Because the rotors have time on them. New rotors=no lip.

My rotors have about 30k miles on them and have a nice lip. The ratio on MB front rotors seems to be two sets of pads per set of rotors. You don't turn them just replace.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Some people should not be let near cars to service them, like the PO who didn't see, or is too stupid to realize, the lines or writing on the brake hose used to show if the hose is twisted.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

The brake pads squeeze on the rotor INBOARD of the edge of rotor, causing a ridge on the outter most edge.

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83 SD

84 CD

If that is easier for you than loosening the other end of the hose and by all means go for it.

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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

Thanks for all of the replies. Glad to see the lip is okay. I agree I don't want this hose failing on me.

I just bled my entire brake system a couple of months ago when I replaced my rear hoses and vacuum booster. Shame on me for not seeing this twisted hose until it was too late. I was too occupied with the other portions of the job.

Okay, onto the solution. Looks like I may be in for some front rotors, I need to measure those first. I will put in new front hoses, like I should have done from the get go. I was trying to get away from my 'compulsion to over-repair'.

Questions:
1.) Do I need to bleed the rears if I am only messing with the fronts?
2.) Do I need to bleed the MC by itself with the steel lines disconnected (like I did when I removed it) or can I just bleed from the caliper bleed screws the whole time?

Thanks,
dd

I knew someone would comment on that :-)

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

1. The front and rear systems are separate, so there is no need to bleed the rear brakes.
2. Bleed at the calipers only. Don't touch the lines at the master cylinder.

Nice, thanks. Not so bad compared to the full bench bleeding proceess when removing the master cylinder

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Measured my front rotors, they were down to 7mm (wear limit is like 10.6mm). So, the car did not move another inch. The pads look okay. I am not going to replace those, just the rotors. Any inherent problem in doing this?

And of course I got some new hoses as well, which started this whole adventure.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

No problems installing just new rotors.

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83 SD

84 CD

NO Problems? what world do you live on?
123 front rotors are a Royal PIA...
ya have to pull the hub off the spindle, which requires cleaning and repacking the bearings.
you have to pull all those tiny 10mm allen bolts to get the rotor free from the hub (better get the hub bolted to a tire and use it to aid with leverage for that) then you have to clean off all the old loctite and put new on, or replace the bolts with new MB pre loctited bolts...
I find nothing simple about that!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Sorry to confuse, I was referring to reusing the pads he just put in. It is a lengthly job for rotors, as you have pointed out. And if he puts new hoses in, a bleeding is in order... more fun. BTW, the service limit for the rotors is 10.6mm, and 2mm per pad, bringing the total to, and I flunked math, 14.6mm. Your new pads will have more depth, buying you some driving time.

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83 SD

84 CD

OH NO I didnt know Id have to do all that!

Wonderful...oh well small price to pay for the car stopping. Im getting new pads then, screw it, Im doing this once and not touching it again for the longest amount of time possible. For all I know the pads arent correct.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Don't feel bad, tomorrow I am checking out our 300D's front brakes....the rotors look OK from looking through the wheels (no visible lip...) but the pad warning light is on solid as of 2 weeks ago, so it needs them bad, they're getting real close to the rotor. I have a set of new pads, but no rotors...hopefully the rotors are still serviceable....else I'll be doing it the following weekend. The front brake job isn't all that bad, its just a lot of steps and the greasing of bearings is annoying. I bet moving quickly you could acomplish both sides in 2.5-4 hours. Inexperienced maybe 4-6 hours.... Good luck!

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

So is wheel bearing pulling and repacking a DIY without those fancy tools in the FSM? Is there a 'practical' guide for doing this job somewhere?

How much is this job at an indy? Winter is coming and I need this stuff squared away...

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

It is not too bad as a DIY project. The only special tool I can tink of is the allen socket and a good 1/2 inch breaker bar to remove the cap screws on the back side of the rotor to separate it from the hub.

You may need a "torque amplifier" which is a piece of iron pipe to slip over the end of the breaker bar to make it longer and have better leverage. Some people have had trouble holding the rotor still while breaking the bolts loose. I put mine face down in a wheel that was laying flat on the ground to secure it. I think others have used a big vise!

If your pads are practically new it will be ok to keep them. They are EASY to change later. The rotors are the PITA. Remember to put some Loctite on the rotor bolts when you reassemble everything.

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02 S500
92 500SL
92 400E (Sold)
87 300E (Sold)
83 300D Turbo (Sold)
75 300D (Sold)
74 240D (Sold after 20 years)