300D turbo manual trans swap problem#1: Pilot Bearing Shatters Inside Crank - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SW · #1 03-10-2007, 01:41 PM

Hey Fellas,

I was installing a brand new pilot bearing into the 617 turbo crank when all of a sudden, BAM! A segment of the outer race cracked and popped off. The rest of the race is almost flush with the surface of the crank that the fly wheel bolts. It looks like I was about 3/16" from bottoming the bearing inside the crank. Any ideas on how to get the rest of the bearing out? My day is ruined, but there always my mud toy to work on.

Thanks

Shiran

#2 03-10-2007, 02:12 PM

It sounds like you were trying to force it into the crank unevenly.

You don't necessarily have to have a pilot bearing puller to get
the pilot bearing out.

First, find a deep well socket with an O.D. slightly smaller than the hole
through the pilot bearing. Then fill the inside of the socket with duct tape
and also wrap the outside of the socket with duct tape, so that the
socket just fits snugly into the bearing. Fill the void in the end
of the crankshaft behind the pilot bearing with some cheap wheel bearing
grease. Place the socket into the pilot bearing hole and hit the end of
the socket firmly with a hammer until you feel the socket hit the crankshaft.
Each time you hit the socket with the hammer, the hydraulic action of the
displacement of the thick bearing grease pushes the pilot bearing outward a
bit. Once the socket hits the crankshaft, remove the socket and refill the
void behind the pilot bearing. Repeat this process until the pilot
bearing is free.

SW · #3 03-10-2007, 05:15 PM

Thanks Lance, but the hydraulic method only pushed out the inner race with the ball bearings. I think it's time to go to Home Depot and find a small cut off attachment for the die grinder.

Mustang_man298 · #4 03-10-2007, 10:43 PM

There is a bearing puller tool out there made by several different manufacturers, basically is a J-hook with a tang on the side. You hook the tip behind the bearing, hold the end, and strike the tang with a hammer, working around the bearing. I know MAC makes them as that's where I got mine. I have done the hydraulic method on some before in the past, had some that wouldnt go no matter what as well, and used an acetylene torch very very carefully to slice the old part out of the crank (not a novice level job) Once I finally got the tool it has paid for itself many times. I can get you the MAC number tomorrow if you want.

SW · #5 03-11-2007, 09:27 AM

If you don't mind, please post that MAC tools part number. I tried my el cheapo Harbor freight slide hammer with hooks and I broke the hooks after a few blows. I could not find a small diameter cut off attachment for my die grinder, so I might try a grinding stone this afternoon.

SW · #6 03-11-2007, 10:34 PM

The outer race is out. I used a heel bar to pry it out. I stuffed a 15mm socket into the crank bore so that the heel bar had something to pivot on. This swap is taking too long, but I'm learning alot.

Gordo · #7 03-17-2007, 12:20 AM

I had this problem too. I had to pry the berring apart, so the inner race came out then use a dremmel to cut the outer race. What a PITA! I ended using a brass pilot bushing in place of the OEM berring. IIRC the bushing is for a Ford. I had to turn it on a lathe and decrease the OD just a bit to get it to fit in the crank. I know it soungs a bit "getto" but... so far so good. Good luck.