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  #1  
Old 11-25-2007, 11:02 AM
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Location: Dallas
Posts: 802
Oil pump pickup boot / strainer

Sorry I can’t find the original post that showed one of the rubber boots torn / deteriorating. When I replaced mine I thought the rubber was still in good shape and probably would have lasted the lifetime of the motor. I will say that is not a bad idea if you ever drop the pan to at least inspect the pickup to see if anything has been caught in the screen.

Removal is very straightforward, it just peels off the lip around the bottom of the pump – notice the orientation of the screen’s dome. (pic)

A side-by-side of the old and new part – you can’t see any visible wear or indicators as to the condition of the rubber boot. It was still pliable and good condition. (pic)

New one in place (pic)
Attached Thumbnails
Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-remove-old-strainer.jpg   Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-screen-side.jpg   Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-new-boot.jpg   Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-strainer.jpg  
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~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2007, 11:03 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 802
Sealing the oil pan

As you probably read in my other posts, the first time I tried to put the pan back on with a new gasket it leaked. I got a new pan and gasket and applied a thin layer of Permatex # 2 gasket sealant on the gasket to ensure a leak-free seal. Below is the technique I used.

I laid the gasket on a glass table top (easier to clean-up later with a razor blade) and applied a layer of the gasket sealant to the side of the gasket that mates to the oil pan. I used a plastic putty knife to spread the goo thin across the gasket. I then flipped the gasket on top of the oil pan and used two of the 5mm hex bolts to keep the gasket centered on the pan while I repeated the goo application and spreading with the putty knife on the side of the gasket that mates to the bottom of the engine (see pic). That’s all the goo you need – just a thin layer. Torque to 10nm (all 19 bolts) and you are done.

I took this additional pic of the oil pan as it shows the extra long bolt and spacer that holds the transmission line that runs down the driver’s side of the engine on the way to the transmission cooler.

<<<<>>> the pan gasket leaked with time I went back and painstakingly (sp?) removed all the goo and went with the OEM gasket put on DRY. So far so good.
Attached Thumbnails
Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-pan.jpg   Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-pan2.jpg   Tips & Pics - 617Turbo oil drain, check valve, oil pump pickup boot/strainer, sealing-pan3.jpg  
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~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net

Last edited by bodyart27; 12-15-2009 at 09:38 AM. Reason: update
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2007, 12:08 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 18,350
I think this should be wiki'd.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2007, 02:52 PM
JimmyL's Avatar
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Location: Sunnyvale, Texas (DFW)
Posts: 9,675
Dave and Shell pretty much set the standard for write-ups! What a nice job! I love seeing even the bottom of random engine bolts clean on his engine. Such an enviable sickness......
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'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
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'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
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  #5  
Old 11-25-2007, 03:22 PM
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1983 300SD, 4 speeed
 
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Location: Raleighish, NC
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Bodyart27.......if the rest of your engine compartment looks as clean and fresh as the parts of the block that can be seen............YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!



Thank you for the inspiration.
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  #6  
Old 11-26-2007, 09:14 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Dallas
Posts: 802
thanks

Thanks Jimmy. I thought you'd like the "diaper" stop-gap technique for keeping oil off the engine. It doesn't take long before the entire underside gets a coating of oil from such a small leak.
__________________
~shell
As of 2/2010:
2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0
13.6 @ 106mph
10K mi
1984 300SD
260K mi and going and going...
97 S600
46K miles
1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with)
www.se-r.net
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  #7  
Old 07-28-2008, 04:30 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 20
Rubber Boot

My rubber boot was sitting in the oil pan. Where would I find this and the screen? Are they one piece?

On a side note. What purpose does the boot serve? How detrimental is it to not be there? The piece that broke off was the bottom of the rubber boot that has the notches. The rest of the rubber and screen are OK.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bodyart27 View Post
Sorry I can’t find the original post that showed one of the rubber boots torn / deteriorating. When I replaced mine I thought the rubber was still in good shape and probably would have lasted the lifetime of the motor. I will say that is not a bad idea if you ever drop the pan to at least inspect the pickup to see if anything has been caught in the screen.

Removal is very straightforward, it just peels off the lip around the bottom of the pump – notice the orientation of the screen’s dome. (pic)

A side-by-side of the old and new part – you can’t see any visible wear or indicators as to the condition of the rubber boot. It was still pliable and good condition. (pic)

New one in place (pic)
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  #8  
Old 07-30-2008, 10:37 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 20
Still trying to find out what the rubber boot does...anyone?
Thanks!
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  #9  
Old 07-30-2008, 12:49 PM
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Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 471
The boot extends down to the point where it actually touches the pan (sucking up oil between the notches). I assume this is to ensure the oil pump will be able to suck up oil even when the oil level gets low.
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'83 300SD 180k
'84 500SEL 190k (Parting it out)
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