well, all is well with the exception of the last piece i went to reattach- the breather vent line- it broke. Trying to figureout a makeshift repair that will work enough to get me home! had a hose in it, but the hood pushed it in too far and caused oil to blow out the dipstick

the newfound acceleration is mindblowing though!

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

John - thanks for the information on the thread size - greatly appreciated. It is nice to see that you are doing the modification also. I have yet to do either one of mine although I just recieved the actuator and fitting from ATP today. I will post results later ... when I get to it.

Thankyou

1991 300D
1992 300D

All is well after the first day here, I ended up rtv'ing a cut section of M112 breather cover hose into the VC and pushing the other end over the broken part of the hard plastic tube. I'll order a new one on monday.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Link to Chris's new thread about low 602 power, even after the wastegate mod:

Fuel Supply (IP) problem on W-124

gsxr thankyou for starting a new thread for this issue.

regards

Not sure if this has been covered in this mammoth thread, but the 603 version of the Garrett actuator can be made to fit on the smaller 602 turbo. The canister is physically larger, so you just need to add about 6mm of spacers to get it to sit back a bit and not interfere with the turbine housing. After that, it's just a matter of adjusting the threaded rod to the appropriate length. An 8" section of 2.25" silicone intercooler hose can be used to replace the entire mixer housing, as well. A highly recommended and very satisfying upgrade.

Woo Hoo! Ordered the actuator. Came within a week. Got the M6 X 1 die to thread the rod down a bit and cut about 1/2 inch off the end of the rod.

Removal of the old actuator was pretty easy from below. Drove the front end up on ramps and had pretty good access to the bolts. The top nut (10mm) is a PIA but use long 1/4 inch rod with a swivel and it came out pretty easy. The bottom nut is visible and easy to get to.

The C-clip came right off using a flat blade screwdriver and popped it off.

This actuator operates in reverse of the original. The original is always out (no boost) vacuum is applied and you get boost. The replacement is always in constant boost and is throttled down/controlled by the pressure wastegate.

Installation of the new controller was very easy pre-set rod length to 106-108 mm from base to hole. Pictures are shown earlier. Place wastegate in hole note which way the hose fitting goes. I place mine so it points towards the engine, not the fender. Thread on bottom nut. Attach wastegate actuator eye to the post and attach the C-clip. It should be in the fully engaged position. Don't forget to lock down the adjustment nut.

Thread on the upper nut then fully tighten both nuts. I used a deep socket, swivel and long extension. Tighten up both bolts. That is for the hard part.

For the hose that controls the wastegate I tapped into the ALDA outlet on the manifold. I placed a short hose, T-fitting, to the ALDA, Off the T-fitting to the wastegate controller. The hose that controls the wastegate goes towards the front of the engine follows the old vac lines, then down to the wastegate.

I hooked up a PSI gauge. (It only goes to 10) It did max out a few times heavy on the throttle. PSI spools up quickly and at 1900-2000 RPM, 50 MPH, I'm getting steady 2 PSI of boost with cruise control on pretty smooth road.

So far so good. I'm happy with this mod.
First Picture: Shows hose going to wastegate. Left side of fire wall.
Second Picute: Where I added a T-fitting from the manifold going to the ALDA connector. To feed the wastegate.
Third Picture: Grayish hose I used from the manifold to the wastegate
Forth Picture: Attached to the wastegate.

I'll add some zip-ties to tighten the hose/barb connectors.

Attached Thumbnails

       

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

It is great to hear another success story. I am also including here my conclusions after doing this modification.... in the event it will be of help.

I just did the wastegate modification to my 92 300D - It was by all accounts a success...as for the boost pressure it appears to be satisfactory ( my all purpose shop vacuum pressure gauge only goes up to 10 on the positive side and it pins it ). I took the control signal for the wastegate actuator off of the intake's unused port ( by adding a fitting ) and it seems to work fine.

! Please note that I did shorten the rod length by the 10 mm suggested earlier in this thread but actually that was not necessary nor helpful unless a person has the 6 x 1.0 metric die that is required to cut additional threads on the shaft. The reason for this conclusion is that before I cut the 10mm off the shaft the adjustable tip was able to bottom out on the threads with the locknut removed and this was also the case after I cut the 10mm off. the end result is this... with the locknut in place which it is necessary there is aproximately 3mm of shorter rod length that is required to achienve the closed and slight pretension load on the wastegate arm ( at rest position of wastegate)... so what I did was I placed one flat washer and one lockwasher on each of the threaded mounting shafts of the actuator and then offered the actuator to the mounting bracket this effectively shortened the rod length the required distance without the need for the die ( the only one that I was missing from my set... isnt it alway like that ). hope this helps someone in there efforts.

Mixer housing removed

Attached Thumbnails

 

Bobodaclown's write up on how he set up the pressure activated wastegate actuator is intriguing. It makes sense for the pressure reading to be the same as the ALDA gets. Plus there's no drilling and tapping the turbo or manifold.

It looks like he modified the set up to have the factory port on the driver's side of the intake manifold connect directly to the ALDA and spliced into that. I think there are other connections on that tubing circuit on my W124 300D. Is that correct? If so, what about the other connections?

The second question is whether the distance between the far side of the intake manifold and the wastegate actuator would affect the pressure reading? I imagine it shouldn't assuming an airtight connection, but I'm no physicist.

Thanks for any input folks might have.

Just an update. I got pressure gauge that goes to 30. The last one I had only went up to 10.
Did some quick checks. My turbo never went above 12.5 psi.
I'm running my charge pressure hose, that controls the wastegate, from the manifold connection that feeds the ALDA that's on the intake manifold. It's a longer run. People were concerned about the distance/time response of the hose. If you're removing the turbo I can see tapping and installing the connector on the turbo. If your not then this way seems to work fine. YMMV.

According to the manual it should be between .85-.95 BAR (12.3-13.7 PSI) at 4000 rpm. I'm maxing out at 12.5 PSI = .86 BAR

I'm good to go. There is no safety system incorporated. Strictly running from the pressure controller and all is well.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

Just wanted to add to this great thread -- I too finished the wastegate conversion by leaving the turbo on the exhaust manifold and tapping for boost upstream of the turbo housing. I used a mityvac to measure boost and it would easily jump up to 14 psi if I stepped on it. With the pressure line to the new wastegate disconnected, I saw roughly 20-22 psi at the intake manifold. I didn't want to push it much more after that.

There is so much useful info in this thread, and a bunch of it seems a bit interspersed throughout the pages. The info that I was looking for was the sizes of the tap and die for cutting threads on the new wastegate and for the 1/8 NPT elbow fitting that the OP used. As mentioned before, to cut additional threads on the wastegate actuator, you need a M6 by 1.00 pitch die. To tap for the elbow fitting, you need to use a 7/16 - 20 tap (I was a bit nervous so I went to a hardware store to verify). The closest drill bit diameter I found was 3/8". I apologize if this is redundant, but this type of info would have calmed my trepidations about doing a mod like this for the first time!

Driving the car is a pleasure now -- the shifts are crisp and firm, and the car can get out of it's own way (although I did replace some vaccuum lines which helped as well). This mod made me realize that I probably was not making any meaningful boost before, especially since I can clearly hear the turbo spooling now. Part of me is nervous though -- I hope the turbo doesn't conk out on me since it has been on vacation for so long. Luckily, I don't seem to have any major fueling issues either (for now, fingers crossed).

Thanks for all of the useful info and feedback!

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1980 240D
1993 300D 2.5
2002 Golf TDI

the vacuum line to the air filter is the vacuum dump, so it vents to atmosphere through that filter.

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1983 240D Silver/Blue "Sadie", unknown miles. 100k miles on WVO single tank, converted to 2 tank about 10k miles ago, FPHE, Injector Heaters, Aux Fuel pump. Alcohol/Water injection. Frantz oil bypass filter
1992 300D 2.5 Turbo Green/Tan "Jade" 267K miles Stock.
1992 300D 2.5 tan/tan "Rocky" on 2 tank WVO. Pressure actuated Turbo "rat's nest" surgery completed. 197k miles

Chris and pdrayton are correct - thanks guys!

Hey, thanks for the info in note 181. I didn't catch that one. I got fixated on trying to find wether or not the new part# was posted and not seeing it. Thanks for the direction. Love this post !!!

With regards to the filtered vaccum line going through the battery compartment and into the fire wall??? It's definate sounds as if it's going through the ventilation system in some way inside the car. I can hear it hissing as I push air through it (did sound restricted at one point). Where this line ends I have no idea. A little confused why it's tapped into the vaccum draw if it's just ventilating to the atmosphere as that would bleed out the vaccum from everything else like a leak. I'm obviously not understanding something or suffering from the wrong vaccum diagram. Any more detail you can provide would be greatly appreciated.

On my car as I hook up the previous owners disconnected vaccume lines the EGR and Mixer/Cutoff Valve immediately pull full draw and choke off the engine. Connecting the vaccum line going through the firewall as shown in the Vaccum Diagrams bleeds out the system. So either way nothing works right. My guess would be some of the diaphrams or selinoids are bad. My reason for the Manual modifications here.

Electrical: After removing all the vacuum components there's three or four connections to the vaccum selinoids on the left side of the engine bay. I presume disconnecting them will not through any codes or is there something else I should do with them? (1992 Mercedes 0M602 300TD)

Again, thanks for all of your help. Just looking for a little clarity on these items. This sounds like a great mod to do. Especially with all the exterior engine gadgest growing old at 285k miles.