My car has some problems and isn't running very smoothly after new injectors, diesel purge, a near perfect compression test in all 6 cylinders, new filters all around and pretty much everything EXCEPT the timing checked and set.

I've searched and I've seen posts with people saying they've successfully did it, posts where people wanted to know ways to improve accuracy and effectiveness of resetting the timing, and other tidbits here and there... But if someone can either explain to me VERY CAREFULLY step by step or show me a post how to check and set the timing on my om603, I would really appreciate it. I'm trying to save a few bucks and DIY it.

Again- I've been told my rough running problem is absolutely related to my timing. Instructions/a very detailed guide or post would be a godsend, for an OM603.

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I presume that you wish to check IP timing.

I don't know of any step by step procedure, but, it's quite straightforward.

The first thing is to rent/purchase the A-B timing indicator lights. This device threads into a port on the IP and will advise you when the engine is right at the reference mark. When both lights illuminate, you simply read the crankshaft damper (requires a bit of contortions to see it). It should read 15 ATDC. If it's less than 19ATDC, you're good to go. Any more than 19 and you'll need to replace the chain. There is no adjustment.

brian, you are probably thinking of valve timing,the injection pump can be adjusted on the 603.
larry perkins lou ky

Yes, I agree. Up to +/- 4° it can be adjusted. However, outside of those numbers, the chain should probably be changed.

This is a good bit of old expertise that hits on something I was thinking of.

I believe this photo is when I aligned the cam and timing marks.



If I’m removing the IP and will be reinstalling it, I think the sensible thing would be to try to accommodate this wear.

But how?

What is the distance off that my injection will be if I set the marker at 14ATDC or whatever the FSM says, but the chain is worn by 2.5 degreees? Does that mean that I should set the timing mark on the damper at 16ATDC to take up the difference? With the timing locked and the tank in the IP centered, installing at some other value will make up some of it, and allow the adjuster screw to be able to fine tune from there.

Does that make sense? Or is that just a total Nono?

I’ve read they don’t have offset keys for the 603. I guess the downside is that then when the TC gets changed you need to reset the IP.

So is there anything proactive to do when reinstalling an IP with a chain worn this amount?

Thanks!

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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

I don't know about a 603 but on a 617.952, 2 degrees after OT is expected as normal break in wear.

Next is the fuel injection pump hold down nuts or bolts can loosened, and the fuel injection pump rotated to re-time it and that compensates for any chain stretch.

The method is supposed to be the A&B light or the RIV method. I believe there is no drip method instructions for the 603.
The 14 degrees or 15 degrees after top dead center after the compression stroke is because the A&B light or the RIV method use that plug on the side of the governor housing and a blade inside to actuate them.

The work around is to go past the OT on the compression stroke to the 14 or 15 degrees in the manual. Remove the plug on the governor and use can catch the oil that is going to come out.

Loosen the fuel injection pump hold down nuts or bolts. Install the timing locking pin tool and rotate the fuel injection pump till the tool is locked in place. Tighten up fuel injection pump hold down blots or nuts and that is as close as you can get without using the A&B light or the RIV method.

Of course, remove the timing locking pin and put the plug back on before running the engine.

Post 3 has a picture of the timing locking pin. It is a old thread. Since that time cheaper versions of the timing locking pin are on ebay. I believe Laser Tool is one of the makers.

Timing MW pump

Post 2 gives you an idea of what is going on. The locking pin uses the same tab inside as the A&B light does. However, the timing locking pin is actually made for when you have removed the pump and you use it to time the pump, so it is timed when you stick it back in.

IP install... locking tool weird, teeth are off the mark.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel