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Just bought a 300TD - what to do first?
Got what I consider a good deal on a 79 300TD. Especially considering recent prices for these, I would say I got lucky. Still, you get what you pay for and there is MUCH to be done.
Mechanically it seems to run very well. Put in some BioD and hope to flush out some gunk. It's only had 2 owners before me, so that was a positive. Still there are some mechanical things that should be done (but aren't urgent problems), such as addressing- upgrade fuel lines, filter get the horn working recharge the ac vacuum for the door locks isn't functioning front window needs a new seal and a slight pull to the right antenna motor These all seem like reasonable issues that can be resolved quickly. Or am I wrong? There is also some rust, but not in the frame, jack points, or floor. The rust is bubbly under the paint beneath the front window, in one spot along the side trim, and beneath the rear window there is a small hole (just under the seal). The car was painted a few years back, not a great paint job. But will that hold the rust from progressing? Or should I patch the hole, and fix the other spots soon? I am in Los Angeles, and it likely wont rain for 10 months, so.. Other things are mostly interior/cosmetic. It's kind of a mess. Needs work on DS seat, rear carpeting is done, all the carpeting could use a deep cleaning, headliner someday could be replaced. Going to take it to Mr. MB Monday to have a good once over and take care of some of those mechanical issues. Hopefully nothing else comes up! But, what about this rust thing? Any urgency in that? Oh yeah, it has the Becker cassette radio. So nice - but the cassette player doesn't work! |
#2
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#3
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Ahhh, welcome to the wagon world. Does the hydraulic rear suspension seem to be working OK?
Most of the stuff you mention is no big deal at all. The rust..... that is a big deal. You will want to hop on that fairly quickly. Oh, and we require pics...... ![]() **I am assuming you have a wagon, since that is what "TD" means. I just re-read your post, and the "rear window" reference now has me wondering. **
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" ![]() '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#4
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Definetely a wagon! A dream car for my wife and I. Lots of work to be done, but its a sweet ride!
I will post some pics sometime soon. I've got a nice spot in mind for a photo-shoot. Yes, it seems I've caught some sort of disease. Good to know I am in the normal-zone as far as repairs. The rust I will definitely take care over the summer. Of course, in LA there is plenty of time to dry it out! |
#5
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The locks is a no-brainer, just did mine. well checked it and found a leaky one, which I am too cheap to replace since there is still enough vac to activate and undo all the locks twice (open-close-open-close)
Change the fuel filters-easy and you might get a performance boost. Remember to change your fuel filters about 2-300 miles after you run the bio-D through.. or as soon as you feel it getting plugged up (you probably will feel it) change your oil and have a good look at it. as for the pull to the right... keep in mind that you are probably causing some extra wear to your tires by riding on it this way. the rest of the stuff, not much I can say about them. I would keep a very close eye on all your fluid levels to get a feel for the car. Maybe even clean up the undercarriage really well and then park over some white cardboard... get to know your car ![]()
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1985 MB 300D/T Fell off the WVO bandwagon when people started trying to charge $2.50 a gallon for dirty vegetable oil. |
#6
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Door lock vacuum actuators can be repaired with a scrap of rubber glove and the adhesive used for repair of wet suits. It's written up in the archives here.
Steve |
#7
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Don't worry about fuel lines/bioD unless they're already leaking. I've run up 30k miles on our TD on bioD without changing lines. If necessary, smooth the shift with a Bowden cable adjustment and tighten up the fuel linkage so you're getting all the pedal.
They're great outfits! Congrats. Kimball |
#8
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A '79 model is not going to have a Bowden cable....... ![]()
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" ![]() '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#9
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Hey. Thought I would post a pic. From the PO, but it serves as a nice intro!
Tomorrow heading to Tarzana to see Enrique and get some prelim. work done. Interior is a mess, but my wife and I (yes she's in on it too!) are ready for the long haul to get this ride back to a classic condition! Last edited by GreenMedallion; 04-15-2007 at 11:18 PM. |
#10
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I see from time to time where yall's spousal apparatus actually likes these cars, and that is so foreign to me. We had an hour and ten minute commute to the wife's family gtg yesterday, and the wife would have no part of taking the wagon or the Squash for the trip. That is probably best, as I would have had 2 hours and 20 minutes to listen to her complain.... ![]() Oh wait, she did complain, only about other stuff..... ![]() ![]()
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT ![]() 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" ![]() '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#11
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Sadly not the original color. It is a 10 - looks good from 10 feet. Paint job is rather poor, and about 6 small rust issues on the body (frame is completely clean otherwise). I am planning to knock out some prep work this summer, and get it re-painted in its original color. I have all the original manuals and receipts for work done that the original owner kept from 1979-2000! In there I found the original factory receipt that states the color is 904 dunkelblau (dark blue). That rust/paint work is on top of the priority list, other than taking care of the mechanical issues I noted above.
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#12
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Welcome to the world of wagons...you can checkout anytime you like but you can never leave....
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#13
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awesome! your luggage rack has the horizontal bars! cool. none of mine have them... too bad you have the bunts installed on yours. if you want to go back to steels and need a set, I will be parting out my 78 D soon... (I keep saying that...) John
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#14
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Have you checked or cleaned leaves and stuff from under the hood hinges yet? On my '80 300TD the drain holes got plugged and resulting rust caused the hinge attachment to come adrift. I'm using a stick to prop up the hood until I can rebuild the sheet metal to reattach the hinge. Also I'm told the area under the battery tray often gets rusty. Steve
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#15
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Welcome, GreenMedallion! Glad to see another normally aspirated TD on the board, an even more select "club"
![]() I've got a few rust spots to take care of once things warm up and dry out here. I'd like to do a lot of the prep work myself and then get it repainted at some point. Ditto on cleaning the leaves and dirt out from under the hood. I had a fair amount of crap built up in there but fortunately it hadn't started to rust yet.
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![]() 1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15 '06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod) |
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