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  #1  
Old 07-27-2007, 09:48 PM
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  • Wix #33149 Fuel Filter #1, list $16.95
  • Wix #33006 Fuel Filter #2, list $14.95
  • Wix #51385 Oil Filter Cartridge, list $4.20
  • Wix #42194 Air Cleaner Element, list $12.95 **
  • **Will not fit CA. equipped cars, 49 state Version OK.
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  #2  
Old 07-27-2007, 10:33 PM
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The site shows Wix #Napa #Description Price Case Quantity Quantity Order 513851385Oil Filter$8.34 12 almost twice that price on the oil filter:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojool View Post
  • Wix #33149 Fuel Filter #1, list $16.95
  • Wix #33006 Fuel Filter #2, list $14.95
  • Wix #51385 Oil Filter Cartridge, list $4.20
  • Wix #42194 Air Cleaner Element, list $12.95 **
  • **Will not fit CA. equipped cars, 49 state Version OK.

Where'd you find the oil filters for $4.20? thats a great price.
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  #3  
Old 07-27-2007, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mojool View Post
  • Wix #33149 Fuel Filter #1, list $16.95
  • Wix #33006 Fuel Filter #2, list $14.95
  • Wix #51385 Oil Filter Cartridge, list $4.20
  • Wix #42194 Air Cleaner Element, list $12.95 **
www.FleetFilter.com shows those same part numbers as:

33149 Fuel Filter #1 for $6.26
33006 Fuel Filter #2 for $1.92
51385 Oil Filter Cartridge for $8.34
42194 Air Cleaner Element for $7.30

One each totals $23.82. The last 51385 I used was a Wix that was "Made in Poland".
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Last edited by POS; 07-28-2007 at 09:32 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-28-2007, 12:04 AM
henrydupont
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i'm pretty sure it doesn't matter what filter you use in these modern times anymore. or a filter at all for that matter. what are you filtering, really? if your engine is clean then what are you gonna filter out? some .000001 micron - soot?
also, it's too simple to make a good filter. any indian can do it according to bosch. if you are able to make a crap one you'll be kicked out of the market soon enough I'd say.
that cotton story seems to stick. how would cotton threads ever get any further than the filter is a mystery to me, or how they could do any damage to the engine anyway, (scratching cylinder walls with cotton?) but app. the turkish made fram is the way to go..
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  #5  
Old 07-28-2007, 10:16 AM
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All this conflicting advice from seasoned members. What's a NUB like me to do?!
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  #6  
Old 07-28-2007, 03:06 PM
ForcedInduction
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I personally use the full-flow only (no bypass section) WIX filter number 51385 since I have an external bypass filter. I also blocked off the bypass oil return hole on the oil filter canister's lid with a small setscrew.

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  #7  
Old 07-28-2007, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
I personally use the full-flow only (no bypass section) WIX filter number 51385 since I have an external bypass filter. I also blocked off the bypass oil return hole on the oil filter canister's lid with a small setscrew.
I wonder if that filter would work in my 300D. I'd like to install one of my bypass filters, since they've done so well at scrubbing the oil clean in my gas cars. At that point, I wouldn't really need the bypass filter built in to the cartridge anymore. Time to do some part number searching.
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  #8  
Old 07-28-2007, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
I also blocked off the bypass oil return hole on the oil filter canister's lid with a small setscrew.
Does blocking the bypass return port offer any advantage, versus just leaving it open?
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  #9  
Old 07-28-2007, 10:25 PM
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does it really matter...

for me, yes, it does. but it doesnt matter which one YOU pick for your car...

I dont use the wix because it doesnt have a bypass section.
I tend to go w/ mhyle or turkish fram...

I run syn @5k drians, going for an EOA this round.
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2011, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Does blocking the bypass return port offer any advantage, versus just leaving it open?
On my Bypass Oil Filter setup I dirilled and tapped directly into the center of the Oil Filter Cap.
I did nothing to block of the Oil Return and Check Valve that are near the bottom of the long tube on the Oil Filter and Oil goes into the Bypass Oill Filter with no problems.
I use mostly Bosch Oil Filters.
The advantage to not blocking off the Check Valve/Oil Return is that the way my Filter is set up if the Bypass Oil Filter is plugged up the Check Valve is there to open up and allow the Oil to flow as it would normally.

You can see from the below pic that the Bypass Filter is clearly working (I left it in for 2 Oil Changes).
It is a 0.5 nominal micron string wound Filter.
Attached Thumbnails
oil filter, does REALLY it matter which one you pick?-bypass-filter-homemade-6b.jpg  
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  #11  
Old 07-31-2007, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
I personally use the full-flow only (no bypass section) WIX filter number 51385 since I have an external bypass filter. I also blocked off the bypass oil return hole on the oil filter canister's lid with a small setscrew.

So that's the filter that was in my 300D when I got it!!.. I always wondered about it not having a bypass section.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2011, 09:53 PM
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I cannot speak to oil filters specifically but I design air induction systems and from what I have seen of air filters I would definately spend the extra dough for the good stuff.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2011, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New2MB View Post
I cannot speak to oil filters specifically but I design air induction systems and from what I have seen of air filters I would definately spend the extra dough for the good stuff.
Unlike the Oil Filters that some information is available on the micron level that they filter Air Filters seldom lest that information.
When I looked for that type of info I found a 3 Air Filters that listed that they Filter to 15 Nominal Microns. But, they were paper Element Filters that were for industrial purposes. Something like you might find on a medium sized Fork Lift.

This is just my though on it but I believe the same sized particles in the Oil will do more damage than the same sized particles coming in the Air Intake system.
The reason is that the Oil actually gets squirted and injected directly into the precision areas.
Only part of the Air with particles that goes into a Cylinder is going to make contact with the Cylinder Walls.
I believe that most of the particles in the intake Air are going to go out with your Exhaust gasses.

The problem with the intake Air is that you are always filtering new Air.
With the Oil the same Oil is passing through the Filter thousands of times so the Oil has a more chances to be clean than the Air does.
The intake Air only gets one shot at filtration.

We are getting off topic with the Air Filter issue. But, here is what I did.
Washable Air Filter and Intake Mod , With Larger Breather
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=280376
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  #14  
Old 10-22-2014, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
I personally use the full-flow only (no bypass section) WIX filter number 51385 since I have an external bypass filter. I also blocked off the bypass oil return hole on the oil filter canister's lid with a small setscrew.
Why can't you run the WIX in a stock setup?
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  #15  
Old 10-22-2014, 01:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Why can't you run the WIX in a stock setup?
The wix 61X filter has a nominal filtration of around 40microns, and no bypass soot collector... I don't like them unless you run an aftermarket bypass setup.
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