Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962? - Page 11 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

compress ignite · #**151** 08-02-2009, 08:51 PM

Rich,

That's what the factory calls it...consists of:
1. a pressure line from the Intake Manifold to the SwitchOver valve
(Mounted on the Faux FireWall just forward of the Brake Booster compartment) 2.A line from the SwitchOver Valve to the ALDA.
3.A Sensor screwed into the Intake Manifold that,When pressure in the Intake
exceeds the set Boost point,Grounds the SwitchOver Valve which then denys
Boost to the ALDA...AND as a result the ALDA "STRANGLES" fuel enrichment
to save the engine.

Problem is the pressure line from the Intake to the SwitchOver Valve,
and thence to the ALDA gets clogged up with all the EGR GOO and the ALDA seeing No Boost does not Enrich the Fuel Flow.

I'll bet if you:
1.Take the Pressure lines off and clean them out with Brake Parts Cleaner.
1a.Clean out the nipple the pressure line uses in the Intake.
2.Take the Switch Over Valve off and using Brake Parts Cleaner to blow out
all the GOO.
3.Unscrew the Sensor and Clean out it's port.

Your OM602's PERFORMANCE will amaze you!

Ideally you'd take the Whole Intake Manifold Off and fill it up with BioDiesel
to soak for a day or so and then clean it out.

BC's EGR deletion kit will remove the SOOT from the EGR part of the GOO!

gsxr · #**152** 08-03-2009, 01:07 PM

Ditto what Sixto said. Make sure the ALDA is getting a boost signal (the fitting can get plugged with oily goo from the EGR soot). A normal 0-60 time would be in the 12-13 second range, assuming the car is upshifting around 4800rpm at WOT. You'll never see smoke at WOT unless things are carboned up, or you have an airflow problem (dirty filter, etc). Even if you max out the injection pump, the engine flows more air than the pump can supply fuel for, so you won't see smoke unless something is wrong. BTW, I assume the fuel filters are clean, and/or recent?

clickclak · #**153** 08-25-2009, 07:10 PM

Gsxr,

I just found this thread and have a couple of questions.

1.Do you have the part number for the European crossover pipe? I didn't see it listed in the thread but may have overlooked it.

2. How did you deal with the vacuum connection on the recirculating air valve mounted on the front of the turbocharger? Did you remove this or just plug the connection where it normally attaches to the hose coming from the transducer?

3. Will this modification work the same way on the 87 300D? I'm restoring one right now

I'm anxious to get this done one my 93 as well, I'm sick of the turbo lag and that rats nest!

gsxr · #**154** 08-26-2009, 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clickclak

1.Do you have the part number for the European crossover pipe? I didn't see it listed in the thread but may have overlooked it.

I don't have a complete part list available. It seems that we may not be able to convert to the full Euro setup without the Euro turbocharger or exhaust manifold (or both). The Euro crossover pipe doesn't seem to line up any better than the US, it's still too far away. It's supposed to look like the photos shown here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by clickclak

2. How did you deal with the vacuum connection on the recirculating air valve mounted on the front of the turbocharger? Did you remove this or just plug the connection where it normally attaches to the hose coming from the transducer?

Depends what year/model you're talking about - the 602.962, which this thread is discussing, does not have ARV on the turbo at all. But in both cases, I removed all the stock plumbing, and changed the vac source fitting as shown here, so there is no vac feed to any smog equipment.

Quote:

Originally Posted by clickclak

3. Will this modification work the same way on the 87 300D? I'm restoring one right now.

No need to. The '87 300D already has the pressure wastegate. Just disable the EGR and ARV, and block or remove the plumbing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by clickclak

I'm anxious to get this done one my 93 as well, I'm sick of the turbo lag and that rats nest!

On the '93 it will allow disabling the EGR, and it also prevents the computer from cutting boost unnecessarily. It won't do anything for turbo lag. You can tweak the ALDA and/or full load to try and improve power, but once you're at the factory spec of about 12 seconds 0-60 (as measured via stopwatch), it's not gonna get any better without stuffing a 6-cylinder under the hood. The 2.5 engine is nice for economy, and it's fine once the RPM's are up, but off idle (and off boost) it's sluggish. Can't fix that - simple lack of displacement.

clickclak · #**155** 08-27-2009, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

I don't have a complete part list available. It seems that we may not be able to convert to the full Euro setup without the Euro turbocharger or exhaust manifold (or both). The Euro crossover pipe doesn't seem to line up any better than the US, it's still too far away. It's supposed to look like the photos shown here.

Depends what year/model you're talking about - the 602.962, which this thread is discussing, does not have ARV on the turbo at all. But in both cases, I removed all the stock plumbing, and changed the vac source fitting as shown here, so there is no vac feed to any smog equipment.

No need to. The '87 300D already has the pressure wastegate. Just disable the EGR and ARV, and block or remove the plumbing.

On the '93 it will allow disabling the EGR, and it also prevents the computer from cutting boost unnecessarily. It won't do anything for turbo lag. You can tweak the ALDA and/or full load to try and improve power, but once you're at the factory spec of about 12 seconds 0-60 (as measured via stopwatch), it's not gonna get any better without stuffing a 6-cylinder under the hood. The 2.5 engine is nice for economy, and it's fine once the RPM's are up, but off idle (and off boost) it's sluggish. Can't fix that - simple lack of displacement.

Thanks. I suspected the problem was lack of displacement, but I haven't tweaked anything including the alda due to ignorance of the subject. Does the factory repair CD show this process?

Regarding parts, I have a source in Germany that can get them, but without the numbers and a definite matchup on the crossover, turbo and such I'll have to wait

Regarding the 87 300D, forgive my ignorance but when you say disable the EGR and ARV, do you mean remove the vac transducers, and physically remove both of these components? I know to unbolt EGR and install a cover plate, but the ARV looks permanently attached. Or do I plug it ? The transducers on this car are bad so I took them out and was about to replace @ $100 each

when I found this thread. Thanks for your help.

Bio300TDTdriver · #**156** 08-27-2009, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clickclak

Regarding the 87 300D, forgive my ignorance but when you say disable the EGR and ARV, do you mean remove the vac transducers, and physically remove both of these components? I know to unbolt EGR and install a cover plate, but the ARV looks permanently attached. Or do I plug it ? The transducers on this car are bad so I took them out and was about to replace @ $100 each

when I found this thread. Thanks for your help.

Yes you can remove them completely. You use the "F" shaped vacuum connector (601-078-06-45) to eliminate the unneeded vacuum lines. Mine are still sitting in a box in the garage. I'm not sure why I don't just dispose of them.

gsxr · #**157** 08-27-2009, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by clickclak

I suspected the problem was lack of displacement, but I haven't tweaked anything including the alda due to ignorance of the subject. Does the factory repair CD show this process?

It does mention it (click here) but there are no step-by-step instructions. Search this forum and you'll find a lot of info on the ALDA. However, be careful with the round canister style ALDA used from about 1992-up... I think those must be adjusted via shims only. The older square type can be adjust via shims or setscrew. Click here for details on the shims.

Quote:

Originally Posted by clickclak

Regarding the 87 300D, forgive my ignorance but when you say disable the EGR and ARV, do you mean remove the vac transducers, and physically remove both of these components? I know to unbolt EGR and install a cover plate, but the ARV looks permanently attached. Or do I plug it ? The transducers on this car are bad so I took them out and was about to replace @ $100 each

when I found this thread. Thanks for your help.

To clarify the previous post... you can physically remove the plumbing and transducers. You can remove the EGR if desired, or it can stay in place, if it's not leaking. The ARV can stay in place, it rarely leaks or causes problems. To remove the ARV you have to disassemble it and find a plug of suitable size... I didn't bother, I just unplugged it.

Johnhef · #**158** 10-04-2009, 06:11 PM

Dave, thanks again for locating this thread for me.

I'm showing 603-098-17-07 as the euro crossover pipe (603-098-15-07 for the US one) needed in conjunction with the 603-098-13-04 tube referenced back on page 2. Can anyone verify this? I can get a quote on my cost for one tomorrow.

Anyone have a good online supplier for the 433489-12 garrett actuator they can give a link for?

gsxr · #**159** 10-04-2009, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnhef

Dave, thanks again for locating this thread for me. I'm showing 603-098-17-07 as the euro crossover pipe (603-098-15-07 for the US one) needed in conjunction with the 603-098-13-04 tube referenced back on page 2. Can anyone verify this? I can get a quote on my cost for one tomorrow.

John, I managed to get the -17-07 euro pipe, and I already have the tube. I haven't yet figured how how the pipe is different from the stock pipe, but it is not different enough to replace the EGR mixer housing. I believe we'd also need the Euro exhaust manifold and/or Euro turbocharger to make things line up properly. They're almost identical visually... I wonder if the ID is a bit different perhaps. Something is still amiss here that I haven't yet pinpointed. In the meantime, the car works fine with the EGR and flapper valve simply disconnected.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnhef

Anyone have a good online supplier for the 433489-12 garrett actuator they can give a link for?

Yes - I'm interested in finding an alternate source as well. But, ATP Turbo should be able to get one, although you'll likely need to call and talk with someone... it's not on their website, AFAIK.

Johnhef · #**160** 10-05-2009, 10:21 PM

I talked with a friend over at TurboXS and he said to email www.agpturbo.com about it and they should probably be able to get one, I'm waiting for a response still.

Johnhef · #**161** 10-08-2009, 09:38 AM

No luck from AGP. Dave who did you order yours from? I'm just going to get it and worry about finding other sources later.

Johnhef · #**162** 10-18-2009, 09:49 PM

Heres the direct link to buy the one Dave and other have used from ATPturbo. It's not listed on their site.

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TP&Product_Code=433489-12&Category_Code

Wayfarer · #**163** 02-21-2010, 10:17 PM

Quick question here: I have a 1992 300D 2.5 with the pressure wastegate mod. Drives like a dream. I finally got around to hooking up a boost gauge and it shows 14 psi boost at the maximum under hard acceleration. It goes up to 14 pretty quick and then just stays there, even though I still have some throttle left. Doesn't matter when I floor it, though, it stays right at 14, which is to be expected with a wastegate that comes set to dump to maintain 14 psi.

My question is whether this is a little too high, since in reading this and other posts, it seems that the ALDA and IP are only capable of supplying enough fuel for only about a 11-12 psi boost and that the rest of the boost may be doing nothing but add stress.

I have no smoke, so whatever fuel is being supplied is being burned. In the interest of durability, reliability, and who knows maybe a hair better economy, should I adjust the length of the wastegate actuator from 14 psi to reduce boost to around 12? Or am I good just staying at 14? The concern is additional boost that the IP cannot supply fuel to.

Love these cars, btw. I have about 300K wheel time on two W124 diesels (so far!). Just awesome cars, 28 mpg around town and 35 mpg on the highway

, and super easy to work on.

pdrayton · #**164** 02-22-2010, 08:31 AM

From what the experienced guru's have told me when I asked the same question, 14psi is fine. The ALDA controls the mix and will put less fuel in, or something like that.

There you go, there's your technical answer....

amg280 · #**165** 02-22-2010, 09:40 AM

14psi is fine. Mine drives like a dream since I did that mod. Did it at approx 200K, now have 220K, not one hiccup.

Cant wait for spring to get it out of the barn!