help with ebay wagon in tallahassee - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

joeblack · #16 05-21-2007, 10:32 PM

After two days of sitting with kerosene the compression of the #3 cylinder went up to 210 not great but better then it was.

I have corrected the return line from the IP, the former owner had tied them together with a T ???
The inlet and return are now going into a bottle, no filters are attached. I have used clear lines to be able to see the bubbles.
The hand pump works good and after 20 pumps no air-bubbles are coming form the return line.

When I crank the engine with the injectors removed fuel is dripping / sputtering from the hard lines. It seems to be even over all 5 lines.
I have connected 2 injectors from a running car to the hard lines of cylinder on and two in the hope that i could see a spray pattern.
No fuel is coming out of these two injectors. The other disconnected lines are dripping / sputtering fuel.

I have cracked the injectors / line before ( with all "new" injectors attached) and fuel is nicely leaking out of the union.
The thought arises that the IP pressure is to low? as what winmutt already suggested.

I do not like to spend money on another IP since i do not know the real condition of the engine nor do I like to pull the IP of the running car.
I would love to hear some diesel sounds whatever bad out of this engine to determine where to go next.

Is there any way of getting more insight in the pressure of the IP?
Is it possible to hook up an oil filled pressure gauge to an injector line and get a pressure reading.

Is there anybody on the forum in this area? State College PA

Appreciate your help.

Johan

winmutt · #17 05-22-2007, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by joeblack

After two days of sitting with kerosene the compression of the #3 cylinder went up to 210 not great but better then it was.

I have corrected the return line from the IP, the former owner had tied them together with a T ???
The inlet and return are now going into a bottle, no filters are attached. I have used clear lines to be able to see the bubbles.
The hand pump works good and after 20 pumps no air-bubbles are coming form the return line.

When I crank the engine with the injectors removed fuel is dripping / sputtering from the hard lines. It seems to be even over all 5 lines.
I have connected 2 injectors from a running car to the hard lines of cylinder on and two in the hope that i could see a spray pattern.
No fuel is coming out of these two injectors. The other disconnected lines are dripping / sputtering fuel.

I have cracked the injectors / line before ( with all "new" injectors attached) and fuel is nicely leaking out of the union.
The thought arises that the IP pressure is to low? as what winmutt already suggested.

I do not like to spend money on another IP since i do not know the real condition of the engine nor do I like to pull the IP of the running car.
I would love to hear some diesel sounds whatever bad out of this engine to determine where to go next.

Is there any way of getting more insight in the pressure of the IP?
Is it possible to hook up an oil filled pressure gauge to an injector line and get a pressure reading.

Is there anybody on the forum in this area? State College PA

Appreciate your help.

Johan

The IP pressure was pure speculation but I would think that pulling an injector and turning the enine over would show if there was enough pressure to pop the injector.

joeblack · #18 03-24-2010, 10:40 PM

It has been a while but finally got enough courage to pull the IP. The old IP occasionally squirted some diesel through the injector which gave me the impression that the fuel rack did not move. Some post mentioned this and this car had run almost unmodified on veggie in the original tank (the fuel lines are clogged up now) Removed the ALDA to get direct access to the rack actuators inside but it did not solve the problem.
Had another IP form Ebay but it got damaged during shipping. One of the three bolt slots was deformed and the full load vacuum switch broke off.

From the old pump I removed the fuel shutoff and rack damper to get access to the lower bracket screw.
That screw is no fun. Got the pump out without removing oil filter housing or oil lines.
Then the confusion about the IP timing started.
The drip method 24 degree on crank pulley.
The missing tooth mark on front of the IP
The locking tool mark at 15 degree.

What a mess and this is only the static timing.
Why three methods and three different marks?
Made a locking tool and noticed that the missing tooth mark and locking tool mark are at a different location and got confused why an engineer at MB would do such a thing.

Reading on the forum could not find an explanation and wanted to push on so used the missing tooth and 24 degree mark the the drip test after that.
Used a 9 psi electric fuel pump and lowered the spring pressure from the regulator in the fuel return line. Cranked the engine with injectors outside the engine to see the spray pattern.
Was I happy to see all injectors spray , a sure proof that my old IP was not good.
I was more curious if this puppy was going to run and how then how accurate my setup was.

Installed injectors and checked glow plugs, replaced two.

Car had been outside since thread start and the glow relay was shot.
Replaced with spare, cranked it and then tightened the injector lines and......it fired.
Smoked a bit, let it warm up a little and then cracked each injector to hear how much effect this had on idle. All cylinders showed the same drop.
It is promising.

Next week I will reinstall the drive shaft, check the brakes and see what she does on the road.

Thanks everybody on this forum to keep motivated.
Later J

bobodaclown · #19 03-24-2010, 10:49 PM

congrats. keep us updated.

barry123400 · #20 03-25-2010, 12:07 AM

Did you look inside on your old pump? If so was there much accumulation? We have been assuming vegetable oil is ruining the pistons and bores of the injection pumps.

Maybe instead they have so much junk in them the delivery valves will not seal properly or even the entrance ports to the elements are blocked up. If this is the case a good soaking in laquer thinner internally might clean everything up.

We just do not know how the junk acumulates in there if it does. We need to learn a little more so we will know if some situations are reversable.

I feel too much water in the vo might tear the metal in the bores and pistons. On the otherhand it may not.

With that much going on in the fuel supply system I would expect the rings to be gummed up a little. This should be adressed in my opinion. Both by soaking them down with miracle mystery oil and perhaps a treatment in the base oil. you might get some more compression back. I think the vegatable oil gumming has to be treated. Otherwise it just may coke with time if in the ring lands.

joeblack · #21 03-25-2010, 07:14 AM

I will for sure look inside that old pump and find out. I am curious to see for myself the result of veggie oil. I will post pictures by that time. Yeah, the compression numbers did not sound to exciting but after all it odo meter shows 250000. Nevertheless it fired right up and runs evenly.

I will first get the drive shaft mounted and run it of milk jug in the front, the original tank is not pleasant to look at.

It will take a couple of weeks since I have a trip scheduled to India.
They even might have IP rebuild kits over there for cheap. May be I haveto check that pump before hand.

Later J

vstech · #22 03-25-2010, 09:24 AM

lemme know if you need a fuel tank, i've got a parts car TD.
I have that buddy in PA gonna come pick up a car from me soon, so he could bring it to you.
could pull the lines too, since yours are gummed up with crud.
I'd pull the injectors back out, and fill the cylinders with marvel mystery oil. let it soak while you are in india.
then blow out the mmo before you put the injectors back in. drain and refill the motor oil, and re-test your compression.
are you still using a gasser CT? (it's been 3 years ya know...)

smiffy6four · #23 03-25-2010, 09:29 AM

Wow, you've got a Citroen DS! Those are so cool! Not fun to work on, but very cool. I remember changing a starter on one while in England, it was a knuckle scraping job. But, the ride is fantastic in those cars.

joeblack · #24 03-25-2010, 10:08 AM

Hi vstech,
Could be a good plan, where is your buddy going to in PA?
How much for the tank and lines. Is your parts car parts because of rust or accident. Please PM me.

The citroen. yeah nice ride. knuckle breaker, I thought so but after my MB IP exchange I think they are evenly matched, what a pain. Only the citroen is a lot more tech for a 1950 design with leveling and "steering" headlights.

Later J

vstech · #25 03-25-2010, 10:17 AM

he works near the school you mentioned at the beginning of the thread. lives in altoona.
it's a parts car because the engine died.
looks like a rust free vehicle. silver paint, palomino interior. 60/40 seat. no third row.

joeblack · #26 03-25-2010, 10:23 AM

That is close by.
Does your buddy has space for two vehicles to bring back, assuming you want to part with it.
You have some pics, history, still complete?
I have another good engine out of 300D.

Later J

vstech · #27 03-25-2010, 10:29 AM

pm

joeblack · #28 03-25-2010, 10:59 AM

vstech, thanks for the help.

Later J

joeblack · #29 04-26-2010, 11:00 AM

Ok, the continuing story.

Reassembled the drive shaft and moved car forward backward for a one foot to check if gears were engaging. Works without delay, so their is hope.

Had no brakes, drivers side front leaking, removed wheel , No pads left, PO used to brake on steel shims as result rotor disconnected from hub. calipers shot. Wonder what this PO was thinking ?????
Got replacement parts and will install this week.
Also the one of the rear suspension spheres ( citroen) was disconnected (steel line cut).
The short link that connects the sway bar to the regulator is gone. What is about the correct length of that connection piece so that I can make a new one from a coupe of ball-joints I have left over.

Is the suspension hydraulic line thread and size style the same as the brake line connections?

Thanks for the help.
to be continued.

J

joeblack · #30 04-26-2010, 08:11 PM

Hello Folks,

Looking for hard line form regulator to hydraulic accumulator. can I use a piece of brake line for this? Does it have same connection / threads?

Thanks J