Gents,

A friend of mine if offering to sell me his 1999 E300D with 60k mi for $13k. I know this is a good deal for the car but I am also aware that the newer generation Benzs are not quite the same bullet-proof car that the early 80s cars are. I currently have an 85 and 86 diesel.

Looking for the major issues with this new generation E class so I can get a heads up on preventative maintenance.

Your recommendations?

Adam

That price for those miles looks more like a steal. Regarding issues, some of the fuel lines tended to leak letting air into the system. I never had any problems with mine. I think they are great cars overall. Powerful and fuel efficient.

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

thanks for the thoughts. Is the fuel pump in the tank or is the lift pump at the injection pump like earlier cars? I would think that if we are getting air into the system it must be the latter as you cannot pull air into a pressurized system.

Are there any known transmission or electrical issues?

I met someone who drove one from that era 400k before selling it because it was rusty. I think if cared for, they can run a long time.

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Actually you get air in through the clear plastic lines after shut down it will pull air in. Those lines are inexpensive and easy to change. This is a steal for the mileage listed. If Iwere in the market andwas made an offer such as this it would be a no brainer.

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Keith Schuster
2006 E350 98K miles
2013 Ford Explorer 15K miles

Is the 99 a turbo?

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012

Yep great car. I'd buy one in a second for that price.

Just have the dealer change the trans fluid and you are good to go.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

I'd agree. That's a smokin' price ! While the cars do have their issues, they can be minimized by staying ahead when it comes to maintenance and fixing things before they become a serious problem.

Remember:

Frequent maintenance = cheap maintenance

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1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter)
Baum spring compressor "for rent"

Look at the collective mileage on the three 606 examples in our replies so far and tell us its not as reliable as a 617. Each of us as as many or more miles than the average W123 owner here....

That said, the engine and chassis does have its own quirks.

Engine suffers fuel/air leaks from oring seals at fuel lines which is more of a nusiance than anything else; not much of a problem if you repalce them every 5 years. GP's can sieze and break making removal a challange. K40 electrical relay goes bad; 5 minute repair and ~$80 part.

Chassis has AC blower/regulator problems; part ~$200 generally on a '99. Some evaporator issues. LCA bushings go out at 100-200K. Some spring perch failures especially if lives in a salty winter environment.

Car is not that difficult to work on. You give up your mitty vac and use a scanner which will generally lead you to the problem. Different mindset than before which some cant grasp.

The up side is 15-20 years newer tech, handling, safety, comfort, style and power.

I avg 31mpg on my 110mi daily commute.

I'll only trade mine for a CDI. Won't go backward.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

If you get air leaks at the fuel lines, don't replace the whole line. The problem is with the O-rings at the ends. Just get the O-rings. Somebody recently posted a source for them. Steve

Thanks for all your thoughts. That makes me feel better. Yes, this car will be my new project car. Hope my 85 won't get jealous. I actually prefer cars with on-board diagnostics as the electronic service tools usually point you in the right direction and alleviate the need for all that preliminary troubleshooting.

I appreciate all your thoughts but thank especially TMAllison as this is more of the info type I was looking for.

If anyone else has thoughts about preventative maintenance that should be done at 60k mi, please let me know.

Looks like I'll pick it up then.

ATLD

You're just in time to change the transmission fluid. I'd do the differential also.

I have just over 200K on my NA 606 and it is going strong (well, as strong as the NA goes).

At 60K it has done a lot of sitting and not much driving. That sometimes causes it own problems.

I'd start with a fresh syn oil and trans service (~$120 parts for trans), rad flush, and replace all the fuel lines (~$60 for the lot) or just the orings if the lines are not yellowed from age. Also check belts and hoses, etc. You could expirience a leak at the Del Valves if it hasnt had too much ULSD run through it in the last year. Not a difficult job but techincal. If/when you have to do that one ASK for advice first.

Then I'd go charge up a few steep hills holding it in 2nd & 3rd gear at 4500-5000rpm a few times to blow any soot out it. Then enjoy. Good luck.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

The 722.6 is a great gear box, just don't buy the sealed for life crap. Have the dealer do the fluid every 50k-60k miles. Yes you have to use MB fluid.

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1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

yeah; it must have been sitting alot. I also know it was predominatly used for short trips which can be problematic for starting systems. The owner selling it to me is a good friend of mine who is a 75 y/o so I know the car was not abused and was always dealer serviced.