but will they be cadium plated? ya know, to match


I did the rubber hose section fix. It's been holding fine for 30k...

Just go to the dealer and get the lines and the little grommets for the clamps. As I recall, the lines are less than $100 each so it's really not worth messing around.

The hose fix worked, temporarily, on mine until I got it home. But the problem I came across was the hard line is weakened and caused leaks in other areas such as the end fittings. This was due to vibration and the weight of the line being carried by the ends.

End result, a new, preformed hard line from the dealer was $50 and clamp replacement makes it good for another 300k.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

$50 bucks - holy cow that's cheap. I have an 85 300SD, but the Dealer quoted $145 and $148 for each line and $3 each for the Bushings. Either I need a better Dealer or that's a different part.

Fastlane Quoted this plus free shipping
112 997 02 81 Grommet $1.00
123 270 33 96 Hose Assy $112.00
126 270 11 96 Hose Assy $117.00

I have a couple of extra Mercedes oil cooler lines but I have no idea what model they're from. I do know for sure they're not for my 300D. I'd give them to someone if there was a way to identify them.

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

Yeah, I just had to repair mine too! I used a piece of steel braided fuel injection hose clamped to either side of the steel line where I cut the part worn through off. Then got another fastener at ACE hardware and looped that around the rubber hose to keep it in place! Working so far!

Another C note repair, damn those little $100 repairs add up, don't they!

I love it how MB has such good parts support. I tried to buy a parking brake cable for my sisters 96 Olds today, and the Chevy dealer was like your SOL. After they looked at me like I needed a part for a 1926 Caddy. GM doesn't make and stock parts for 20-30 year old cars like MB does!

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I've replaced one each on the 300D and 300SD...they run about 50 bucks each, including the new holding clamp with the plastic grommet. The worst part is getting them in without losing too much tranny fluid, but even that's not a big deal...I'd rather have the oil leaking out, keeping contamination away from the tranny.

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1998 W202 C230 - The money pit of late.
1984 W126 300SD (356,800 miles) Gone to the wrenchapart
1984 W123 300D Gone to the wrenchapart
1972 W108 280SE 3.5 (sold but not forgotten)
1986 Buick Grand National 3.8l Turbo (86k miles)
1966 Glassic Model 'A' Replica http://www.glassicannex.org

http://banners.wunderground.com/weat...Round_Rock.gif

Yup, yesterday I spent about $500 having a AC hose replaced (very slow leak) and some R-12 replaced. Last week (in NC) I noticed my AC was more cool than cold, the pressure was getting a little low.

I figure this is a good bump for members who haven't had their cars for long. This is a good item to check the next time you're changing your oil.

I was doing just that (changing my '85's oil) yesterday when I discovered lots of wetness aft of the passenger side oil pan area. Turns out the rubber around the line where it clips to the oil pan was gone and the line had been chafed to the point of leaking.

I did the temporary fix in which I cut the line with a pipe cutter and spliced in some rubber hose. I chose to use 5/16" which was a very tight fit. I had to boil the line briefly to get it to stretch over the metal line. The tight fit gave me some extra confidence. I couldn't pull it off by hand if I tried once it was on there. I then double clamped each end for insurance.

This will get me by until I can decide how to proceed.

While I was under there I replaced the mostly deteriorated rubber on the line on the driver's side at the oil pan to prevent the same thing from happening there. I used a bit of rubber that came with a handlebar mount for a bike headlight. Was a perfect fit.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

And by way of a pricing update circa Sept 2014, these lines are now listing at about $130/ea. Probably can be had for less, if you shop around. But if my patch seems to be holding up I may see if I can wait until another 300D shows up at the junkyard.

Also, at those prices, I'd say it's even more worth a measure of preventative maintenance to replace the rubber buffers.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

So how are people "replacing the rubber buffers"? Do you buy new clamps? Or insert some new rubber? What are people using for rubber; it would have to be thin...

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Mike Frederick
1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles

I got the rubber inserts from a dealer a few years ago- I don't think they were expensive. They have a little rim of rubber at each end- holds it in the clamp. Will install the rubber inserts soon, when I put in a new radiator and new flexible hoses connecting to the radiator. You could probably improvise something, but for me, the few dollars they cost didn't seem worth the time and effort spent.

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Marshall Welch
Seattle, WA
1982 300D-T

As noted the rubber buffer is available from the dealer for a few bucks.

In my case the clamp was damaged too so I'll have to replace that.

The rubber buffer from the other side was about to go too. I wanted to replace it while under the car so I improvised and used the rubber that comes with handlebar mounts for bicycle headlights. Worked perfectly.

As a side note I put about 250 miles on my patch since posting this including a 100 mile trip just now to Phoenix to catch a flight. All good so far. I'm posting from the airport!

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

There is a product called NiCopp Nickel Copper Alloy Brake Line Coil. You can bend it in your bare hands. My taurus needed both rear hard lines. Shops quoted more than $800 and said it would take an entire day. I bought 50 feet of the stuff for $75 and an elcheapo line bending tool (basically just a pulley wheel), a decent flaring tool for $30 and made my own hard lines. Two were 12' long and one was 5'. I ziptied the new tubing to the old lines as I went along bending my way to the end. No kinks, no problems, no leaks. This bending stuff is fantastic. I've used steel tubing and it sucks all day long. The whole job took about 5 hours.

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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900