Hi everyone,

PO had a brake job done way back. When they put the caliper back on, the brake hose was twisted. So I want to untwist it.

I take the caliper bolts out, and try to pull the caliper off. It wont come off. I inspect the rotor and see a large lip that has been worn into the outside edge that is blocking me from taking the caliper out.

My questions:
1.) Is the lip supposed to be there?
2.) Any ideas how to get the caliper off over this lip thing?

Figure 1 - the twisted brake hose
Figure 2 - the lip. My finger is pushing on it. Id guess its about .080" (2mm) tall.


Thanks so much,
dd44

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Yes, the lip is supposed to be there.

Compress the pistons with by pushing the pads back as if you were going to change them.

Don't forget to put some loctite on those caliper bolts when you put them back in.

If the lip is anywhere near that high, your rotor thickness is likely not within service limits.

A new rotor has no lip. The lip is the result of the rotor wearing under the pads.

Get a flat, heavy duty screwdriver and pry the pad open to clear the lip...

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You dont have to take the caliper off if you just want to untwist the hose. You can loosen it from the other end.

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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

That's right, brake hose replacement (or adjustment) does not require removal of the caliper. When you loosen the line at the top where it connects to the hard line, it is the hard line nut that turns. Once that is loose or off, you then can turn the brake hose in the caliper with no restriction.

That's about the only way to accurately get the brake hose installed without any twist.

Ken300D

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1982 300D at 351K miles
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1987 300D at 370K miles

It's probably a good time to flush the system with new fluid anyway.

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1983 300SD, 4 speed
1994 C280
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Ride in Peace Eric Peterson, Harley of Macon

1.Open bleed screw.
2. Push pistons back.
3. remove caliper.
4. Buy more DOT 4 fluid and flush the system.

I'd replace that brake hose, they don't like to twist it will probably leak.

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But then you have to bleed that brake. It's easier to just remove and reinstall the caliper. (Assuming that the hose was installed straight originally.)

There should be no need to turn the hose in the caliper. It is threaded, so any turning will either tighten or loosen the hose. Turn the other end after removing the line fitting.

If this is so ( "way back") and the hose has been operating twisted since "way back". I would really recommend replacing the hoses. ( yes all of them) they do not like to operate in a twisted mount. You probably have deterioration of the hose. You would hate to have the hose fail.

A couple of comments. To remove the caliper you will need to push the pads back from the rotor. To do this you can either open the bleed screw and allow the fluid to bleed off into a jar, via a hose, as you push the pads back away from the rotor with a large screwdriver. Once both are "retracted" you should be able to remove the the caliper. The second method is press on the pads with the screwdriver and allow the fluid to flow back into the reservoir. Remove some fluid first. I prefer the first method.

The lip is caused by the pads wearing down the rotor, this is normal, but the thickness of the rotor should be measured to make sure the rotor has not worn too thin. If the rotor is too thin an application of the brakes can push the pistons out of the caliper and cause a leak and/or system failure.

The hoses can be removed while the calipers are on the wheel hub. Use flare wrenches so you don't round over the hose ends.

All the operations should be followed with a system fluid bleeding. It is possible to have air enter the system while doing any of the above operations. Plus if the system is in a "way back" status. The fluid has probably absorbed water and could be rusting out your steel lines, You don't want to have to replace the steel brake lines. A huge job.

So

Replace the hoses.
Measure the wear of the rotor, replace if to thin, ( minimum thickness 10.6mm )
If replacing the rotors, replace the pads and hoses. And repack the bearings
Flush and bleed the brake fluid, no matter what the outcome of the above.

Another item. When installing the hoses the twist should have been eliminated. This is done by installing the caliper, then the hose to the caliper. Any "twist"is eliminated when the hose is attached to the hard steel line at the wheel well. Since the steel line connector is a free rotating connector you position the hose correctly and then tighten the 2 with 2 flare wrenches while keeping the hose in a good position.

Dave

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
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1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
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Looks like the caliper was installed without the hose attached and the twisting was due to the hose being forced into the caliper. You have a 1 in 360 chance to get it straight(+-5 Deg). You will still have to open the bleed screw to move the pistons and therefore have to bleed it to make sure there is no air.

You can file out a portion of the lip if it is still hard to remove.

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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles

Nothing wrong with that.

Incorrect.

You won't find that procedure in the service manual!!!

If you remove the pad retention pins, you can slide the caliper off, leaving the pads behind. That way the pads don't have to slide over the lip.

Gloves? Your a manly man arent ya? xP joking of course, yeah the lip is supposed to be there.

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1981 240d (engine donor 1983 240d) recently rebuilt engine hurray! - No more.. fought a tree and the tree won.

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So...would it be a problem if there were no lip? Why is the lip supposed to be there?