First step at this point is to get a good battery in it.

Take yours out and have it charged for 8 hours somewhere or install a donor battery that will turn it over quickly. Jumping probably won't help enough.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

[QUOTE=natelienn;1471009]. And the oil situation.. when I originally checked the oil level, there wasn't even a mark on the dipstick, it was completely gone (except the scraping oil on the sides). So I know the oil was all the way down but there was still residue on the sides, so it may have had a little left. , QUOTE]

The fact that there was no oil on the dipstick does not mean that all the oil was gone. The dipstick does not measure all the oil. It just measures the top XX%. Since you put in 5 quarts and overfilled it, there had to have been oil in the engine.
This doesn't mean that the engine was not damaged but it does mean that you can't draw conclusions as if the engine was completely out of oil.
I agree that you need to put in a new or recharged battery. You could also try to pull start it. But you need to check the fuel flow and glowplug system before making further attempts. Once you know you have fuel and glow you can rule them out as causes for the no-start condition.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Something else to try, after removing ALL drive-belts to things like AC, Power-steering and the fan/alternator, is to remove the glow-plugs and squirt 20 mL fresh motor-oil in each hole, leave to stand for a day, then spin over to blow out excess, then re-fit glow-plugs. This would at least get some lube up to the pistons which could have run a little dry, if the oil level was low...

When looking into the oil-filler cap when someone turns the engine on the key, Does the cam-shaft turn??-

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

since you have overfilled the oil i would take some back out to get the oil back between the marks. search for runaway diesel and read some of thoes posts about overfilled oil. if it does start again i am sure you would want it in running order.

__________________
-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto

I was definitely planning on removing the excess oil but i think someone told me to fill it up more to get it recirculated in the engine. I haven't checked if the cam is moving yet, it's back at home and I am at the library. I will check and repost. The AC was never connected, there are only the necessary belts. I will disconnect them and see what is not turning.

What is the device that has a belt on it and is in front of the IP? Maybe it's power steering? It is on the right side if you are looking at it from the front. That is what I am putting a socket on and turning (yes, clockwise). When I turn that, the bottom one that the belt is also connected to won't turn. I hope this helps.

I will re-check the fuel/ glowplugs and do the oil squirting..

I'm pretty sure the battery is good. It's brand new from when I bought the car and is getting 12.89 voltage when not in use. It is a Les Schuab battery though and I've had trouble with three different les schuab batteries in the past. I would rather not buy a new battery if this one is fine only to find out my car will never work again. I'd like to rule out all other options first. I will recharge it again though. I did, however, recharge it all night before I tried starting it again so it should be at or near top voltage.

May I suggest finding someone to actually look at the car with you before you start following all the advice here and "doing the oil squirting..." and other things. Everything suggested may be good in certain situations but it sounds like you have a unique situation. Seek help from a reputable source, maybe a local forum member or mechanic? Don't make things worse and don't listen to everyone on the interweb.

__________________
1981 300TD - SOLD
1981 Euro 300TD 4 sp. parts car
1982 300 SD - SOLD
84 300 TD 4 sp n/a 241K - SOLD

It's not at all unusual to have the belt slip when trying to turn over the engine with the power steering pump. That's not a good measure of whether the engine is seized or not.
The advice to get help from an experienced forum member is reasonable.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Isn't he close to Brandon?

__________________
-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto

If there's someone here that would like to visit and help me out, by all means please do. I could trade for your service a meal or whatever.. If not, I could always post pictures or record video/sound, anything that might help. I am going home now to check if the cam is turning

I opened the oil cap and looked inside while the engine was cranking. The cam shaft is turning, all the belts and everything is turning, but the engine is making a horrible scraping/screeching sound, maybe best described as squeeking. I don't know how to explain it. It's still only partially revving like the battery is almost dead, it will just rev like that continually, making the horrible noise and wont start.

The engine itself or something else? Does the sound occur when it is just the engine being cranked, no belts attached? If so I believe you have a dead engine.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I find it hard to believe 2quarts low would cause an engine to die. Did you turn the engine by hand?

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Don't these engines need to turn at some minimum speed to be able to start? Could it be that the starter cannot overcome a seized accessory and turn the engine fast enough to start it? Heck, maybe you have two problems at once -- the screech and a dead glowplug system.

Belt-driven accessories have been known to seize, and when they do the drive belt slips on the pully and produces an awful sounding screech (ever hear a screech from a car as it turns? That's a loose power steering belt. Think louder and constant). If you haven't tried already, try removing the belts for all the accessories like others have suggested and see if the screech remains when you turn it over. If it is gone, grin a lot -- only the water pump & alternator are critical, and those are replacable if needed.

__________________
'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

Just thinking out loud....

Cant understand apart from accessories like WP alt. and A.C/Power-steering, what would make 'Squeek/scrape' noises from an engine. Im sure there Must be things though--Ive had all manner of nasty scraping and screetches and the like from belt-driven devices on engines, Especially Alternators when the bearings collapse!.....

Remove ALL BELTS from the engine, just to humour us and try again--Wont take long and dead easy....

I wonder if it may be the Transmission. Is the car a Manual shift?--I had a clutch-cover give trouble a while back, and there was a part sticking out catching the bell-housing. Caused a hideous noise.....

Guess a similar thing could happen if the torque-converter 'cover' (That pressed-steel part intended to duct air over it) came loose and did something similar, or even an internal seized clutch/brake-band/bearing...

__________________
http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg

Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....

Well, I finally got some time and removed all the belts. This seemed to help it, but it is still not starting. I recharged the battery all night and tried to start it again but no luck. It seems to be revving faster and at a more consistent rate. Also the squeeking is gone, but I tried moving every accesory with my hand and they are all turning easily.

What seems to be having trouble turning is the bottom wheel/gear/cog, It's right below the fan. Is this the transmission? (sorry I've just started to learn about cars since last year.) It's very hard to turn by hand, and when the belt was on and I tried to use a wrench to turn it by turning the power steering pump, the belt would slip and it wouldn't turn. Back when my car was functioning and I was doing the valves, it would turn easily (well, with a little effort). Now it wont turn at all by hand. It does turn when someone is cranking the starter though while I look at the engine.

The engine seems to be revving like it wants to start but is starved of fuel or is too cold. So I know what you're thinking.. could either be glow plugs or fuel. Glow plugs should be good; I just put in the new glow plug retrofit kit from dieselgiant.com and they are brand new so I will worry about those last. Fuel side however: I pumped the primer pump and saw fuel coming through the mini filter and I also saw it flowing to the IP through the clear hose in front of it. Should I pull the injectors and see if it is not getting fuel? What are the signs of a failed IP? Thanks for all the help again