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EGR question (on goes the '93 300D 2.5 saga)
Now I have a question about the EGR:
When a local MB indy mechanic suggested the other day that to keep the air intake clear of soot (it had just recently been cleaned before I bought the car) I should disable the EGR, I said, right, put a BB in the vacuum line. He says no, I have a better solution. I'll have my machinist make a metal plate to completely block off the EGR from the intake. I agreed to have him do that. When I pick up the car, it's completely gutless. Essentially like a non-turbo (and this car was fast before), on hills you not only have to floor it but you have to kick down into third gear, and it still won't go really good. When I take it back, he says: oh, we'll have to look into the electronics. It looks like something is wrong there, bad diesel injection controls.... The whole thing seems really fishy to me because the car was running really fast before this, and each time he gets his hands on something he has to "look into" it tends to cost 1 grand +. So I started wondering if maybe the electronic controls of the intake/injection might be thrown off by this metal plate and not be functioning correctly anymore. Usually if you disable the EGR you get better power and better mileage, right? But I've never heard of anyone putting a metal plate in the intake like that. What are people's thoughts about that... And btw, I sorted out the supposed valve noise and smoke and skipping idle. It was the injectors. They were completely bad, and the seals bad as well. As someone else wrote here recently, the injector noise can really mimic lifter noise. I could have sworn it was a lifter/lifters...So this is running great now, all the mystery smoke and skipping after about 2 minutes after cold start is gone....
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1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD 1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver) 1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD 1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50 |
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That vehicle has a computer controlled EGR system. If you block the EGR, the airflow will change and the computer will disable all boost. There are a couple of work arounds in the archives. Read this thread carefully. It's got everything you need: Low Turbo Boost Last edited by Brian Carlton; 03-10-2007 at 05:09 PM. |
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Thank you very much. This was very enlightening! (And reassuring that there isn't some major electronic problem with that car!)
I will eventually figure out whether I go with the ways around the turbo shot-off that are described there. For now I will simply take the plate back out and have a car with turbo boost again. Anyone with a 601/2/3 on here who runs it on VO or biodiesel? Do you find that the intake gets crudded up less on biofuels? Quote:
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1974 240D, 125K mi, B100 now, SOLD 1980 300TD, 115K mi, 4-speed stick, roll-up windows, greasecar with two tank conversion (daily driver) 1985 300D, 220K miles, greasecar with two tank conversion, SOLD 1993 300D 2.5turbo, 158K miles, green/tan, B20-B50 |
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So what I get from this thread and the one Brian Carlton kindly pointed out, is that to disable the EGR on a 602/603 with the EDS you have to either make a circuit (which has the potential to leave the turbo full bore at failure) or get a pressure operated wastegate, which there isn't one for the 1992 300D?
I don't like option 1. Or option 2. Have I missed the point? Is there an easier way? Please, oh Mercedes deity, let there be an easier way.....!
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock. 1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles |
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I have hopefully answered my own question - put an air breather on the EGR intake - see
93 300D 2.5L EGR Experiment
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock. 1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles |
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I would think that's the only way without major modifications. Unless the boost control is taken out of the control of the computer, there really isn't any way of tricking it into thinking the EGR is functioning properly....unless there's a way to trick it into thinking less air is flowing than there really is.
Maybe building a bypass of the airflow meter controlled by the EGR circuit would work. It would think EGR gas is flowing by the reduced amount of airflow through the sensor. And maybe dumping it back in pre-turbo would fool it enough. But then you have to deal with that blasted butterfly valve... I don't have the time, money, or the will to modify my car to that extent to be the guinea pig for this experiment however Edit: Geez, we thought of that at the same time...how weird Edit again: And wouldn't an air breather tube post turbo just leak boost like crazy?
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Dale http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g1...MG_2277sig.jpg 1990 300D 2.5 Turbo -155k 2000 E430 - 103k 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Ecodiesel 4x4 - 11k 2014 VW Passat TDI SE - 7k Bro's Diesel 2006 E320 CDI - 128k Pop's Benz Pre-glow - A moment of silence in honor of Rudolph Diesel |
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Brian, Yes, you are correct. In my excitement I spoke too soon. The EGR needs pressure from the exhaust manifold to get air into the intake.
Still no easy solution I can see. Are we sure EGR is not short for EGRegious?
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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter 1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock. 1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles |
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I thought so. That solution works fine for the 2.5L n/a vehicles, but, with a turbo, the pressure would just force boost right out of the valve..........the computer would fault that in two seconds.
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