My memory is failing me, but if you do a search on my name and "ignition lock" you should find my post where I overcame my problem with a tip from another member.

Once I removed the cylinder I could look inside of the tube that was still in the dash. There were two ears that would spring into place and lock the steering wheel. I was able to keep those ears apart by wedging in a piece of hard plastic I cut to fit. By doing that I completely resolved my sticking key/ignition problems. That was about a year ago and it's been fine ever since, although I do not have the benefit of a steering wheel lock.

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Pictures of the MB: http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee41/EricandRobyn/1981%20Mercedes/

1981 300 SD with a Goldenrod water block and Injetor line heaters. EGR is missing

1999 F-350 with HP X-over, Dahl 100 Fuel Filter, Coolant by-pass filter, CCV mod, Tymar intake.

Both on single tank WVO blend

Its the tumbler, replace it before it breaks. If it fails and you cannot move it its a monster job that requires you remove the steering column. On the W126 you can pop it right out with a paper clip if you can still turn it. The W123 should be similer.

You can get a vin cut one from the dealer, or for a little less a generic one from Worldpac.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I honestly don't think that its the tumbler...

now I'm having problems starting the car no matter what I do. time to replace the ground wire and spark plug wires...

I think I got lucky with the pliers. I also think this is what finished off the tabs on the steering lock mechanism. You could take out the key lock cylinder, and then use needle nose pliers to remove the steering lock mechanism. Then you should be able to put a screwdriver to the switch itself. I may take a while to catch the slot in the switch right. I started mine like this a couple of times. If you do this, and are going to drive it, you will need to insert something in the lock housing to keep the steering wheel from locking. I used a 13mm wrench. You have to insert it in the housing so that it holds the lock open. Also you will have to shut it off by removing vacumn from the shutoff valve or by pressing the lever down on the shut off valve. I don't really recommend driving it like this, but it beat having to pay the tow bill to get it home.

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1973 VW beetle
1978 El Camino
1981 BMW 633
1982 Volvo 242 turbo
1983 BMW 633
1987 MB 300SDL
1998 Olds LSS

Well if you can't turn the key the tumbler is failing. However after reading the post again, it sounds like the ignition switch is dieing.

You probably need 1, 7 & 10.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I just replaced my tumbler on Saturday. My key wasn't stuck, so I didn't have to do any grinding. The spring hasn't lost it's springback, but it isn't great.

Aside from the spring, my starter wouldn't kick in until a 1/2 second or so after turning to the start position. It was also slow to disengage. After taking the Ignition switch apart, I found my problem. The switch is generously greased, and over time my switch contacts have become loaded w/ dust, grime & grease. I will be installing a new switch as soon as time allows.

Mark

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85 300D (California) 220k
03 Silverado 1500 Xcab Z-71 Guzzler 90k Real American steel(made in Canada)
03 Suburban 1500 4x2 Guzzler 170k Real American steel(made in Mexico)
Diamondback hybrid
Element skateboard(mileage unknown)

Good news for diesel owners...There's no such thing as cold...only the absence of heat!

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