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"LOOKS" like the MB/Pierburg
EDIT:
Well GSXR has called it again! "LOOKS" are deceiving (as is reality) in this case. |
I bet it's the cheap Chinese pump sold on eBay, probably from BATP. I would have sworn there was a guy who bought one of these because it was "cheap", and it failed within a year, but I can't locate that thread. Here's a little more information on the BATP pump:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/224598-strange-om603-vacuum-pump-brand.html I wouldn't put one on my car. FYI, the lowest price I know of for a Pierburg pump, actually a genuine Mercdes-Benz dealership pump, is from Parts.com ($248 plus S&H, which may be ~$25, but still worth it). ElAuto is $299, ********* is $312, ******** wants $329, Bimby is $340, FastLane is $352, and ******** is $393 (!). MB dealership list price is $360, btw. :hat: |
1 Attachment(s)
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:scholar: http://www.w124performance.com/image...mp_gaskets.jpg |
Parts.com
Shipping on 000 230 31 65
$37.++ USD AND $2.00 "Handling" Still better than crying over your dead engine. |
I nought an even cheaper pump (it was £35 in the UK, about $70) that had standard bolts on the front cover rather than torx bolts. The first one I got blew up, put a big dent in its cover but luckily didnt take out the engine, only my power brakes going 80mph, eeek.
The second one I've had for 5 months now, and is still going strong, pulls a very strong vacuum. Only problem is the head sheared off the bottom bolt, so it now leaks a little bit of oil. One day I may take it out and try to fix that, or just replace the dam gasket with my old non-dam, as I think that should fix it. |
Bravery
Tombance,
Do you get nasty little e-mails from your engine about endangering it's Timing Chain? |
Nope. And anyway, if my timing chain was to let go I could probably part my car out and make more than I paid for it in the first place. In the UK and Europe diesel W124's are a lot more plentiful than where you are.
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There was a metal gasket used on my engine when I dismantled it, so I used a new metal one putting the pump back on.
I have a 603.961 engine. Should I have not used the metal one? |
I use metal ring gasket and basket because Dave keeps taking the dam gaskets that come with my Pierburg pumps. I think I even reused the ring gasket from the 93 SD 3.0 in the 87 300D. No leaks.
Sixto 87 300D |
He must have quite a collection by now, I sent him mine too. Of course he sent me the gasket I needed. :)
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I just put a new Pierburg in my OM602. It came with a dam gasket, and the instructions said to remove the basket and use the dam gasket. (Damn gasket?) I followed the instructions. Did I do the right thing, or should I put the basket back with a non-dam gasket?
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Vacuum Pump Dam(n) Gasket
Do Not Use The Dam(N) Gasket With The "Assembly Basket".Take the Assembly
Basket Off and save it for when you next remove your Injection Pump. The "Assembly Basket" will keep the Dam(n) Gasket from seating properly on the face of the Timing Cover. There is no reason to leave the Assembly Basket in place with both the VP and IP installed. The nice thing about the Dam(n) Gasket is that it helps "hold" a little more lubricant up to the Vacuum Pump.They put them in use until they could alter the lubrication delivery to the VP. |
I did remove (and save) the basket before installing the dam(n) gasket. I was a bit confused by some of the pictures in post 94 that showed the non-dam(n)ed gasket specified for certain engine ranges. I think I'm OK.
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I'm reviving this thread as I have just experienced vacuum pump self destruction which has chewed up my timing device, on a 606, '95 E300D. Let this be a lesson to others, if funky stuff starts happening with your vacuum system, suspect the pump...
My question is on the job to replace the timing device. I see in this thread that the bolt is apparently reverse thread, that is good to know! But is this a job for a reasonably competent DIYer? Once the bolt is removed, what is the next step? From the photos in the thread the chain needs to be secured, the shaft is splined, is it just a matter of securing the chain, taking the bolt off, sliding the timing device forward to remove, and replacing? It would seem that the chain tension might be a problem. I'm sure this must be more difficult. I need to decide whether to flatbed to my indy or tackle this myself. Rgds and tia, Chris W. '95 E300D, 289K and holding |
Please post pics. I was under the impression that all 606 engines used a different direct-drive vacuum pump and IP timer. But, maybe these were only used on later iterations of the engine. Bummer man
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