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  #1  
Old 04-20-2008, 09:31 AM
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The effort you take to photo these jobs you have to do, then organize it into a most helpful DIY is so very much appreciated!!
I hope we all do a good job letting you know that.
The DIY I'm most looking forward to is when you find a "new" engine for the wagon......
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  #2  
Old 04-20-2008, 10:07 AM
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Other threads related to axles replacement

As usual Great Job, Dave.

Let me add a couple of links to this subject that may be helpful for people.
Another axle replacement link from M-Shop member Jeremy5848.

W123 axle R&R job--some questions?

Differential replacement pictorial from DeliveryValve (me) - scroll down to post #20.

Differential Swap
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Last edited by DeliveryValve; 04-20-2008 at 10:24 AM.
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  #3  
Old 04-20-2008, 10:15 AM
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Thanks for your effort on the write-up Dave. Excellent as usual.

In photo #26, there appears to be some tape on your sockets. Is this for quick identification or is there some trick you are doing (like using the tape to help keep the bolts in the sockets or something)?
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  #4  
Old 04-20-2008, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
Thanks for your effort on the write-up Dave. Excellent as usual.

In photo #26, there appears to be some tape on your sockets. Is this for quick identification or is there some trick you are doing (like using the tape to help keep the bolts in the sockets or something)?
I used electrical tape to identify my metric vs. SAE tools. I have a complete set of both and it helps in the long run. But after a while the tape does peal off so I'm no longer following that procedure. I'm also not using the SAE as much so I find it's no longer necessary.

Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
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  #5  
Old 07-09-2008, 09:59 AM
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Excellent write up. I copy and paste these "how to" articles into Word and convert them to a PDF file, then burn to CD.
One of these days I will buy a digital camera and post some of my own "how to" articles. In the meantime, it's difficult to set up a 4x5 view camera under the vehicle.
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  #6  
Old 07-29-2008, 10:00 AM
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Years ago, when replacing a axle half-shaft in a 240d I couldn't get the old one out, because it wouldn't clear the suspension. After a bit of calling around I talked to a mechanic at the Mercedes dealership in Bangor (Maine). He said that the trick was to unbolt the part (can't remember exactly what) that limited how far down the suspension could travel. As I remember (this was at least 10 years ago) I supported the outer suspension with a jack while the chassis was on stands, then unbolted the travel limiter, and lowered the jack and suspension a little (maybe an inch or two) until the half-shaft's outboard end could clear.
Dunno if this is specific to certain years or models.
SEO
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  #7  
Old 07-29-2008, 10:04 AM
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Reading #33 above reminded me of the process. It was the shock absorber that limits downward travel. Not quite as swanky as my beloved Volvo 122 station wagons, that use a heavy canvas strap to keep the rear axle trailing arms from dropping down too far and letting the coil springs fall out on the road.
SEO
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  #8  
Old 12-12-2008, 05:59 PM
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First, I'd just like to say that posts like this make me a believer in the power of the internet. Thank you Dave for all the work it took to do this.

After doing this job myself, I'd like to add a couple things:

1. Do make sure you actually have all the tools you'll need. A 14mm allen socket is not a common size, and none of my local auto parts stores carried them. I had to get it through Harbor Freight. Also, I didn't have a 22mm socket and had to use a 7/8"

2. Mine is a 300TD, which has a differently shaped fuel tank, making the room behind the differential bushing even tighter. My wrench wouldn't fit in the space, so I had to use a breaker bar, which was slow going! I noticed that in the re-installation procedure, the steps are reversed, so I would like to suggest doing step (photo) #13 before #11 & 12. Then you can drop the differential a bit to make getting at those bolts easier.

Good luck!
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  #9  
Old 01-19-2009, 07:25 PM
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Hi Marshall,

Did you use the Advance Auto Parts´ Axles?

I have a 1982 300D that needs a new rear axle.
I would like to hear people´s experiences on aftermarket rear Axels. At AAuto they offered me the #NCV 48998 ($86 lifetime warranty) instead of the SKU # 20870644 posted by Dave. Does anyone have experience with the NCV 48998 on their car?

Thanks,

jarce
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  #10  
Old 01-19-2009, 07:32 PM
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I have used three of the axles from Advance Auto, the first one about 15 months ago and I probably have 15,000 miles on it and it is doing well. I sold the 84 which I put 2 axles on but sold the car. I know he is putting plenty of miles on that car and I know i would have heard from him if an axle failed.
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  #11  
Old 11-28-2009, 01:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burntcloth View Post
First, I'd just like to say that posts like this make me a believer in the power of the internet. Thank you Dave for all the work it took to do this.

After doing this job myself, I'd like to add a couple things:

1. Do make sure you actually have all the tools you'll need. A 14mm allen socket is not a common size, and none of my local auto parts stores carried them. I had to get it through Harbor Freight. Also, I didn't have a 22mm socket and had to use a 7/8"

2. Mine is a 300TD, which has a differently shaped fuel tank, making the room behind the differential bushing even tighter. My wrench wouldn't fit in the space, so I had to use a breaker bar, which was slow going! I noticed that in the re-installation procedure, the steps are reversed, so I would like to suggest doing step (photo) #13 before #11 & 12. Then you can drop the differential a bit to make getting at those bolts easier.

Good luck!
here is what I did removing a Diff from a 300TD.
There really isn`t any room between the fuel tank and the head of the wrench to get to the 22mm bolts that holt the mount to the snout of the Diff.
that is the TD fuel tank the wrench is bumping into. with a 300D the fuel tank is in the trunk, so not a problem

So I removed the 4 13mm bolts that holds the mount to the body.
then lowered it down with a jack.

I used a lug bolt in the rear rotor, stuck my prybar in a hole on the mount to the lug bolt. then used my breaker bar and a 22mm socket to remove the mount. worked very well, and had no problem with it slipping, and I really had to crank down to break the bolts loose.

Charlie
Attached Thumbnails
W123 A How to, replacing rear axles.-removing-85td-288-differential-9-5-09-008-medium-small-.jpg   W123 A How to, replacing rear axles.-removing-85td-288-differential-9-5-09-019-medium-.jpg   W123 A How to, replacing rear axles.-removing-85td-288-differential-9-5-09-029-medium-small-.jpg   W123 A How to, replacing rear axles.-removing-85td-288-differential-9-5-09-030-medium-small-.jpg  
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  #12  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:38 PM
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Getting ready to try the axle shaft

Thank you much for the great pic's and detailed instruction, my mind is much more at ease (at the thought of tackling this).
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  #13  
Old 07-15-2013, 12:08 AM
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I'm going to throw some things into the knowledgebase that I learned doing my own half shaft replacement:
Get yourself the special tool that fits into the oil drain and oil fill plugs and break these plugs loose before removing differential bolts.
It is good to have multiple jackstands, wood blocks, cinder blocks, bottle hydraulic jack, half inch drive deep sockets, half inch breakover bar, hook for C clips etc... for this job. You may need to lower differential to get at the differential mount bolts even with 3/8" drive short sockets.
Job requires lifting and lowering differential to facilitate repair - I used a bottle hydraulic jack for this purpose with a piece of wood to protect differential.
Get those C clips back in before attaching the wheel side of the half shaft and reattaching the caliper. Check for shims and shim as necessary for a snug fit. Probably a good idea to keep shims with original vehicle, shaft and side. Lift differential and lower wheel side as much as possible to facilitate easy removal and insertion of half shaft. Beware of shaft resting on exhaust as it may break your exhaust mount doughnuts.
I'd use Cinder Blocks to chock the wheels due to the high angle the rear of the vehicle will be at. Safety first!

Just my 2cents.
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  #14  
Old 04-20-2008, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
As usual Great Job, Dave.

Let me add a couple of links to this subject that may be helpful for people.
Another axle replacement link from M-Shop member Jeremy5848.

W123 axle R&R job--some questions?

Differential replacement pictorial from DeliveryValve (me) - scroll down to post #20.

Differential Swap
Great posts, lets see if we can get our Moderators to make a wiki out of the differential replacement post for the DIY

Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car
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  #15  
Old 04-20-2008, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmorrison View Post
Great posts, lets see if we can get our Moderators to make a wiki out of the differential replacement post for the DIY

Dave
Thanks Dave! And thanks for the suggestion!
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