These pans seem to be pretty resilient in my experience, My DD 240 had a blown engine and mildly dented pan. I got the car with a 617 that had been in a wrecked car, it had grass/mud caked over a crushed in pan. I popped the pan, found the pump pickup tube (cast aluminum) had busted off. Pulled off all broken parts, rinsed out oil pump intake on good engine & scrubbed out old 616 pan. Used permatex aircraft sealer with old gasket on 616 pan & used 616 oil pickup tube, been going fine, leak free and great oil pressure, for 2 yrs so far and running on the 617...

I recently hit a nice rock that had surfaced itself in my gravel driveway, damn thing made a nice kink in the pan, now I'll have to restraighten it again next service...DOH!

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

I will not have a pan in time for the next big repair - Sounds like I will definitely be following in your footsteps. What did use to bang it out? What surface? any JB weld necessary?

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All I can say is that the stupid 603 pan cracked the first time I hit it on something, no question of denting.

Whatever the difference is, thank your lucky stars that your pans are all so forgiving as to "bend" and "dent" instead of "Split and dump oil".

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~Michael S.~
Past cars:

1986 300SDL
1987 300SDL
1982 240D
1982 300SD


Current:

1987 300SDL

Update: Banging out the pan via wood and hammer was very successful against carpet and concrete. Keep JB weld on hand.

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I missed your post earlier, else I'd replied sooner. I used a ballpeen and wood, pretty much the same as it sounds like you did, I also used the socket end of a 3/8 drive extension & a small brass drift to help a little with the corners. Wasn't worried over scratching the paint on the pan, so I was on my concrete floor. I don't know how severely your's was dented, I didn't have a need for any JB weld. So long as the flange wasn't distorted to begin with and you don't prop it up on anything by the flange during straightening, it should seal up fine with that sealer. I don't know if the 616 and 617 N/A oil pumps are the same (never compared #'s while my pan was off), but I do know the lower pan and pickup tube assy's are the same.

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

I ran across that once, it was a Moroso oil pan that a friend asked me to fix, he had lent his shoebox Nova to a buddy of his that hit the pan on a curb.....nice driving......
It as a small hairline fix, I said no problem......got out the torch and brazing rod....chased the friggin crack a bit, got out the mig welder, chased it more....finally got it, about 2 hours later and all kinds of spiders of it everywhere. It was some kind of weird hardened metal that didn't like flexing or repairs......

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Chris
64 190D R.I.P.
80 240D W/617 engine -for sale
82 240D -for sale

I only mentioned the JB weld in case something happened to someone else. Mine went flawlessly and held oil w/ no leaks and I used no sealant of any kind upon install.

There was a humungous dent clear across the entire pan (perpendicular to engine length) pushing up against the oil pump rubber buffer - even had wear marks on the pan from the rubber.

Thats about the only thing that went well that day,, along with a coolant flush.

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if i saw this earlier.. i have an oil pan that has no use i believe it is in near perfect condition....it could have been yours for shipping and a few bucks

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-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto