would you buy a 1999 E300D - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hatterasguy · #16 10-17-2007, 04:38 PM

Usualy hard starting are those clear plastic lines acting up. They only last a few years, but are cheap.

F18 · #17 10-17-2007, 05:05 PM

ATLD....with thoughs low miles at that price...go for it. That same car in Massachusetts with under 100K miles would get $19,000 to $21,000.
No matter what little needs to be fixed on it....ie. plastic fuel lines...you are way ahead of the game! Dynamite Car!!! You can't even buy a new Saturn for that........
Good Luck!

DslBnz · #18 10-17-2007, 05:41 PM

They're great cars. Very efficient and powerful. They will last for the long haul. But they aren't without their faults.

The 210 bodies are notorious for rust. Not just the body, but including critical stuff such as the front spring perches suddenly collapsing creating quite a dangerous scenario.

Glowplugs seizing in the head, shearing off inside.

One thing I don't care for in the E300 turbo is the lack of response when you goose the pedal. A 350SDL will haul butt immediately, but an E300 needs to wind out to generate similar thrust. No ALDA to adjust, either. I suppose you could always chip it.

raMBow · #19 10-17-2007, 07:37 PM

Happy so far, few issues already noted.

Plus, dash may crack, check for rust on body as noted (look behind rubber door seals all the way around), Lower control arm bushings if not mentioned.

No not perfect, but I enjoy each drive in mine, learn it's quirks and take care of them before they are issues. Have done nothing meaningful to mine in 3 years other than premptively change motor mounts. Will do the fuel lines and control arm bushings shortly.

Enjoy.

jnc19610 · #20 10-17-2007, 08:18 PM

There are 2 my99 E300's in my town. I've replaced both rear window regulators, and my friend has replaced one. They are (at my local dealership) about $170.

I've also needed ball joints at 78K
Glow plugs at 60K.

Overall, the car has been a joy, but.... when issues happen, they are a little spendy.

Jeremy5848 · #21 10-17-2007, 10:43 PM

Any issues running a car of this era on B100?

TMAllison · #22 10-17-2007, 10:57 PM

The only issue is the orings that seal the plastic fuel lines (and a few others). They are Buna (nitrile) rubber and do breakdown.

I've ran a fair amount of commercially prepared B99 through mine prior to ULSD coming out with no problem other than 10% reduced mpg's (less energy in the fuel = a heavier foot and more turbo???). When ULSD came out my DV orings began leaking a few months later. I attribute this to my prior use of B99 combined with the differences in aromatics/additives used in the new blend of ULSD fuel both of which affect buna orings. I used MB replacements for that repair. I have since swapped out all the other o-rings to viton (14 of 20). If the DV's leak again I'll swap them with viton too. Hopefully it will last longer than buna?

I wouldn't personally run SVO/WVO or any home brew bio in mine; although a couple of others do so. To me there's just too many sensors and computer controls to tweak fuels too much. Replacement short and long blocks are pretty pricey on a 606.9xx too.

F18 · #23 10-17-2007, 11:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeremy5848

Any issues running a car of this era on B100?

Have run B99 and B20 in mine when and where I can get it in New England.....have had no problems I can associate with BioDiesel use.
In fact....I believe the tanks of B99 I have run through it really tunes up the fuel system and injectors. There are some performance differences between running Bio and Dino but when I switch back to Dino it runs much better than prior to running the tank of Bio. May be its my imagination!?

Mike-In-Sky · #24 02-13-2010, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sbean

If you get air leaks at the fuel lines, don't replace the whole line. The problem is with the O-rings at the ends. Just get the O-rings. Somebody recently posted a source for them. Steve

O-ring kit = www.fryerpower.com