Sorry, it's not a specific diesel question...but most of the past key questions seemed to be posted on the diesel board...maybe we are just more "involved" with our cars than the gassers?

Anyway, the local locksmith wants $55 to duplicate my key. From the seach function it seems that about $30ish is more appropriate. Is this the norm?

1984 190D. Has the laser cut type key. But my car has two different keys so the dealer says someone has changed one of the locks and if they order a key from the VIN there is no telling which key will be duplicated or if either key will match. It's possible all the locks were changed.

I think only the ignition was changed since both doors and truck match. The glove box I have not made work yet but it also has the same size skinny key. Cut only on a single edge on each side.

The ignition is a much wider key that is cut on both edges on each side. So my guess is that this was replaced at one time. Did the laser cut keys change from skinny to wide and I have an early style and new style both on my car?

My plan is to order a key from the dealer and see which key shows up and then see about getting the odd ball key duplicated at a locksmith.

But still, is $55 a bit high for a laser cut key?

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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5

Since all the other locks match I would bet that the ignition lock tumbler was changed. You can always order another ignition lock tumbler to match the VIN which would then match your door key and you'd be all set. I believe they even come with a key and are not all that expensive ($50-$60) or hard to replace. I'd say if you order a key for your car's VIN all you will receive is a key that will fit only the doors.

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Marty D.

2013 C300 4Matic
1984 BMW 733i
2013 Lincoln MKz

Hmmm, sounds like a great idea actually. If MB sells a tumbler with key for a specific VIN for 50-60 bucks. Then that really solves everything for cheaper than the locksmith. It will cost me $55 for each key from the lock guy and I still have two keys needed to operate the car.

Better to go back to one key that matches the VIN #.

Can MB parts dept really order a tumbler matched to the VIN#?

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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5

When I replaced my tumbler it was the same as the old one ... all my old keys worked. It did also come with new key matched to my VIN as well.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

I just did this with my 300d and 300SDL. T

The "D" had a replacement tumbler from one of my parts cars because the original one had crapped out and, the SDL only had one key. So I went to the dealership and with the vins, ordered a replacement tumbler for the "D" and a couple of sets of keys and, a couple of sets of keys for the SDL. Total bill was about $240 and most of the expense was the SDL's keys.

Now, everything has the right keys and there are duplicates...just in case.

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Never a dull moment at Berry Hill Farm.

Good luck getting a tumbler and key to match your vin for $40/$50 from the dealer. Dealers here are ripping $125 range for the matching vin , tumbler and key. May be better or worse in your area. Good luck in resolving your key issue. It would be great if we could find a dealer somewhere that would do this at a reasonable price.

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1982 240D Euro Stick 4

I can't recall my tumbler price (can look it up) but I did order a key seperately once and I am almost positive it was less than $20. This was for the 87 300D.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Checked my records: I got a VIN specific key done at MB of Wilmington (Del.) for $16 in Jan. of 2005. About a year later I got the tumbler with key from Leiztinger Imports (MB dealer in State College, Pa.) for $88. I buy most of my stuff from MB of Wilmington. I don't usually find that I'm sickened by the prices. I know everyone says the dealers are way too expensive, but for most of what I order (small stuff), I'm not that put out by their tags. Maybe they somehow have better prices here. I know I could always do a little better, but the simplicity of going to the familiar parts counter is sometimes worth the extra. They know me and my car.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Don't most dealer parts counters sell parts at full MSRP as set by the manufacture? Mercedes or Mazda, Ford or Ferrari. Dealer prices are usually pretty standardized. So what one MB dealer charges for a key or tumbler, most any MB dealer should be charging the exact same...at least that's my assumption.

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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5

that hasn't been my experience. i've seen at least a 15% difference in parts prices between various dealerships.

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1973 280 - Current Project Car
1979 240d - 100% Stock
1982 380sl - 100% Stock
1985 190e 2.3 - Heavily Modified

$55 is high. I just got two for mine, through the local dealer, and he had to get them from MB in TX. $24 each. I gave them my VIN and credit card # over the phone, and showed them the registration (registered to me) when I picked them up (kinda glad they won't sell VIN cut keys for my car to just anyone who asks ).

The master key will fit all locks on the car: ignotion, doors, trunk & glovebox. The Valet key will only work in doors & igntion, and I'm not even sure if it will fit in the trunk/glovebox locks.

If your mater key for ignition doesn't fit one of the above two scenarios, then a VIN cut key is probably a bad idea as there's a good chance it won't work.

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

The proof of ownership requirement came out several years ago. Ex-wives, pissed off girlfriends or boyfriends (depending on your choice in the matter) were ordering keys and stealing the vehicle. The proof of ownership directive actually came from the feds. I ordered new keys for my 240D and 300D, had to show the title. And I worked at the dealer.

Played with the keys some more...

The ignition key is wider and will not insert into any other lock.

The door key is thin and will not insert into the ignition. Neither will it insert into the glovebox. But it does work the trunk. And it worked the passenger door, but so far one time only.

It's kinda like the thin door key I have is a "valet key" but then it should not work the trunk or should it?

I guess I should just get a dealer cut key for the VIN and see what I have first and then proceed further.

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1987 300TDT
1981 VW MKI Caddy 1.6 diesel, waiting on engine swap
1983 D-50 Power Ram 4x4 "Mitsubishi" 2.3 turbo diesel
assorted gas powered crap and motorcycles

RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5

I have the same issue in my "new" car. The ignition does not match the rest of the locks. A VIN coded tumbler is around $60 from the two dealerships I have ordered them from. One (the newer style) came with a key and one (the older pre '79 style) did not. The key costs half that, so I would just buy the tumbler. Takes about 20 min to swap it out.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

The dealer will cut you one for less then half that. Go with your vin and order one.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200