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#31
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Does anyone know the thread size and pitch for the banjo bolt?
I cant find a car that would have one in the junk yards around here. thanks
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1976 w115 300D |
#32
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Can I use the Mityvac as a pressure gauge to test this pressure?
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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold 83 300D Manganese Brown 109K 97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold 98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold 95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold 93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold 95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold 94 E320 White 127K, sold 85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold 84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold 99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease) 00 Honda S2000 Red (lease) 86 Mercedes 300E (sold) 84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold) |
#33
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Yes
The original MityVac
Specifications: Pump Displacement: 1 cubic inch (16cc) per stroke Max. Vacuum: 25 in Hg (85kPa) Max. Pressure: 30+ psi (207+ kPa) Gauge Indication: 0 - 30 in. Hg (0 - 100 kPa) |
#34
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Thanks, whunter, appreciate your updates.
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#35
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No.....
No, you cannot use the Mityvac to test modulator pressure. The Mityvac is not designed to accept oil internally and you'll destroy it.
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#36
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Pause
Quote:
#1. You must "T" into the VACUUM line going to the modulator valve for readings. #2. You must "T" into the PRESSURE line going to the ALDA for TURBO BOOST readings. #3. If you want to read transmission FLUID pressure, a different gauge and adapters are required. Here is your shopping list. W123 Modulator Adjustment DIY - measure it the 'right' way Please note: The gauge he used is ZERO to ONE SIX ZERO PSI. Have a great day. . |
#37
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Quote:
It is more than sufficient. Typical modulator pressures are in the range of 50 psi, as I'm sure you are well aware. |
#38
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Hmm
Quote:
A 0 - 50 would be OK in most circumstances. The 0 - 100 gives a nice safety margin. A 0 - 160 will be OK.. . |
#39
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Quote:
Quote:
I agree with his words although, clearly, they don't match his photograph. |
#40
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Quote:
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#41
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Answer
Quote:
There will be no turbo boost = a serious lack of power while you do this. . |
#42
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Im having trouble removing the modulator valve itself in my 82' 300TD. Do i need to drop the tranny to change it out or is there something im missing? The T key under the cap on the modulator will not turn. Ive tried lifting and turning and it still wont turn clockwise or counter-clockwise. I tested the pressure via test port and the pressure is only short <.2 bar off what the chart says. However Im still having a "klunk" during the 2-1 and a flair "klunk" from 1-2. 2-3 flairs and 3-4 does fine. Theres no "klunk" when I down shift 2-1 using the slap-shift. Ive redone the entire vacuum system except the modulator valve. I seem to have the correct amount of vacuum. Should I adjust the VCV? Thanks.
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#43
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Morning, new member in London, UK. Great thread, I just have one question for now. I have an '82 280TE. Is this procedure exactly the same even though it's a petrol engine? All the best,
Mike |
#44
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Answer
Quote:
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__________________
ASE Master Mechanic https://whunter.carrd.co/ Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 2003 Volvo V70 https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#45
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711.118 test port?
i have a 1981 300d and the modulator is red on the passenger side.
can;t figure out where the test port would be. back and to the rear are vague descriptions (is back to the drivers side or passenger or to rear of car?) there are several 12mm bolts and one 10mm around it. there is one 12mm close to the modulator that is towards the front of the car. it faces the same way as the modulator and is near the lower edge of the modulator towards the front. if anyone has a description for this transmission (722.118) would be much appreciated. thanks much |
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