I know this is an old post, but it is high in the "Drip Timing Threads" list, so many run across it.

What a long discussion (from a few), before any hands-on. Those that actually turn a wrench will find (as mentioned many times) that the IP port closes rather abruptly. When open, you can squirt fuel out the #1 delivery valve (innards removed), using the hand pump. When it closes, the squirting abruptly stops. It probably goes from 1 drip/sec to 0 drip/sec in 0.5 crank degrees. If you want to locate the exact point of 1 drip/sec or 0.05 drip/sec, whatever have fun. It isn't easy to bump the crank 0.5 deg (and you can't back up).

You don't even know the ideal setpoint anyway. I changed from 24 deg to 27 deg and didn't notice the car ran much different. Advance is better, as long as you don't get a rough idle. Ideal changes w/ fuel, so are you going to change it each time you try a different fuel? Have fun. Main thing is to verify you aren't delayed (<24 BTDC) from chain stretch.

When I first did it, I fussed with the silly drip tube shown in the manuals. Now I just leave the tube off and look at the fuel dribbling out of the delivery valve. Same result either way. On the same token, I never needed the special crooked wrenches to adjust valve timing. I just use a Craftsman open ended wrench and one from a Harbor Freight set, and can work thru the injection tubes. Ditto for most of the special tools shown in the manual, either from my M-B or old Chryslers.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans

I did not spell check the following:
There is a difference between checking the timing and setting the timing.

When you check the timing you turn the Crankshaft to the standard timing BTDC range on the Compression Stroke setting and look at your drips from the Drip tube (someone needs to be puming on the Hand Primer to keep the pressure up or you number of drips is going to be off). If you don't get the right amount of drips then I think you should stop right there and go about setting the timing.
If you are just curious to see how far off you are you can try to turn the Crank till you get the number of drips and then look at the Pointer and see what degrees on the Crank Damper it points to. But, as you said nudging the Cranshaft like 1/2 of a degree is going to be a PITA.


To set the timing your you pick what degrees you want BTDC on the Compression Stroke after that the Crankshaft is stationary and you are going to rotate the Fuel Injection Pump (note you are not rotating the Crankshaft to get the timing but rotating the Fuel Injection Pump to time it to the Crankshaft) till you get the proper number of drips (while someone is pumping the Hand Primer to keep the pressure up).

For the above paragraph mark the Pump Flange and Block if there is no mark so that when you rotate the Fuel Injection Pump you can return it to the same spot if there is some issue.
When rotating the Fuel Injectiion Pump the Fuel Injection hard Lines should all be removed and you are just going to Rotate the Fuel Injection Pump a tiny fraction at a time. If you don't do that as stated you will bip right past the sweet spot.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Yes a lot of time has elapsed since this thread started. I think it is now getting closer to when these cars enter true antique status.

The ones still surviving may get better treatment as well. I see them almost in general as the most simple cars still in daily service on an age related basis for many.

Listings on ebay for 123s on sale are now way down. When this thread originated there where almost thirty or more always for sale on that venue alone.