pulling 240D engine Advice/tips - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Dale240D · #1 09-14-2007, 10:48 AM

Hey all! I'm finally pulling the engine out of my '83 240D to put new rings and sleeves in her.
I've pulled engines before in old trucks. Any tips/tricks/advice for pulling the engine out of this one? with or without tranny attached? remove the head first? any particular trouble spots? I have a nice heavy hoist and the tilter mechanism.
Thanks,

Dale 240D

LUVMBDiesels · #2 09-14-2007, 11:51 AM

I think it is easier with the tranny attached. I kept mine together on the 300SD, but that is a different engine/body combo. I pulled the radiator and put a piece of plywood over the AC condenser. Oh and if your AC works, remove the compressor and hang it to the the body without opening the hoses.

Best of luck...

rs899 · #3 09-14-2007, 12:36 PM

I think I would leave the tranny attached. You should have plenty of room to work. If it is an auto, don't forget the shifter safety switch and the speedo cable. If its a manual, don't forget the hydralic hose. Better yet, leave the slave cylinder down there and you won't have to bleed it later.

Mustang_man298 · #4 09-14-2007, 12:37 PM

Well, the nice thing is the 616's are a piece of cake to access everything. I've tried pulling them both with and without the tranny, and I found it easier without. I nearly got the engine wedged tight doing it with and gouged the snot out of my firewall. To do it together you really need to have the front end up high for clearance underneath to put some serious tilt on the combo, and you need one of those levelers so you can tilt it as it comes out. If you don't have that leveler and some really tall stands I wouldn't try it. (speaking from experience) Everything was so easy to get to I think it was just easier to undo a few extra bolts and yank it straight up and out with no fenagling, and you would have to undo those bolts anyway after it came out. The nice thing on these cars, you dont need to get a guy to help lift off the hood and then have to adjust it later, since it opens up nice and straight.

klaus kallas · #5 09-14-2007, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mustang_man298

Well, the nice thing is the 616's are a piece of cake to access everything. I've tried pulling them both with and without the tranny, and I found it easier without. I nearly got the engine wedged tight doing it with and gouged the snot out of my firewall. To do it together you really need to have the front end up high for clearance underneath to put some serious tilt on the combo, and you need one of those levelers so you can tilt it as it comes out. If you don't have that leveler and some really tall stands I wouldn't try it. (speaking from experience) Everything was so easy to get to I think it was just easier to undo a few extra bolts and yank it straight up and out with no fenagling, and you would have to undo those bolts anyway after it came out. The nice thing on these cars, you dont need to get a guy to help lift off the hood and then have to adjust it later, since it opens up nice and straight.

I second this. It really is just a few extra (easy to access) bolts to undo the tranny and not frustrate yourself. Speaking from experience as well......

Klaus

JimmyL · #6 09-14-2007, 11:23 PM

On a 240D is is very much easier to pull engine by itself. It is very easy to mate back with tranny on re-installation and get to the bolts. Not as easy on the 5cyl's........

300SDog · #7 09-15-2007, 12:09 AM

Deffinitely leave the tranny behind, reach bell housing bolts leaning over the fender. And you'd probly have better luck with cyl head intact since thats where hoist attachments are. Scrap wood, 2x4's, 4x4 chunks and/or old baseball bats come in handy as props and levers as I'm sure you know. At full vertical tilt you can leave the hood intact, just pull the grill. Get a wheelbarrow for draggin the engine away, thats what i did. Masking tape marked with ink labeling electr and vac connections will help with reassembly. Aint no serious hazard or difficulty that i can think of.

Cervan · #8 09-15-2007, 03:23 AM

i suggest taking out the raidiator, and the oilcooler (it will get banged up) and while your down there i would suggest putting a new front and rear seal on the new engine, why not looking at what the tranny needs as well?

#9 09-15-2007, 08:14 AM

The last several posts offer really good advice. I also prefer to leave the transmission in the chassis whether it is automatic or manual. The four cylinders are MUCH easier to pull than the fives.

As a matter of fact I started pulling the four cylinders when doing a clutch job. They are that easy and quick to pull.

Stevo · #10 09-15-2007, 11:23 AM

IF you have an adjustable load leveler it is way easier too leave the tranny an eng togather. Leave the flex disc on the tranny and let go the two (manny tranny) 17mm bolts holding the tranny cross member to the body (leaving it on the tranny) and pull away. As already mentioned, leave the clutch slave, wire it up outa the way and you wont need too bleed the system later.

Dale240D · #11 09-17-2007, 10:32 AM

Thanks guys. I got her out this weekend. All of your tips really came into use. I left the tranny in and it was pretty easy. The only ocassional head scratchers were removing accesories: a/c pumps etc. The brackets are so NOT like any other car I've ever worked on.
Caveats that I would add for anybody:

the leveler is only 30 bucks at harbor freight. get one.

the tranny cooler lines and ac hoses are attached to the block and easily overlooked.

next to the driver side engine mount is a hydraulic mount/dampener. don't overlook it.

Now i get to clean her and disassemble her and take her to the machine shop.

Thanks tons for the advice.

Dale 240D