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  #31  
Old 06-12-2008, 11:29 PM
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I ordered a new cylinder from the dealer for under $60.00, and following advice from guys on this forum, replaced it in less than 10 minutes. You should consider doing it your self. If I can do it, anyone can!

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  #32  
Old 06-12-2008, 11:32 PM
Craig
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$60 is a very good price, I think I paid around $100 (including a key; maybe two keys, I forget).
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  #33  
Old 06-12-2008, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimZ View Post
This reminds me of a newbie question I've always had... When my car rolled off the boat from Germany, besides the valet key, was there only one key? I currently have a normal looking key for the ignition and a flat edge key - I assume the original - for the doors and trunk. When the car was new, was this flat edge key supposed to work in the ignition, too?
They came with a valet key and two master keys.
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  #34  
Old 06-13-2008, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
Everytime you do something yourself the involved stress increase your self confidence to no end. Thats exactly how we learn. Enough things tackled and you become self confident even. Little or no actual stress up to a certain point is experienced. I guess this means you are in control. Most people never do get started yet it can start with something as straightforward as changing an ignition tumbler out.

If a job is too involved most members will mention it based on your experience. With this site your car should be able to miss most mechanical labour bills if you wish. The retained money usually always finds another place so it is not really a problem.
'
Also it does make you miss the times when you are ripped off bad on occasion. They leave a real sour taste when you are aware of them. Most people are neither aware or try to justify what happened or bought the B.S. There is enough out there to go around. Thats how it all thrives it seems.

There are so many ways you can justify doing it yourself. My personal favorite is you almost always save enough to pay for any of the new tools you aquired. You pay for them the first time you do a job with the labour and parts savings. After that they are basically free. For the rest of your life.

Also your incidental knowledge has to expand. This type of car is probably as good as it gets to get started with. For most owners the garage option is not a good choice with a vehicle this old anyways.

Next thing to become familiar with is how to source parts economically to meet your needs. Learning how to equate quality at the same time.

Worthwhile in my opinion and you can refine it up to any stage you want. It in many ways is an art form. The other part is you will eventually influence others to be more self sufficient as well. Absolutly best of all these aquired skills are transferable to other areas of your life. They all tend to become cumulative.
Anyways glad the change out went well. I thought it should. I felt as I always do. If you got enough encouragement to do it yourself you would reap the rewards in some fashion. In my opinion you did. Congratulations and remember most people out there do not have the backup this site presents. That is also priceless in my opinion.
I appreciate the encouragement. Next thing you know, I'm gonna be doing brakes and suspension work But first I need tools

I have no problem taking anything apart, it's just getting things back together without breaking something that usually worries me. That's okay, because sooner or later, I'll get a camera and document my adventures

Thanks again!
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  #35  
Old 06-13-2008, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_Nate View Post
I appreciate the encouragement. Next thing you know, I'm gonna be doing brakes and suspension work But first I need tools

I have no problem taking anything apart, it's just getting things back together without breaking something that usually worries me. That's okay, because sooner or later, I'll get a camera and document my adventures

Thanks again!
you should already have the tools necessary to change the brake pads on your car, and flush the brakes too, it's worth it. for that you will need a 8 or 10mm box end wrench. I would buy a set of gearwrenches in metric, they are awesome and well worth it... DON"T buy the store brand of gear wrenches... very annoying!
to do the brakes right, you should really have a floor jack and a pair of jack stands. but you can do it one wheel at a time with the car's trunk tools.
all that's required to get the pads out is a screwdriver and a nail or those needle nose pliers again...
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My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
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  #36  
Old 06-13-2008, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
you should already have the tools necessary to change the brake pads on your car, and flush the brakes too, it's worth it. for that you will need a 8 or 10mm box end wrench. I would buy a set of gearwrenches in metric, they are awesome and well worth it... DON"T buy the store brand of gear wrenches... very annoying!
to do the brakes right, you should really have a floor jack and a pair of jack stands. but you can do it one wheel at a time with the car's trunk tools.
all that's required to get the pads out is a screwdriver and a nail or those needle nose pliers again...
I have access to a floor jack and jackstands when I get back up to MA. We also have a bit of tools, but I'll probably get a set of my own (Craftsman, perhaps?)

When I do my brakes, I want to put new rotors on as well...and fix the e-brake (which doesn't do a whole lot at the moment).

If I do a lot of stuff myself, I can rationalize more tools (and my girlfriend can't argue with the money I spend )

I think something like this would be well within my price range. Should I find a torque wrench, too? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934239000P?vName=Tools&cName=Tool+Sets&sName=Mechanics+Tool+Sets
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1987 300D Turbo
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262,715 and counting
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  #37  
Old 06-13-2008, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy_Nate View Post
I have access to a floor jack and jackstands when I get back up to MA. We also have a bit of tools, but I'll probably get a set of my own (Craftsman, perhaps?)
Craftsman are fine tools! and they are made here in Gastonia NC...

Quote:
When I do my brakes, I want to put new rotors on as well...and fix the e-brake (which doesn't do a whole lot at the moment).
an impact wrench is best tool to have for changing the rotors, but if you don't have one, be sure and bolt the hub back on the tire after you have pulled it from the car so you have more to work with for loosening the bolts back there.

Quote:
If I do a lot of stuff myself, I can rationalize more tools (and my girlfriend can't argue with the money I spend )
um, you don't actually believe there is any way to prevent a woman from arguing with you over money you spend do you?


Quote:
I think something like this would be well within my price range. Should I find a torque wrench, too? http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934239000P?vName=Tools&cName=Tool+Sets&sName=Mechanics+Tool+Sets
ooh that's a good set, I have the same one... well most of it...
and for a torque wrench, I would get a kobalt from Lowe's if I were you. and get a tube of loctite Blue paste for the bolts on the rotors!
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #38  
Old 06-13-2008, 08:41 PM
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All depends on your financial circumstances what and how to buy tools. Or the old expression is there are more than several ways to skin a cat. I always have to add a disclaimer when using certain expressions.

Anyways you require initially a set of metric allen key sockets. Three eighths drive ratchet with deep and shallow sockets. Assortment of screwdrivers. Plus a set of metric hand wrenches that feel comforatable in your hand.

I personally like the longer variety of wrench chrome plated. A cheap digital meter for twenty dollars or less and learn to use it. If you become familiar with it. Future savings on many electrical things is unbelievable.

I would put off buying certain things like a hand vaccum pump and gauge until the need arises. A cheap but careful selection of harbour freight 1/2 inch power bar and rachet plus a set of metric impact sockets is useful as well. Very hard to impossible to damage them or wear them in any fashion when used as a hand tool over an air driven impact wrench.

If you are comforatable with the price of the sears set thats okay too. It does include a good assortment of sae size tools as well as metric. From time to time you need those as well. I just seem to use mine less and less but I still need them.
Pliers like needle nose and diagonal cutters plus more conventional types are an absolute requirement as well as a good vice grip brand vice grip plier. Never ever buy another brand of those. I have yet to find another companies copy of them that are anywhere near their strength. Keep an eye on ebay for tools as well. Plus occasionally yard type sales etc turn up good stuff.

You could mention casually to the girlfriend. We saved 105.00 labour when I changed out the lock asembley on the car. That was about 1/2 the cost of the sears tool set. The next small job if I do it instead of paying labour the tools are basically free after that or even present a surplus af cash. Use what works. Woman do tend to respond well to good financial decisions. Makes the next aquisition of tools easier to sell as well.

Actually my wife put it all together herself years ago. She would rather see me buy tools than not. Fully aware they more than pay for themselves. Usually many many times over and over. Then when I kick the bucket she gets the salvage value I suppose.
I do not know the salvage value of all those tools aquired over a lifetime but it is probably substantial. My only request was for her not to give them to the next guy that comes along after me. She told me not to concern myself about that. Harry cannot really repair anything.

Last edited by barry123400; 06-13-2008 at 08:53 PM.
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  #39  
Old 06-13-2008, 09:29 PM
Craig
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My wife likes me to have tools so I spend more time under a car, and less time in the house.
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  #40  
Old 06-13-2008, 09:44 PM
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That may be an additional stratagy of my wifes as well. Never considered it before. .

Last edited by barry123400; 06-14-2008 at 12:03 AM.
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  #41  
Old 06-14-2008, 12:19 AM
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Got my tools ordered today. I found another set for the same price with two more wrenches...odd. Fine by me . It even had $25 off (of every mechanics tool set) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00934240000P?keyword=00934240000&sLevel=0

My girlfriend was good about it. She even helped me compare all the different tool sets. She's really good with numbers (PhD candidate in Physics), so, all I really had to say is if I saved that much money on rekeying the ignition...just imagine the other jobs I need to do... No resistance whatsoever.

PS. I should have access to an impact wrench in our shop. I'm pretty sure I've seen one around. Not sure about the metric impact sockets, but I can always buy a couple if I need. Much cheaper than the impact wrench itself.

I'm also armed with a set of 8" digital calipers from back when I worked in QC. They're simply amazing They don't call them super calipers for nothing
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W124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009
262,715 and counting
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  #42  
Old 06-14-2008, 11:26 AM
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Depends on the year. My '91s came with a valet key (no red dot), two master keys (red dot), and one key without the plastic head (wallet key).

I don't know about your '87, I never bought an '87 new.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
They came with a valet key and two master keys.
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  #43  
Old 12-22-2008, 11:56 AM
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OOPS, I meant to post this on another thread, similar discussion.....

Hmmm, brass dust? I wounder if that's my problem.

My key does not want to turn. It's like the cylinder is jammed. If I jiggle it a bit, or a lot it will then suddenly turn.

My car has 450,000 miles and the key that came with it appears to be brass and very worn (lots of miles).

I got new keys from the dealer, nice sharp steel.

But is sounds like brass keys wear and the shavings or minute bits of brass over the years jam the lock cylinder.

Can you just remove the cylinder and tap or blow out some of the filling to free up the lock instead of installing a new one?
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RIP: 1984 300TDT, 1982 300TDT, 1984 190D 2.2, 1992 300D 2.5, 1987 300TDT, 1982 Maxima LD28, 1983 Maxima LD28, Isuzu C223 P'ups X3, 1983 Holiday Rambler 6.2 Banks turbo diesel, 1984 Winnebago LeSharo 2.1 TD, 1985 Allegro 6.5

Last edited by odie; 12-22-2008 at 12:06 PM.
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  #44  
Old 03-27-2009, 03:50 PM
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Hard time to unscrew collar

Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
you will need a pair of needle nose pliers, and a small allen wrench or a large paper clip.
that's it.
put the key in, turn it to the second click, put the paper clip in the hole above the key and press until you feel the button release, then unscrew the collar with the needle nose pliers, then pop out the tumbler, and put the new one back in, put the collar back on and remove the paper clip.
that's it in a nutshell.
I asked the dealer how much to do it when I picked up my tumbler, and they quoted me 300.00

I did it myself.
I did ecaxtly as above. Used thin brazing wire, filed both ends 60 degrees inside, turned to second click, inserted the wire in both holes till it bottomed in but can not unscrew the the collar even with the needle nose plier. I put the needle nose plier ends in the collar holes and tried to unscrew it but will not budge. Am I not doing it right?

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