I'm am going to change the transmission fluid and filter in my 1993 300D. It's been a long time. I want to make sure I drain all of the old fluid out. Does that mean i need to drain the tourqe converter? and if so how is that done?

Remove the plastic cover facing forward on the bellhousing and rotate the crank until you see the drain plug.

Remove plug. The fluid will slowly drain out, through the grated area under the TC.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

Can I use regular synthetic ATF in my 300D?

Mobile1. It will do wonders in the AM.

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1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Yeah, I think the concensus is synthetic Dexron is best.

I also wonder if you don't really need to bother with the torque converter bolt if you're going to have the pan off for a filter change.

Won't almost all of the fluid come out if you give it time?

Anyway, I've read the shop manual and draining the TC is definitely preferred, though I don't completely understand why.

For a short cut on turning the engine, most people recommend turning the engine by turning the power steering pulley. The shop manual's shortcut has you do something fancy with the starter and bridging electrical connections.

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1995 E320 (2009 - current)
1985 300TD Turbo black (2007-current)
1983 300TD Turbo red (2008-2009)
1972 280SE (2004-2007)
1977 300CD (2003-2004)
1976 240D (1999-2003)

I use mobil 1.....

i would say 60% of the fluid comes out of the torque converter.

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1989 300ce 129k
( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone)

1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus

1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k



1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it


[/SIGPIC]

I was reading the DIY article on changing the tranny fluid and it said you need to buy a dip stick tool and a infrared thermometer? do I need all of that?

And what is the difference btween Dextron and ATF. I ordered AMS OIL synthectic ATF.

Tranny Dipstick should already be in the dipstick tube (?).
Ams synthetic will be fine (cross check compatibility on package)
'Be careful about cleanliness when you r+r the pan to replace the filter.
No DIRT anywhere.
EDIT:
It will not offend the tranny if you run it through an under car wash before the surgery.
I'm such a nutcase I'll spray the underside of the tranny area with a
degreaser; brush and rinse (and then inspect) before the work!
'Observe correct torque on the pan bolts upon re-installation.
(hint: finger tight...then cross torque...working outward from the center.)
Use a new washer (if called for) when re-installing the Torque converter
drain bolt.(again correct torque applied)
'New washer on the pan drain bolt (if called for) [torque]

"Dex" is just a description of a certain type of ATF's specifications.

When you refill do so on flat/level ground (makes checking fluid level easier).

just my 2c Wear an old t shirt because good chance first time for this you will leak plenty of ATF on yourself.......AMHIK.....

..

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'87 924S
'81 280SEL

Sold ->

81 300SD -
93 300E w/ 3.2
85 300D-
79 300SD
82 300CD
83 300CD - CA
87 190E 5 spd
87 Porsche 924S

"..I'll take a simple "C" to "G" and feel brand new about it..."

DEFINTELY DRAIN THE TORQUE CONVERTER!

As was said, most of the fluid will be in the TC, and no, it will not drain out unless you open the drain plug on the TC. That is why MB put one there

Very smart idea, as from what I understand most cars do not have a TC drain.

Auto tranny fluid and filter should be done every 30k, IMHO. Cheap insurance.

However, as was also mentioned: Cleanliness is KEY. Sweep garage floor, and let dust settle, before taking pan off. Even though it is tempting, do NOT touch/wipe off/attempt to clean trans internals (parts you can see after you take pan off). You do not want ANY lint or foreign materials, no matter how small to enter the trans. Clean the pan with degreaser or diesel, and blow dry with compressed air. Don't towel dry. Towel = lint! Replace filter using CLEAN screwdrivers. Make sure pan is completely dry before affixing new pan gasket, and tighten per instructions and torque to factory spec.

I know, rather anal description of the procedure, but auto transmissions are sensative units! Not to mention $$$.

And DEFINITELY wear clothes that you can throw away! Auto tranny fluid is nasty stuff.

I can't comment on personal experience with synthetic ATF. I was told a few years back NOT to use it in older high mileage transmissions because, like syn motor oil it will clean so good that it will clean varnish/deposits off of the clutches/internals thereby increasing the tolerances and actually make the transmission SLIP and not work correctly.
Again, no personal experience on this, but it makes sense. I didn't want to risk it, so I went with conventional in my old 300TE w/ 237,000.

If anyone wants to offer any other opinions, fire away. Just what I was told.

If you are going to change the trans fluid and filter, you should drain the torq conv. also. there is quite a bit of fluid in it.
use a 5mm allen to remove the bolt, think it is the same for the pan bolt also.
I washed out my pan with some gas, and then used carb or brake cleaner to make sure the pan was clean. just let it air dry.

there are three phillip screws that hold the filter in. just remove and replace.

amazing how much fluid that seems to drip for ever. I did mine when I pulled the engine. drained trans. & torq first. then serviced trans when I replaced the eng. pulled the pan and there was a cup of fluid I drained.

I refilled with Asmoil synthetic along with a new K1 kit. this thing has never shifted so good. no leaks so far, have 3700 miles on it.

as mentioned above, think clean clean clean.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Has anyone herd not to use Synthetic ATF in older high mileage vehicles?

heard it about engine oil, because the synthetic's detergents clean out the gunk too well and the engine starts to leak. It doesn't seem to make sense for the transmission though because there shouldn't be gunk in there acting as a seal.

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1984 300TD

I pull both lines from radiator start car and add fluid through dipstick at same rate as its pumped out(I forget which line it comes out of (drivers?). Shifting through gears -with brake on!!! every 5-10 second so have someone to help you. I use about 2 gallons - have a couple extra qts too!Good idea to flush trans cooler with solvent and blow out too. I've done this on ford,GM,dodge, volvo since at least 1985, easy to do. Pulling pan and changing filter is optional.