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  #1  
Old 07-16-2007, 09:20 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Location: New Jersey
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Turn signal stalk replacement

Hi,

From searching the archives, I have seen that there are instructions on how to repair the turn signal stalk to stay in place, etc. However, mine has another problem - it will stay in pl;ace and then not snap back after the turn.

I assume my whole signal stalk assembly needs to be replaced to get this functionality back.

So, though there are instructions how to gain access to repair, how different is the work to remove and replace the stalk? Given that there is an electrical connector, I assume the disassembly is more copmplex to get it all apart and back together. Is it a DIY job? A Simple DIY job? A few hours on a saturday DIY job, or a 'replace your evaporator', I have to be crazy to attempt DIY job?

Thanks for any insight.

JMH

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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  #2  
Old 07-16-2007, 09:51 PM
Stevo's Avatar
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As I remember you just pull back the rubber boot and theres a couple (?) of screws and then unplug it. Its been a while since I replaced one but I think you will see when you get in there.
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2007, 05:14 AM
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I've got one a friend pulled from my '82. It'll have to wait till this afternoon tho.
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  #4  
Old 07-17-2007, 06:21 AM
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More than a couple of screws.....

You've got to pull the wheel to get to the mounting screws.

10mm allen, and don't crank against the steering lock.

I use a big pipe threaded thru the wheel to keep pressure off the lock, while I break loose the large bolt holding the wheel on. It's lock tited in place, so takes some grunt.

After that, easy, just pull out 3 screws, and unplug the connector under the dash to the left of the column. Need to remove the cruise switch and one wire clip on the combination switch and swap everything over to the new one.

Sometimes, a failure to cancel is related to the steering column not being centered. A sleazy alignment shop might have reset the steering wheel at some point to get it centered, vice adjusting the tie rod ends to center the wheel. This can throw off the cancelling pins on the steering shaft. Shaft and wheel should be match marked.

Jim
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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
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  #5  
Old 07-17-2007, 06:55 AM
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Intresting. Doesn't make sense to me why the wheel needs to be removed to get to this, but that makes it a no-go do a DIY such as myself - my luck generally so poor when undertaking something big, that I have given up for the most part on trying to do it.

Thanks for the heads-up.

JMH
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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  #6  
Old 07-17-2007, 07:10 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Central FL
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I respectfully disagree with Jim Freeh on this- he must not be talking about a W123 turn signal stalk. The basic removal of the combination switch is a 10 minute job. Two screws hold it to the column and you need to get access to the connector under the dash. I have done this at least 3 times and it's very starightforward . Maybe he's talking W126- I have seen those in boneyards and can't figure how in hades you get them puppies off.

If the cam position on the wheel is really the problem, that will require pulling and recentering of the wheel on its splines.

Rick
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  #7  
Old 07-17-2007, 01:45 PM
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I would know if it was the cam position on the wheel, wouldnt I??? If this was the case, theoretically if I turned the wheel one rotation in both directions from where I was when I set the signal, it would go off, right??

In every car I can think of, when the signal is set, you hear a clicking of the cam and the switch as the wheel is moved. No such luck here - no click, no indication, I could drive all day with the signal blinking...

Thanks!

JMH
__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2007, 02:14 PM
toomany MBZ's Avatar
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Location: central Va
Posts: 7,820
I just looked up the procedure in the SM, it says you do not need to remove wheel. Looks like you just need to pull the rubber piece on the column, remove two screws, and unplug the two plugs.
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  #9  
Old 07-17-2007, 02:28 PM
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Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
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Steering wheel does NOT have to come off on a W123.
There are 4 screws. 2 closest to the dash have to re loosened so that you can un-attach 2 wires that will stay in place. Sometimes they are slotted screws, sometimes Phillips. Loosen and pull wires from nip.
Then there are 2 Phillips screws closest to steering wheel. Also, two plugs under dash, then pull them through column when you remove stalk assy.
My wagon doesn't reset the stalk after a left turn, but it does after a right turn. I installed another stalk assy and it did the same thing. Did I just happen to get 2 with the same issue, or is that something else??
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Gone:
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  #10  
Old 07-18-2007, 07:02 AM
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thanks!

was the othr stalk new or used?

I assume there is a part on the steering itself that could go bad too, causing the reset to not work. I wonder how one gets to that. Seems strange that youd have the same problem twice, unless you got a bad used one...

JMH

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
2008 ML320 CDI (199k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)
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