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  #1  
Old 07-18-2007, 09:47 PM
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my sisters 82 300d wont start

i am visiting up north. she bought a converted wvo.

i replaced the the battery, it had a lawnmower batt. in it. it sounds like it wants to start. it seems it is a fuel delivery issue.

what are some simple, initial starting tricks? i.e-priming, letting plugs stay on extra long, etc.

starter sounds strong, batt is a large diesel one

thanks

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82 300d turbo 164k - passed on
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  #2  
Old 07-18-2007, 10:16 PM
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Could be a number of things. first, make sure it is primed and all the glowplugs are working.
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  #3  
Old 07-19-2007, 12:12 AM
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Sarting

Check the filters, or just change them.

Check that you're not trying to start on cold WVO.
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  #4  
Old 07-19-2007, 12:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by estod View Post
Check the filters, or just change them.

Check that you're not trying to start on cold WVO.
I've been starting on cold WVO all summer,,, in fact I quit thinning it out with gas, just 100% WVO.

Sounds like the car prol needs a valve adjustment,,, try plugging in the block heater to add heat. When the valves get tight, they don't open long enough to get enough air into the cylinder,, this will lead to hard cold starts. Warm starts will still be somewhat OK.

Glow plugs ,,,,, check them they are very important,,,, the block heater will help here too,,,
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  #5  
Old 07-19-2007, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mespe View Post
I've been starting on cold WVO all summer,,, in fact I quit thinning it out with gas, just 100% WVO.
Need I say more?

Get some real fuel in there and STOP starting the engine on cold oil!
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  #6  
Old 07-19-2007, 03:40 AM
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They will start alright on cold WVO, but each time you're doing it, you screw your engine up just a little bit more.
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  #7  
Old 07-19-2007, 03:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
Need I say more?

Get some real fuel in there and STOP starting the engine on cold oil!
.


I have personally been starting my 1982 Mercedes 300D on cold oil for over a year now with no problems.

But I live in Texas, and it is pretty warm here all year.
What kind of tempratures are you trying to start the car in ?

My first guess is that your having a problem with your glow plug system.
Is the glow plug light coming on in the dash like it should ?

My second guess is air in the fuel lines.
Something may have come loose, and is now letting air into the fuel supply.
Can you see fuel in the small filter next to the injection pump ?

Thank You
RichC
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Last edited by RichC; 07-19-2007 at 06:33 AM.
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  #8  
Old 07-19-2007, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by PatricdeBoer View Post
They will start alright on cold WVO, but each time you're doing it, you screw your engine up just a little bit more.
What gets screwed up when you cold start on vegetable oil? From what I've heard, a cold start on VO is harder than on fossil fuel, but not bad for the car.
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http://www.ybiofuels.org/bio_fuels/history_diesel.html
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  #9  
Old 07-19-2007, 04:01 AM
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Please ignore the RichC troll.

If your primer pump leaks when you pump it manually (a common occurrence) then you should replace it with the updated pump handle. They are available on eBay for $20 shipped from various sellers. A good rule of thumb is if fuel can get out, air can get in.

If you haven't changed your fuel filters yet, now is the best time to do so.
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  #10  
Old 07-19-2007, 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Mad2Physicist View Post
What gets screwed up when you cold start on vegetable oil? From what I've heard, a cold start on VO is harder than on fossil fuel, but not bad for the car.
Cold WVO is too thick to be sprayed through the injectors like diesel is. Until your engine warms up, the wvo is not burning completely and leaving a reside, The result is injector and ring coking, which in the long run will score your cylinder walls and lower your compression, making your car harder and harder to start.
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  #11  
Old 07-19-2007, 04:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatricdeBoer View Post
Cold WVO is too thick to be sprayed through the injectors like diesel is. Until your engine warms up, the wvo is not burning completely and leaving a reside, The result is injector and ring coking, which in the long run will score your cylinder walls and lower your compression, making your car harder and harder to start.

Where did you get that information ?

I would like to find out, see if my rings will coke.
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  #12  
Old 07-19-2007, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by RichC View Post
Where did you get that information ?

I would like to find out, see if my rings will coke.
I thought you have done a bunch of research. Hmm, you must have missed this picture that's been posted quite a bit on this forum.
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my sisters 82 300d wont start-coked-bio-injector.jpg  
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  #13  
Old 07-19-2007, 05:28 AM
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1980 300SD W116 Sportline Suspension

Do they make a aftermarket sportline suspension for a 1980 300SD w116 and does anyone have any knowledge on Sumitomo HTR 200 205/70/R14 Tires.

I have a 1993 190 2.6 Sportline And would like my 1980 300SD be a little more responsive around the mountain driving.

Thanks,

Rock

Last edited by Rock77; 07-19-2007 at 05:29 AM. Reason: title
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  #14  
Old 07-19-2007, 06:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
I thought you have done a bunch of research. Hmm, you must have missed this picture that's been posted quite a bit on this forum.

.

Where is that picture from ?
Do you have a link to the story behind it ?

.

Thank You
RichC
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  #15  
Old 07-19-2007, 10:45 AM
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Just an FYI from the EMA

Here is a position paper from the Engine Manufacturer's Association. AS you can see they are strongly against any kind of raw oil fuel. They are OK with processed bioD
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my sisters 82 300d wont start-rawvegetableoil.jpg  

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