Yes it is but a brass drift and a hammer will do the job. Just hit the beaing race along the circumference of the race and it will move out. If necessary heat the hub, not the race. After all the grease is removed

Dave

__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

You are right; I have never seen one fall out of the hub just by using heat alone. But the careful use of heat seems to help with most jobs where something is stuck and the parts are metal.

Another thing I have found is that it is better to use a heavy hammer 2-3 pounds. You can control the slow short tap much better and the drift stays in place better. If you hit it fast and hard with a light weight hammer the drift just wants pops off what you are trying to knock out.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm in the middle of this job right now, but my pin wrench socket cracked while tapping it into the lock nut. Here is the email I sent to the company that sold me the socket.

"I purchased Mercedes Tool, Pin Wrench Socket, M107, 114, 115, 116, 123, 126 (Technic Tool: model M915-0207) from your company about a week ago. The tool was not a perfect fit to the lock-flange nut that it was designed for. While tapping the tool into the flange, two of the teeth cracked. Please let me know what can be done at this point to get a replacement. Thanks very much."

Their reply is as follows.

"There are a couple of problems:

• This tool is not designed to be hammered or used with impact- “tapping”-that alone voids the warranty.

2. I also spoke to our Supplier, and they said that there is a locking plate behind that nut, and that it is supposed to be opened and then the M915-0207 fits in- if the locking plate was not opened enough- there was no way that the tool would fit in there"


Now does anyone know what they are talking about? I see no reason the tool would not fit other than poor design. It wasnt just a little tight either, there was no way it was going to fit in. I actually had to file the pins down quite a bit before it even came close. Am I missing something here? How do I open this "locking plate"?? Nothing I have read suggests there is such a thing. Please Help.