask because that is the condition this SD engine was in when I got it. I swapped my turbo onto it because all the oil in the turbo made me nervous about the seals, but now I'm wondering if maybe it is OK after all. The oil was all around the intake side of the turbo BTW...

Not meaning to hijack the thread, and hey, at least my questions are related to the OP's questions

bgkast · #17 10-29-2008, 06:31 PM

Test the play in the suspect turbo's shaft. It is likely OK.

Cr from Texas · #18 11-21-2008, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

The air intake oil accumulator drain valve may be plugged with sludge.
check valve MB# 6170180029
#62 in the attached picture.
The part claims to be NLA.
But, it is the exact same valve used inside the vacuum pump three times.

Have a great day.

Alternate part numbers available? Can this check valve be cleaned or must it be replaced? I know there is a thread that details how to replace the valve and the required ring (available?) but if the parts are not available what do you do?

Here's my details: Oil leaking out from the filler cap area. I replaced the cap and gasket twice with no improvement. Updated style breather tube from the valve cover to the oil seperator get blown off unless I use a stronger clamp at the valve cover. Oil pools in the air cleaner. I've removed the aircleaner and tried pouring oil down the return tube. I flows through slowly (1 quart of clean oil took 30 minutes to flow through). Is that slow enough to be causing back pressure in the venting system? I'm taking it apart tomorrow to reseal the oil seperator. But if the check valve is partially plugged I may just make matters worse. Anything I can put down the return tuble to flush it out (when doing an oil change)?

whunter · #19 11-21-2008, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Alternate part numbers available? Can this check valve be cleaned or must it be replaced? I know there is a thread that details how to replace the valve and the required ring (available?) but if the parts are not available what do you do?

Here's my details: Oil leaking out from the filler cap area. I replaced the cap and gasket twice with no improvement. Updated style breather tube from the valve cover to the oil separator get blown off unless I use a stronger clamp at the valve cover. Oil pools in the air cleaner. I've removed the air cleaner and tried pouring oil down the return tube. I flows through slowly (1 quart of clean oil took 30 minutes to flow through). Is that slow enough to be causing back pressure in the venting system? I'm taking it apart tomorrow to reseal the oil separator. But if the check valve is partially plugged I may just make matters worse. Anything I can put down the return tube to flush it out (when doing an oil change)?

I am seeking a supplier for this valve...
This procedure takes the least time, and has never failed to resolve the drain issue.

Option:
#A. You can buy a Vacuum Pump Repair Kit MB# 0005861723 and use one of the three valves from it.

#1. Drain engine oil
#2. Remove the lower oil pan
#3. Remove the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube for tank cleaning
#4. Remove the check valve retainer, and check valve
#5. Ream out the upper oil pan nipple that attaches to the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube
#6. Replace the O-ring on the upper oil pan nipple where it attaches to the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube
#7. Install the check valve and check valve retainer
#8. Install the CLEANED air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube
#9. Install the lower oil pan
#10. Install the NEW engine oil...

whunter · #20 11-21-2008, 10:42 PM

Option:
#B. You can try cleaning a used vacuum pump valve, and swap it out.

#1. Drain engine oil
#2. Remove the lower oil pan
#3. Remove the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube for tank cleaning
#4. Remove the check valve retainer, and check valve
#5. Ream out the upper oil pan nipple that attaches to the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube
#6. Replace the O-ring on the upper oil pan nipple where it attaches to the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube
#7. Install the USED check valve and check valve retainer
#8. Install the CLEANED air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube
#9. Install the lower oil pan
#10. Install the NEW engine oil...

whunter · #21 11-21-2008, 10:44 PM

Option:
#C. cleaning the existing valve in place.

It is winter = cold at the moment:
* Heaters can set off an explosion from these fumes, enough to kill, maim, and/or level your garage...
* You do NOT want to breath these toxic chemicals as a vapor/mist.
Danger:
Toxic and flammable vapor mist, work outside or blow the vented air outside.

You can try this if the valve is partially plugged:
Note: there is an O-ring at the bottom of the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube (at the upper oil pan, behind the turbo drain tube) that will probably need to be replaced before you proceed.

#1. Drain engine oil
#2. Remove the lower oil pan
#3. Put a funnel in the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube

#4. Pour one pint of fresh engine oil through the drain tube, use a watch to time how long it takes to drain, WRITE DOWN THE TIME !!!

#5. Use two NEW CLEAN drain pans, one to catch the cleaning fluid, one to catch recycled cleaner after it is filtered through a clean sock.

#6. Spray or pour carburetor, throttle, brake cleaner into the funnel in the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube.

#7. Repeat cleaning over several hours or days as needed.

#8. Danger: Toxic and flammable vapor mist, work outside or blow the vented air outside. Use light air pressure in the top of the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube to flush out the cleaner, catch any sludge in a rag filled pan for disposal.

#9. Pour one pint of fresh engine oil through the drain tube, use a watch to time how long it takes to drain, WRITE DOWN THE TIME !!!

#10. If you see a massive improvement in flow through time, either repeat cleaning or stop, and reassemble the engine with NEW oil...

Cr from Texas · #22 11-21-2008, 11:07 PM

Hunter,
Thanks for the options. Did you see this post in another thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/122057-617-engine-replacing-oil-separator-check-valve-upper-oil-pan-post2027580.html

a member occasionally sprays 1/2 can of carb cleaner down the drain tube and then changes oil. I see where this could be a real explosion hazard unless this is a cold oil change. Other than explosion danger, what else could go wrong? This would be the fastest approach.

It does drain at least partially. I put a quart of new oil down the tube by keeping it full and it took about 30 minutes.

whunter · #23 11-22-2008, 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cr from Texas

Hunter,
Thanks for the options. Did you see this post in another thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?p=2027580

a member occasionally sprays 1/2 can of carb cleaner down the drain tube and then changes oil. I see where this could be a real explosion hazard unless this is a cold oil change. Other than explosion danger, what else could go wrong? This would be the fastest approach.

It does drain at least partially. I put a quart of new oil down the tube by keeping it full and it took about 30 minutes.

IMO this is not a good idea.
Contamination of the crankcase = X-amount of the sludge, cleaner etc, will remain in the oil pan, in the oil pump pickup area.
Removal of the oil pan is fast, and simple.

Procedure #A fixes the issue for 5 - 20 years depending upon engine condition.

Cr from Texas · #24 11-22-2008, 12:42 PM

That was my concern also - thanks for the confirmation.
I'll need to check my parts and make sure I have everything including a new pan gasket. I started taking the old vacuum pump apart to check out those check valves - guess I need to research a thread on that also.

Cr from Texas · #25 11-24-2008, 06:25 PM

I didn't have an oil pan gasket and I was in the middle of replacing my air cleaner mounting bracket (that bottom bolt is a PITA!) so the top of the tube was open and I decided to try an option D.

I filled the tube with clean oil (I was a quart low anyway) and observed that it was draining slowly. My hand held vacuum pump also has a pressue port. I used a one hole rubber stopper of the right size to fit the top of the tube. Began pumping up the pressure slowly. At about 10 psi, the pressure dropped quickly. I added the rest of the quart through the tube without ever seeing it at the top. I'm assuming the clean oil with a little pressure flushed out whatever was partially blocking the check valve.

I also removed, cleaned, and sealed the top of the oil seperator unit.
Drove about 30 miles today. Air cleaner has no oil around the filter and I didn't pop off the breather tube.

I still plan to get an oil pan gasket and do the job properly.

Hunter has a poll in another thread about how willing people are to drop the oil pan. I only have one issue with doing it. Mine is currently not leaking so I hate to break a good seal.

Cr from Texas · #26 11-24-2008, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Option:
#C. cleaning the existing valve in place.

It is winter = cold at the moment:
* Heaters can set off an explosion from these fumes, enough to kill, maim, and/or level your garage...
* You do NOT want to breath these toxic chemicals as a vapor/mist.
Danger:
Toxic and flammable vapor mist, work outside or blow the vented air outside.

You can try this if the valve is partially plugged:
Note: there is an O-ring at the bottom of the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube (at the upper oil pan, behind the turbo drain tube) that will probably need to be replaced before you proceed.

#1. Drain engine oil
#2. Remove the lower oil pan
#3. Put a funnel in the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube

#4. Pour one pint of fresh engine oil through the drain tube, use a watch to time how long it takes to drain, WRITE DOWN THE TIME !!!

#5. Use two NEW CLEAN drain pans, one to catch the cleaning fluid, one to catch recycled cleaner after it is filtered through a clean sock.

#6. Spray or pour carburetor, throttle, brake cleaner into the funnel in the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube.

#7. Repeat cleaning over several hours or days as needed.

#8. Danger: Toxic and flammable vapor mist, work outside or blow the vented air outside. Use light air pressure in the top of the air cleaner oil accumulator drain tube to flush out the cleaner, catch any sludge in a rag filled pan for disposal.

#9. Pour one pint of fresh engine oil through the drain tube, use a watch to time how long it takes to drain, WRITE DOWN THE TIME !!!

#10. If you see a massive improvement in flow through time, either repeat cleaning or stop, and reassemble the engine with NEW oil...

I did notice when gathering parts, there were three brake cleaner products available at the local Pep Boys. One is based on nonflammable tetrachloroethylene. That may be a safer choice in terms of explosion hazard but still not totally safe as that active ingredient is toxic and on EPA's possible carcinogen list (not available for sell in California).

jt20 · #27 11-24-2008, 09:34 PM

if there is no plastics or polymers that will come in direct contact with your stream, fuse xylene. It is much cheaper in non aerosol form and proves useful every now and then. Not exactly stuff for your baby to play with, though.