the shock plate had a large bump in it, all I did was hook the rear of the lowest coil behind the bump with the arm down as far as it will go then jack the arm up with a floor jack. if you want to hit the entire bottom spring perch you will need a spring compressor, but that bump will hold the spring in place. BTW, i will stand at the end of the jack handle in front of the car until it is raised a bit just in case.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

I agree with wimmutt, your either insane....... or have some balls! Nothing like having a spring in your stomach!

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

A very good way to loose balls.

I pulled the FE from a W123 parts car once using this method. If I recall the lower spring perch went down to a point where the spring flew out to the side. Going back in without a spring compressor... yikes!

Have you got it back together? Still with us?

I’m in the process of doing the front end suspension/bushings in my SDL. I have close to $400 in parts, all are Lemforder & fibi (top of the line). I had done the tie rods and stabilizer link, Lower ball joint at an earlier date.





Currently R & R the below items

Upper control arms
UCA sway bar bushings
Lower control arm bushings
Guide rod mount kit
Suspension bearing/bushings
LCA guide rod bushings

That's exactly the group that I have planned for the SD. I'd also suggest the steering stabilizer to complete the task.

One question: What's the "suspension bearing/bushings" that you refer to?

While I have the springs out.............I'm going to shorten them by 1" to lower the nose slightly on the SD.

Brian, I'm interested in how the lowering works out for you. When I dismantled the SE parts car I kept the springs. I noticed the top perch rubbers are about 3/4" thick. It seems like replacing that piece with a thin piece of rubber would offer a slight lowering without sacrificing spring travel. I don't like the idea of cutting springs.

I wonder what the weight difference is of the 617 and the 380 gas engine?

edit: just checked the SE and the SD. Looks like the SE has a thicker rubber.

I wont get parts until tomorrow and I will have to travel next week, I will most likely get back to it next saturday. On the passenger side the lower and upper arm bushings were shot as well as the upper ball joint. The lower ball joint feels fine, it looks like a bear to change so I am not going to mess with it. Ill fill the grease boot up and call it done. I am sure the driver side ball joints are gone but I want to only have one side apart just in case I forget where something goes.

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Thats odd... I see the lower ball joint and guide rod bushings fail long before anything else.
The lower joint is not too difficult to do. Start soaking it in PB Blaster a few days before. Autozone press will work if done correctly.
Search.

I ended up buying a ball joint press and adapter kit from Harbour Freight for $84. I have a combination that fits but it is really taking a lot of force on the wrench and not budging. It feels tight in the socket so I dont think the joint is bad, I dont want to damage it trying to remove it only to find I cant get it to come out. I am soaking it in liquid wrench, Is PB Blaster that much better?

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

It's parts #113 & 116 in this shot,
Mercedes calls them out as a bearing.

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Speaking of asking what things are.
Does anybody know what this is and where it goes on a 300SDL?

Fastlane calls them out as Subframe Bushing Kit.

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Yes, I've got those as well. They are what is referred to as "subframe bushings". I never could understand the M/B terminology for them.

The SD gets the identical set of parts as you have indicated.

Those are the rear subframe bushings. They go between the subframe and the body, in similar manner to the four in the front.

Hammer 'em out, CAREFULLY press them in. I prefer PB.

When pressing them in make sure it is not in a bind and is straight. When the press gets tough to turn a few persuasive taps will assist.
Putting the ball joint in the freezer for an hr or so makes it a little easier.