1999 E300TD transmission service - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

todieselornot · #16 09-20-2008, 11:27 AM

Never mind previous post. I found the part on Fastlane.

ramtony · #17 09-20-2008, 12:02 PM

do you changed the trans oil once at 60k miles, or is it every 60k miles?
and can you use the topsider vacuum machine to suck the oil from the top?
reason I ask I purchase my car with 145k miles it's at 158k miles now and have no clue, if this service was ever done.

TMAllison · #18 09-20-2008, 02:10 PM

Filled for life was done away with. The factory rec is to change the fuild once at 39k/miles currently.

I believe changing it every 50-60k thereafter is probably appropriate.

dukegrad98 · #19 09-21-2008, 11:49 AM

If in doubt, change it, change it, change it.

I recently did a $3500 trans and torque converter job on my W210 when it failed in a fairly dramatic fashion. The trans fluid had been changed 40k miles before the failure, on a 194,000-miles car. That's probably the expected life of a tranny in the first place, but still...maintain and get as many miles as you can before you pony up a third of the car's value to get the drivetrain back in order!

Cheers, John

graysilm · #20 09-29-2008, 07:23 PM

Well I started to do my fluid/filter change today and boy did I screw up. I was putting the pan back on and I had my torque wrench set to 8 foot pounds. I was screwing in one bolt and wham it snapped. Now this really sucks. Hopefully I will be able to get it out with some vise grips and not have to drill.

graysilm · #21 09-29-2008, 08:10 PM

Luckily I got the broken bolt out. Anyhow according to the Mercedes repair DVD the torque on the pan bolts is 8Nm. The DIY off of this site says the torque 106 inch pounds. When I convert 8Nm to inch pounds I get around 70.8 inch pounds. Evidently either the diy is wrong or the DVD is wrong. Now I am wondering if I need to tap all my holes and use all new bolts.

aklim · #22 09-29-2008, 09:45 PM

I haven't found a manual except WIS which is the MB publication.

I changed mine at every 60K and use MB fluid. You can drain the pan easily because of the drain valve and if you are lucky, your torque converter has a drain plug on it. Drain it and change the filter too.

I am not sure how to DIY since you don't have a dipstick or a way to check the temp at the point where you need to be. You need to get it to a certain temp that the SDS will tell you and then you use a special dipstick to check the level. Some have said you can use a thermal gun to check the pan temp but that is certainly not the temp at the point the ECM sees it.

nhdoc · #23 09-29-2008, 09:48 PM

I have never used a torque wrench on the pan bolts. Their torque isn't critical to the seal since the holders "bottom out" so all I do is tighten them by hand just past snug...nothing scientific. I can tell you that I never would tighten them anywhere near a torque that would come close to snapping one...it is just not necessary that they be that tight.

aklim · #24 09-29-2008, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nhdoc

I have never used a torque wrench on the pan bolts. Their torque isn't critical to the seal since the holders "bottom out" so all I do is tighten them by hand just past snug...nothing scientific.

I can tell you that I never would tighten them anywhere near a torque that would come close to snapping one...it is just not necessary that they be that tight.

German torque values then? Guten Tite?

I think the rubber gasket would be crushed and squished out before that happens. Which might be why they published the torque values.

nhdoc · #25 09-29-2008, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aklim

German torque values then? Guten Tite?

I think the rubber gasket would be crushed and squished out before that happens. Which might be why they published the torque values.

There is NO WAY to crush the gaskets on these pans by overtorquing. The small clip-pieces which the bolts go through "bottom out" at a prescribed gap so the pan gasket will never be too tight or too loose...it is not like the pan gaskets of old. It is quite ingenious and the only hazard is breaking or stripping the bolts but you should not have to tighten them anywhere near that tight to get the clip-pieces to bottom out. I'd guess something like 1/4 turn past finger tight would do it.

Hatterasguy · #26 09-29-2008, 10:22 PM

The bolts on my trans pan bottom out, so I just use a 1/4 drive until they stop. The 722.6 pan looks the same, and after reading above it seems MB didn't change anything.

You can see why a MB costs 3-4 times what a regular car costs, just did the trans fluid on my sisters GM. POS.

You get what you pay for.

graysilm · #27 09-30-2008, 11:17 AM

well I went to the MB dealership parts counter today to get a pan bolt. they don't have them in stock so I have to wait until thursday for that stupid bolt. So now I'll be driving my Jeep CJ7 around for the next few days and I don't have the top on it so I hope it doesn't rain.

nhdoc · #28 09-30-2008, 11:22 AM

You ought to be able to find a replacement at the hardware department of the home depot. There is nothing special about the bolt. IIRC it is just a cap screw, metric thread. Take a sample with you to test the thread in the display thread-checker and buy what you need.

graysilm · #29 04-14-2016, 01:09 PM

So this is a really old thread but its time to change my tranny fluid and filter again. Last time I used the 722.6 fluid. I cannot find it anymore. Any recommendations on what fluid I can use? I hate changing to a new fluid because I hear horror stories of failure but it looks like I have no choice

shertex · #30 04-14-2016, 01:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by graysilm

So this is a really old thread but its time to change my tranny fluid and filter again. Last time I used the 722.6 fluid. I cannot find it anymore. Any recommendations on what fluid I can use? I hate changing to a new fluid because I hear horror stories of failure but it looks like I have no choice

Get some Shell ATF 134 from a Shell distributor...buy a case and it comes to about $6 a quart.