Anyone try any of their products?

[NO,This is not another opportunity for ANOTHER
*** thread or HiJack]

Motor lubricant treatment?
ATF treatment?
Gear lubricant treatment?
Marine lubricant treatment?

http://www.altboron.com/

All un-necessary, and they will either do nothing or cause damage (usually damage). So I'd just stick with regular fluids with no additives.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Oil usually has additives already included. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EP_additive http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_additive among them may be a boron compound. No matter what additional additive used, most people will never see a "phenomenal" increase in performace. Doubtful that the results will cause any return on the money spent. In lay terms....usually money down the drain....oil drain that is. But it's your car and your money and I doubt it will cause harm.

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I was having some harsh shifting from 1-2nd gear (it is getting the correct vacuum) and I dicided to try some Lucus ATF addative/sealer (as some of the members recommended). It took care of the harsh shift but it takes a little longer to change from 3rd-4rd now. But, I would not have used any addative if I was not having a problem.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

A test proved that the Lucas "Oil Stabilizer" causes the oil to foam up in the crank case, starving the bearings of oil and killing the engine. Not what I want going on in my engine.....

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I've never heard of that before. Now, I'm glad.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

I put 100% lucas in my diff and it did the same. Foamed like crazy. Then I read the bottle and drained all the lucas, refilled with Mobil 1 gear oil and 20% lucas (both synthetic). Foaming went away. I put lucas in my engine at every change (1 qt lucas and 8 qts Mobil 1) and have never experienced any foaming. I have checked the oil after a hard run with the engine still running and no foaming. In other words, read the directions. The reason I like the lucas is the way it stickes to the camshaft after it sits for a while. Oil seems to just run off. I like the lucas on the camshafts and everything else at startup. If you drive your car every day it may not make any difference but if you drive it only on the weekends thena little extra help never hurts.

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84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles)

No offense, and I don't really care for the lucas product, but that test showed that Lucas foamed up in a little box with small straight-cut gears at high RPM. Scale alone makes the test invalid, and whenever an Amsoil dealer sets out to test competitors' oil additives it will be suspect IMO.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Only additive we MAY need is diesel additive.

__________________
82 300D....went to MB heaven
90 350 SDL....excercising con rods

True.....however, if you use a modern synthetic oil there is no reason to need additional additives. Its just a waste of money. Synthetic oil already has excellent wear protection and clings to metal parts when the engine is off. I'd spend my $$ on a better oil rather than an additive with a cheaper oil.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

To each their own. I like synthetics, all I've used since Mobil 1 was introduced over 30years ago. I also use additives, a .5micron MoS2 is my favorite in the oil (Mr. Moly), soluble molebdenum in limited-slip diffs, MoS2 in regular diffs and transmissions, RedLine Diesel Water Wetter in coolant, RedLine Diesel Catalyst in fuel, ... we have Chemists, Engineers, Scientists, ... they help to break down compounds and their uses / applications for me. Additives are already in oil (and other fluids), and are limited by the cost/benefit for the manufacturer. If additional additives bring diminishing returns in the market, they will not be added. You might not be buying the best oil in the first place, RedLine synthetic for example is made with a polyolester basestock that Mobil and Amsoil don't use, ... there's always a better solution if you don't mind spending the money.

Now the caveat.
Some additives are good, some are bad. The biggest problem for most people without chemists etc. is to determine which additives will help and which will hurt. Anything that will break down in your engine due to chemical or thermal reactions, shouldn't be there. For example: Many additives contain PTFE (or Teflon) which breaks down into a gummy mess at a temperature lower than the combustion temperature in your engine. That tells me that it can cause rings to foul and stick, as it breaks down and gets scraped into the rings/pistons. Bad. So, it isn't IMO whether additives can be good for the engine (they can), but which ones are good or bad for the engine. In theory, Boron (in the engine silk product) is good provided it doesn't break down or displace adequate amounts of another necessary compound in the oil. I'll stick with MoS2 for my additive of choice, but the Boron does sound interesting. Tetra-ethyl lead (sp?) was another very good lubricant, now banned by the EPA for use in engines, but you used to be able to add that to your oil.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

The test is done on gears, not engine parts. That in and of itself should raise a red flag. The test is totally bogus.

The test is not run under compression, is not duplicating the pressures or heat generated in an engine, and provides no time for the additive and oil to mix under those conditions.

Now, I am not saying Lucas works. What I am saying is one has to be very naive to believe that test proved anything. They should also wonder, if it was true Lucas was harmful, why it has been so very successful.

YMMV

Spent a lot of time at one point lurking at the Bob's the Oil Guy site, and pretty much concluded the only oil additive worth bothering with is moly. I'm running with some LubroMoly MoS2 right now, fwiw. The rest are mostly snake oil or are meant for covering a problem that won't be fixed by oil. I think there is one elemental additive used by people running flat tappets or something like that, but it's not useful for our motors. Frequent changes with a properly rated oil (preferably a first class synth like Red Line or Motul, just IMO!) are the best thing you can do.

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1984 300D Light Blue/Blue
2006 C280 Silver/Black