I finally got to it today. I had to loosen the solenoid that was in the way to get a 19mm on it. The nut would not tighten. When I tried to loosen the nut the screw like stud backed out with nut. Question is when you tighten the nut is the stud suppose to come out or go in. I retightned the nut which retightned the stud to it's original position and no reverse still. I can't figure how to break the nut loose th adjust the stud if it is the stud that needs to be driven inward. Does anyone know if the stud can be removed all together so I can get to it to adjust it or will my trans ruin if I remove it. Help, Need Reverse. Ray

You are on the right track. The bolt is the adjuster. The nut is just to lock it and keep it from backing out as did mine and others. If yours was locked down already, and it sounds like it was since it broke off when you tried, then I wonder what tightening the adjuster will do. Still no word on the proper adjustment procedure.
My locknut was also tight to the adjuster, and this allowed me to turn it with my screwdriver, but I couldn't get a wrench to turn the nut and lock it down well. Does it leak fluid when you remove the solenoid?
Do all your forward gears work properly?
Was reverse working well previous to this problem? Mine faded away slowly, assumedly as the nut continued to back itself out.
Have you done all the normal things already, like check the fluid level, perhaps dropped the pan and changed the screen, checked the linkage, etc.?
Still like to see the part of that bolt where it broke. Does it look like it was machined to break away?

PETE

OK guys, here's the little gem of wisdom I have for you direct from the ATSG manual on adjustment: " Tighten adjustment screw 0.5 mkp and then back off by 1.75 turns. Lock adjustment screw by means of counternut"

DON'T ask me what an mkp is.

RayM.- I would be very reluctant to remove the adjustment screw. There appears to be a separate pin that rides between it and the band that could very well slip off and end up in the case. Tread lightly here.

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I had no choice but to remove it slowly. Even after removed I couldn't adjust the nut on the bolt.
I found this:My 300SD wont go into reverse
message 6 gives a great direction. I tried it but no luck. I could not get the nut off of the bolt or budge from its position on the bolt. I removed it all together and replaced it with another from one of my parts cars. I tightened it all the way the tried it at every 1/2 turn up to 4 full turns. ( raise car ,turn ,lower and start) No luck. I'm beginning to believe i need to remove it again and file a 1/16 to 1/8th off the end so that when I replace it ,it will tighten in farther.I'll put a pic on the post to show what i mean. In side the inner cylinder it is about 1/2 deep. at the base it looks like a pin has worn down a 1/8 inch depth indention. I'm thinking that if i shave off 1/8 inch off the length of the bolt It would tighten down to the correct position to back out and achieve reverse. I don't know. Does anyone know any better to guide me. The frustration level is mounting. Thank goodness it goes forward, even if it goes forward now in Park & Neutral. Seems to be no 1st.gear. It feels like it starts in 2nd. And L is like park. Darn But it still goes FORWARD and has for 3 weeks now. I'm tempted to leave well enough alone until I get better direction. RAY M.

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Good info, Rick. Thanks again.
The picture also clears up what can't be seen on the exploded diagram. Looks like the pushrod, or 'strut', can't fall into the pan. It is shown as a separate part, however. Does it look threaded? I'd like to remove the bolt to cut a screwdriver slot in the end, but wouldn't want to risk losing that pin.
Can't understand the logic of the shear-off style adjuster. If you overtightened it enough to shear it, you couldn't back it out the 1.75 turns...

PETE

This info helps but help me with these thoughts.
question? As it tightnes is it tightening on the push pin inside and stopping or on the end of the bolt that is stopping on something? If it is stopping at the blot then because on the indention made by the pin inside of the bolt, it isn't then stopping on the pin. Thats what made me think of shortening the bolt so it would stop on the pin instead of the bolt. Darn I don't know.
I'll look for the rod with a mirror but I don't know what I'm looking for.
I didn't check how much fluid came out when I removed the solinoid because i drained all the fluid before.
I do need to drop the trans oil pan and filter. By screen i think you meen the filter,Yes.
The linkage seems ok. bushings great. You know from all the symptoms i've thought for a while that all has gone out of sink with it going forward in park and neutral. st gear seems not to be there and the lowest geat"L" is like park it isn't there. I may pull the shifter and check it out. You can see i'm searching now,but i'll try anything about this point.
You said this"Have someone move the lever while you observe. You could put it in reverse by hand, and jump the solenoid from the connector on the wheelwell (Have someone in the car to apply the brakes!), and start it in reverse." I don't quite understand jumping the solinoid from the connector on the fly wheel, Greek to me. Will that allow you to start in reverse. Where are the jump points located.
I'll copy and paste this to the post on the forum. I'll try again on mon or thurs . i'll get back . Thanks for those sugestions Ray M A lost Cajun. Does anyone think it could all have shifted one posithion in the gear changes because of a miss alligned linkage. "yes,no"? Searching still.