I corrected the procedure above to reflect the proper way to do it. Proper means not spending almost the whole next day trying to figure out why your car doesn't run worth a dam. Basically, you should do as 2.5Turbo did - don't remove the stop lever. (I updated the first post to reflect that, so if you follow those instructions, you should be fine)

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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles

I just made that mistake and removed the stop lever and the hollow nut while trying to fix the oil leak around the shutoff lever seal. The shaft pushed into the IP with just enough poking out for me to grab a hold of. I was able fish it back out and put everything back together. As soon as I started the engine it went into WOT. In my panic I shut off the key which did not work. I then yanked out the primary fuel filter which stopped it after a few seconds. I did not remove the SOV as that was not the problem I was trying to address. I am guessing I now have to remove it to set the linkages right. I have found others that have had similar issues but no images or exploded views of how the SOV, handle shaft, and the IP linkages are hooked up.

I did straighten out the problem. Thanks to friend that brought over his old injection pump from an OM603. I did have a time trying to loosen the Alda. Instead I fashioned a little tool that loosened the difficult to remove T30 bolt.
I went down to Home Depot and bought their single 3/8" drive mounted T30 bit. I used my dremel to cut off the bit such that I had just enough hex shank left for me to get the box end of a 1/4" combination wrench on it. I wrapped some electrical tape around the bit so that the wrench would fit snug on it.
This way I could slide it in place under the alda and on the T30 bolt of the SOV.
I am posting a pic of this little modified tool so that it may help someone else.

It turned out that the lower arm of the shutoff cam had gotten on the wrong side of the ip rack (on the right side) . It needs to be on the let side of it so that it can push the rack to the right to shut it off by the action of the emergency lever or the SOV.

Thanks to all that posted on this form. It was invaluable.

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