The front Lower Control Arm bushings did not want the “pop out” or even beat out. I finally threaded one side with a ¾ fine tap and threaded a bolt in so I could beat it out from the opposite side with a punch.
When that one was beat out I drilled out some of the rubber from the inside of the other bushing to release the tension so I could beat that one out. I did get them both out.
Here are the pics of the reason why they were so hard to get out:
Heavy rust wash holding the bushings in.

After cleaning with a Needle scaler

I would have replace this Arm as alot of metal is missing from the bore; except that I have to get the car on the road by the weekend.
I painted the inside with Rustolum and when that was dried I coated the inside with Silicone Sealant and installed the bushings.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

so is it worth the effort to repair LCA's or should one just purchase them?

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i usually just burn the bushings out with a homemade propane torch or a oxy cetlen torch, much faster. It smells but it gets the job done quickly

they are still useable.

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1986 300SDL, 211K,Dealership serviced its whole life
1991 190E 2.6(120k)
1983 300D(300k)
1977 300D(211k)

This is my first time changing them. Also I was OK with threading the inside and putting the bolt in and beating it out from the opossite side as I the Tap is part of my tool collection and the bolt was left over from anothe project so I did not have to buy them.
From what I have read on the this Forum it is not normal for there to be that much trouble removing them. I believe mine has an unusual amout of rust inside (the car came from the East coast some where).

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am not saying it is not worth the effort and you should just buy a new ones.
Others on this Forum have not had so much trouble getting the bushings out. I think that in my case they are extremely rusted and there has to be metal missing from the bore that that turned into the rust that I removed.

You should pull the arms off; pull the bushings out and decide from there if you need new ones.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I always buy arms with bushings. I'd recommend the same when you get back from your trip, etc.

I will be reusing the arms. Ounce they are installed as long as they are working OK I will leave them there. No sense to pull them if they are working.
I bought a complete front suspension kit thinking that I would have worn ball joints and ect. But they are all tight. I think I will leave the old one on there also.
I will pull the upper control arms off today; but if they are good I will also re-use them.
I am begining to think the the prior owner had some suspension parts replaced but did not change the Control Arm Bushings; maybe because they were afraid to mess with the adjustment on the bolt.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Mine had a slight coating of rust in them too. I cleaned them up and hit them with a zinc spray to prevent future rust.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

More heavy rust found on tip of Sway Bar.


On the Upper Control Arm the Ball Joint is tight and the rubber is OK so I will reuse it.

At 11:43 AM here in Californa we had a pretty decent Earthquake that lasted a longer then they normal. At least my car stayed on the Jack Stand.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Wow, I never thought of the peril of being in an earthquake under a car!!!

Glad it stayed upright. I hope you are putting together a series of these pics for a pictorial after you finish.

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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

Except for the excessive rust in those 2 areas (and marking the aligment adjustment on the Lower Control Arm Bolt before taking this off in hopes it will be ok when you are done) everything I am doing is straight forward and there are several threads already so I did not plan to take pictures.

The only problem I have had is I am using a generic spring compressor (has hooks that hook from the outside). When the spring was compressed I decided to grab on of the compressors any yank the spring out.
This was a bad idea (I should have known better). It pulled the comressor 45 degrees from where it was supposed to be and the spring tension bent the threaded rod on the compressor.
I decided that I would just buy a new set but 2 Harbor Freight stores were out of stock. So I replaced the threaded rod on both compressors. I will be using it by the end of the day but will be more careful.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I just did these procedures and am working on a pictorial. All the info is already on this board, but it would be nice to have it all in one spot.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Yikes. I recommend the correct type, it worked like a charm.

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine

Yes, it is nice to have the correct tools to do a job. The gernic compressor would have worked fine If I had not pulled on it.
With my fixed generic spring compressor I have the one side done except for connecting the tie rod.
Tomarrow will finish up on that side and start on the other.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Picture's worth 1000 words

Not my pictures

Attached Thumbnails

   

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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver

1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver

1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine