How can I have AC repaired without being taken to the cleaners? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ah-kay · #16 05-01-2009, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

I do not blame you for being lazy with regards to the AC equipment on your car. It is pain to have to follow so many rules in order to get the physics correct.
I do not blame you for not wanting to spend money on your car. It is YOUR CAR.

But to post a 'cheap' lazy short term solution holding it out to others as a legit fix for their AC systems is behavior totally LACKING in CLASS and empathy for others.

I am sorry if my post offended any anyone. As I have said this is "How can I have AC repaired without being taken to the cleaners?". And it is the perogative of the reader to follow or otherwise. It may not be the 'politically correct' way to do things but it gets the job done.

Disclaimer: it is illegal to vent R134a

It is illegal under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act to knowingly vent substitute refrigerants during any service, maintenance, repair or disposal of an appliance.

So seek professional help and be prepared to be taken to the cleaners.

blackestate · #17 05-01-2009, 08:49 PM

In days of old, they used die in the system to look for leaks. Is that still used today? I always thought it was cool to see the leaks....

Matt L · #18 05-01-2009, 09:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blackestate

In days of old, they used die in the system to look for leaks. Is that still used today? I always thought it was cool to see the leaks....

Dye is typically added to new systems. Remove a service cap and look for a greenish residue inside; that's the dye.

As for venting the stuff, listen to Mr. Cohen. What happens when people take it so far with 134a that they just ban the stuff?

Remember when 134a first was mandated? The auto companies thought that they would make a killing because they were sure it would cost over a grand to convert an old car to 134a. Turns out that they were wrong.

But do you know what's coming down the pipe for the next-generation MVAC systems? It's R744. If you have even an inking of an idea that you could convert your system to R744, you're in a dream. It runs at 2000 PSI. However, there is a specific EPA exemption, allowing R744 used as a mobile refrigerant to be vented at will. No more recovery machines.

leathermang · #19 05-01-2009, 09:46 PM

Dye can be used....but is not recommended because of the potential for gumming up those small places mentioned before...
AND dye is not very effective in finding leaks up in confined hidden places like the lower side of the Txvalve OR more importantly in the Evaporator core...
Whereas the recommended procedure of 4 oz of R22 pressurized by dry nitrogen and using an electronic leak detector will find those in short order...
The evaporator leak was one of the problems on my 81 wagon that put the fix past my budget...

leathermang · #20 05-01-2009, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

As I have It may not be the 'politically correct' way to do things but it gets the job done.

I am not politically correct.

But attempting to be physicscally correct is the only way to have a chance that the system will give long ( and thus inexpensive ) service.
I know that is not a word but it just seemed to fit....

LuckyEddie · #21 05-01-2009, 10:30 PM

Leathermang

What is the best way to eliminate the evaperator when searching for a leak?? I put in half a can of 134 and pressurise the system to 160# with argon and still cannot find the leak. Vacume the system and fill with 134 it works fine for a day or so then nothing. No compersser cause of low pressure.
Anny help would be appreciated

leathermang · #22 05-01-2009, 10:43 PM

By ' eliminate' it...you mean test if for a leak ... ?
The EPA says it is OK to vent 4 oz of R22 when trying to find a leak in our systems...
You need to have the blower blowing when checking the vents for the evaporator leak... and be sure your electronic detector works with what you have in there to leak...
If your TXvalve is plugged you will need to be sure and put that test charge on both the high and low side...
But if that does not work... the FSM MB AC manual says to take out the txvalve and convert it into a ' service' valve... to be used for flushing , etc... you can reuse it for that...but you do need to get a new Txvalve to button the system back up..
But the use of that converted Txvalve might provide you the only real way to isolate the evaporator to check it for a leak... you will need to find some good caps for a couple of those openings on the Txvalve... this design is referred to as a ' block' valve.

Jerry Cohen · #23 05-01-2009, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ah-kay

I am sorry if my post offended any anyone. As I have said this is "How can I have AC repaired without being taken to the cleaners?". And it is the perogative of the reader to follow or otherwise. It may not be the 'politically correct' way to do things but it gets the job done.

Disclaimer: it is illegal to vent R134a

It is illegal under Section 608 of the Clean Air Act to knowingly vent substitute refrigerants during any service, maintenance, repair or disposal of an appliance.

So seek professional help and be prepared to be taken to the cleaners.

No offense taken, except for the taken to the cleaners part.

Yes, it's illegal and also wrong to vent R134, the last time I checked being politically correct had nothing to do with following the law and using common sense.

You forgot to mention the venting gas into the engine compartment of a running vehicle can create deadly mustard gas in some cases. You probably didn't know that, huh?

I just don't want an innocent person to read your posts, think that what you say is 100% correct, and get hurt.

Maybe you should edit your posts. Someone will probaly get frostbite, or much worse. Do you know what mustard gas does to a person?

You know that it can easily be fatal, right?

All this so you won't sweat?

::matthew · #24 05-01-2009, 11:31 PM

would you not need an open flame for refrigerant such as r12 or r134 to be in danger of releasing mustard gas?

Not a lot of open flames under the hood of a typical MB diesel

Jerry Cohen · #25 05-01-2009, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ::matthew

would you not need an open flame for refrigerant such as r12 or r134 to be in danger of releasing mustard gas?

Not a lot of open flames under the hood of a typical MB diesel

Right about a diesel, how about a gasoline powered car?

People do still drive them, right.

Plenty of flame there, in the combustion chamber. Trust me it can happen.

::matthew · #26 05-01-2009, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerry Cohen

Right about a diesel, how about a gasoline powered car?

People do still drive them, right.

Plenty of flame there, in the combustion chamber. Trust me it can happen.

since it decomposes at 217 degrees celcius, I doubt too much would be coming out the tail pipe. What exactly is the danger here?

If you're going to try to scare people with this, it seems you ought to qualify the dangers a bit better. I'm not saying you're wrong, but I really don't see this being a serious issue.

leathermang · #27 05-01-2009, 11:48 PM

Actually, the method of testing for a leak 30 years ago involved an open flame. The instructions said to be ''safe'' about avoiding breathing it....

Matt L · #28 05-02-2009, 10:22 AM

And of course, don't smoke around any refrigerants.

Jerry Cohen · #29 05-02-2009, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ::matthew

since it decomposes at 217 degrees celcius, I doubt too much would be coming out the tail pipe. What exactly is the danger here?

If you're going to try to scare people with this, it seems you ought to qualify the dangers a bit better. I'm not saying you're wrong, but I really don't see this being a serious issue.

I'm not trying to scare people, just to make newbies cognizant of the real dangers of which I speak.

If your going to try to discredit me, why don't you prove me wrong? Instead of accusing me of trying to scare people in a vain attempt to to blur the facts.

Jerry Cohen · #30 05-02-2009, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Actually, the method of testing for a leak 30 years ago involved an open flame. The instructions said to be ''safe'' about avoiding breathing it....

I remember using one of those, a propane torch of sorts. When the flame turned green you found your leak. A pretty dangerous tool, I had respect for it.