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#61
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That line you were holding in that last picture is the BOOST LINE that goes from the intake manifold to the ALDA. The hissing you are hearing is probably air whistling out of the opening in the intake manifold when the turbo rev's up. I would bet 100% thats where the "swooshing" sound is coming from....a lot of air will whistle out of that hole when the engine is under load, the turbo is building a strong air charge and that hole lets it escape. The oil leak is probably a bad seal on the filter canister....
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#62
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the "what is this? where dose this go"? is the boost for the turbo. There should be a banjo bolt holding that to the back of the intake manifold- maybe its missing or broke off. That could explain the noise. Don't know where you would get a bolt like that where you are now. You can do without it for now ( not safety related), but you won't be getting any turbo power.
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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#63
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The first picture is the oil filter housing, if the part you're talking about is the one with the writing superimposed on it. The second one is the "banjo" fitting for the turbo boost signal to the ALDA. It bolts to the rear of the intake manifold. If you take your finger and feel around the rear of the intake manifold between it and the firewall you'll feel a hole where it bolts in. I'll bet the bolt is gone. Not to worry, you can drive without it, you just won't have any torbo boost. That would explain the Shhhhhhh sound, under boost the manifold is pressurized by the turbo. You're hearing the air leaking out the hole.
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82 300SD 202K 82 300SD 233K 83 300TD 340K 82 300TD 98k euro (parts on the hoof) 85 300TD 282K 83 300TD 197K |
#64
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Quote:
If I am not mistaken, that canister is the oil filter housing......should not be making any kind of noise. Good luck
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96 E300d |
#65
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The green fitting you are showing and attributing the hissing noise to is a check valve in the vacuum system. They have plastic bodies and crack with age, then leak. Hissing is a reasonable noise to expect when they leak. The cyclic nature of the noise may be the stroke rate of the vacuum pump at speed.
In your case if the problem is vacuum, you will see more vacuum related functions fail. Brakes are run on vacuum, as is the transmission and the climate control system. Brakes are a real safety issue, so I would wrap the offending green device with electrical tape to try to seal it. I have done this on an old 240D steel vacuum line from the pump to that big, thick line going to the brake booster and it solved my vacuum leakage problem for years. Your problem may also be the rubber connector in the area, and if that is the case either buy new fittings or wrap them too. In the end, Ford makes a vacuum check valve that is much larger, but has the same size end connections and does the trick at about ten percent of the MB part cost. These should be available at NAPA or Autozone or PepBoys. I switched all mine to Ford parts on my 1975 240D. Jim
__________________
Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
#66
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A gallon is a lot of oil to lose.
Is it leaking somewhere badly or are you brning that much?
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Joe ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 1980 300SD - 495k miles - 'The Ambassador' ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Former Family Members 95 C280 73 280SEL 90 300D 87 300SDL (X2) 86 560SEL 84 300D 80 300SD |
#67
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Would that hole make a rythimic sound as I get up to speed?
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Ginny in Denver-ish 78 300SD, 265K (mine) |
#68
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Quote:
WARNING! DANGER!! You have GOT to get that oring situation squared away on your oil filter housing if that is where the leak is. Actually it doesn't look like enough mess for that to be leaking, but you have GOT to find your oil leak. You can't be driving around a gallon low!! I sure hope massive oil consumption/leaking wasn't the reason for the seller dumping this car. Oh dear......
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Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#69
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Jim, it's the oil filter canister, sorry, not the green thing.
It's burning oil (grey ish smoke) but it's also dripping fast enough that you can watch it if you look under the car. Should I go get an oil change? Could they fix the leak and do the O-ring?
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Ginny in Denver-ish 78 300SD, 265K (mine) |
#70
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Pretty unanimous-
That green thing? GET RID OF IT. Just plug the line directly where it goes and bypass it for now. Get another one later if you want ( or get rid of that vacuum mess on your valve cover entirely). I think you are OK- be careful with the brakes and drive. This is far better than any reality TV show
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
#71
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Quote:
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#72
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Quote:
that got my attention!
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Ginny in Denver-ish 78 300SD, 265K (mine) |
#73
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If the second picture shows a loose boost pressure line, you will have some issues as altitude increases on your way to Denver with maintaining power. Another item you should be able to either find at the local MB dealership or cannibalize from a parts car in a lot selling older MBs, or a junk yard. I have never heard of one of these falling off, so a junk yard car likely has the original one still installed.
Your car may need engine mounts. I have had cyclic hissing noises associated with loose connections on the exhaust manifold caused by failed engine mounts. Jim
__________________
Own: 1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles), 1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000, 1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles, 1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles. 2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles Owned: 1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law), 1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot), 1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned), 1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles), 1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep) |
#74
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Somebody has to figure out exactly where the oil dripping is coming from. If drain bolt or filter cannister that can be dealt with. Even if coming from valve cover. Look at oil cooler lines also. Bad engine mounts cause engine to drop, can cause problems with these lines. If front or rear seal, well, let's just hope not.....
__________________
Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT 2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed '81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John |
#75
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If you have a bad leak from the top of the oil canister, go to any auto parts place and buy a new oil filter. Remove the two 13mm bolts. Use the new o-ring that comes with the oil filter on the canister.
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??) |
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