95 e300d engine mount failure - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

connerm · #1 05-05-2008, 08:33 PM

Just turned 205,000 today. Noticed some brown oil spots on the ground-not black like diesel engine oil. The top of the passenger side mount showed a few streaks where the hydraulic fluid leaked out. I guess I know what I'm doing this weekend. They were supposed to be replaced when I bought it at 112,000. Looks pretty straight forward. I have ramps, good jack, wrenches, time, etc. Any pitfalls?

TMAllison · #2 05-05-2008, 09:20 PM

Looks like it is the same as the W210 mounts. Is pretty easy. Shouldn't take more than 1.5 hours. The mount with the rubber cover goes on the left beneath the IP.

Just be cautious not to jack the engine too high our you will put pressure on the exhaust and or fan. I only had to lift mine 1/2" to get eh out.

Had to use a universal attachment to get to the right (top bolts) because of the turbo, etc. Not sure if you will have exhaust stuff in your way or not. The left (top bolts) I did from beneath (watch those starter leads

).

Jeremy5848 · #3 05-05-2008, 10:09 PM

Your '95 should be similar to my '96 as the engines are the same. I didn't have to come anywhere near the starter (short circuit concern) but disconnected the battery anyway. The top bolts are actually harder to get to than the bottom. Note the orientation of the mount as it comes out so you can get the new one in the same way.

On the right side I couldn't get a socket onto the bolt head -- the exhaust manifold was in the way. The same engine in the W124 chassis may not have that problem. I ended up using a box-end wrench and a neighbor with a long screwdriver to add leverage.

The left side was easier -- I went down through the intake manifold with a long 3/8" drive extension (1/2" wouldn't fit) to an adapter and universal on a 1/2" drive socket.

The bolts underneath are easy with a socket and a short extension.

I put a heavy piece of plywood under the oil pan and jacked up the engine with a bottle jack, once the bolts were loose, just enough to get the mounts out and in.

I made the mistake of not realizing what the rubber cover was for and left it off, had to go back for a second R&R.

The rubber cover protects the left-hand mount from diesel (and especially biodiesel) spills.

Jeremy

connerm · #4 05-06-2008, 09:17 PM

Purchased two new engine mounts at the dealer. $270 including tax. Yikes. They had the right side in stock. I'll pick up the left side tomorrow. Jacked up the car and put ramps under front wheels. (front bumper cowling hits the ramp) Put jackstands under jack points for insurance. Jacked up the engine slightly. Easy to remove the passenger side. Drivers side is a different story. Since I am going to do the glow plugs this weekend (pray for me), I removed the crossover and intake manifold. Removing the engine mount with that stuff out of the way was easy. A compact impact wrench with a wobble would have worked perfectly in there.

About what torque value is the engine mount bolts? They were tight, but not lug nut tight. Any help is appreciated.