My point if your going to remove the EGR shouldn't you also advance the timing. I guess what is your reason for removing the EGR? More power?

I'm a little naive about some of this.
EGR valve is there for emissions control (NOx). Higher temperatures create more NOx.

Reduced cylinder temperatures can be achieved in two ways:
Retarding ignition timing and/or Reducing the amount of oxygen in the cylinder,
which inhibits the combustion process.

If you retard timing: This technique lowers cylinder temperature, reducing NOx, But it also reduces fuel economy and performance, and creates excess soot, which results
in more frequent oil changes.

The best way to reduce NOx is to limit the amount of oxygen in the cylinder. Reduced oxygen results in lower cylinder temperatures. This is done by recirculating some exhaust gas (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) into the cylinder.

__________________
92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

The engine breathing in clean air and no soot-oil buildup in the intake.

Brian,
Thanks for jumping in on this thread. I spent hours reading the entire ALDA Removal on the 603 thread and posted there - sorry.

After doing all that reading, I went out today to see what I had. It's very easy to get to so I see why not removing it is the better option compared to removal on the 603.

My ALDA is still sealed so I need to break the seal and adjust. But I'm a bit confused about the connection. There is a line (pressure I think rather than vacuum based on the 603 thread). That line goes from the ALDA to a box on the firewall. The box has a line connection back to the engine (transparent and pretty dirty looking) but also an electrical connection. What's the electrical lead to and control?

All of my vacuum lines are originals. I suspect they will break easily when I start moving them around to test further. Do I just use rubber vacuum tubing or is there a source for the hard plastic lines. I hooked up my Mity Vac and I have vacuum leaks. I'd better get some line before I go further.

I sent Brian a request for kit information to remove the EGR.

Thanks,
Charles

You're correct on the connections. The "box" on the firewall is the overboost protection valve. The line from the manifold to the bottom of this overboost valve needs to be removed and cleaned. When you remove it, it will probably snap.......so, be prepared to order a new one. The line is connected to the banjo bolt on the back of the manifold. The bolt needs to be removed and cleaned as it clogs with soot.

The rubber vacuum tubing is available from this site in the correct size. The hard plastic lines (Tecalan) is also available from this site. Both are also available at the dealer.