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  #16  
Old 12-12-2007, 07:22 PM
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Location: Colleyville, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Yep. If he was a rancher in Nebraska, he'd see things my way.
And I probably would.

Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #17  
Old 12-12-2007, 07:26 PM
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Well I have discussed the situation of the broken bolt with the 2 Mechanics at the dealer I really trust. BOTH said if it was their car they would leave it and just keep an eye on it. If the shifting gets off or the tranny leaks at the modulator, then fix the broken bolt. They seem to indicate that the holding plate and one bolt will keep the modulator in without any problems.

So the plan now is to not pull the tranny. If in the future I need to I will fix the bolt. As long as the modulator works and the spot does not leak we shall let sleeping dogs lie.

Dave
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #18  
Old 12-12-2007, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmorrison View Post
I think you jinxed me.

Dec 10 2007: It was the best of times, it was the worst of times

Dave

The TD engine is toast. Trying to figure out what I want to do.
I read that thread and feel horrible........
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Gone:
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  #19  
Old 12-13-2007, 07:35 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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Dave-

I know you want to do things the right way, but the "watchful waiting " advice is good, IMO. There's probably an un-elegant creative way to add a bit of pressure to the other side of that flange to keep the modulator seated. If nothing else, can you wrap a wire around the tranny and add a pad to exert some pressure on the free end of that plate?

Rick
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
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  #20  
Old 12-13-2007, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 View Post
Dave-

I know you want to do things the right way, but the "watchful waiting " advice is good, IMO. There's probably an un-elegant creative way to add a bit of pressure to the other side of that flange to keep the modulator seated. If nothing else, can you wrap a wire around the tranny and add a pad to exert some pressure on the free end of that plate?

Rick
That sounds like a good idea to balance out the pressure. I agree.
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'89 420SEL 166k - mine (OC-167,000)
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  #21  
Old 12-13-2007, 06:56 PM
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Now for some new questions.



So I'm not removing the tranny but I need it to run correctly. Here is what I did today.
Drove the car and it still flares but not to much. I adjusted the modulator by tightening it 1 1/2 turns clockwise. Flares are less but still there.
Swapped the pressure control valve on the injection pump with the one from the 82 300TD. Same part number in the EPCNet.
Still flaring the same as before the swap.
While out on the road I rerouted the black transmission line bypassing the 1985 amplifier that is supposed to make the tranny shift smoother. The tranny now shifts firmly and into each gear without a problem. A little hard but I can take the 1 1/2 turns out of the modulator and fine tune the shift.

So

Will it hurt the tranny by removing the amplifier? I also removed the EGR crap as per Brian Carlton's post. So the engine compartment is much cleaner.

DETAILED Under Hood Pictures of '85 300D Vac lines. Any '85s in Rochester, NY?

Well how about it. Should I just leave the IP control valve top line going directly to the tranny modulator or try to fix the amplifier circuit.

Dave
__________________
1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #22  
Old 05-09-2009, 07:25 PM
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Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 109
I know this is an old thread...but I'm probably going to have to pull my transmission in the near future to fix a reverse issue. I'm gathering as much info as I can to make this job as simple as possible.

Not having a lift or transmission jack...but having an engine crane...

Would it be just as easy to pull the engine/transmission combo out together and separate it out of the car?

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  #23  
Old 05-09-2009, 08:26 PM
ForcedInduction
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Check with some equipment rental places. You should be able to get one for under $25/day.
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