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#16
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Thank you for the tutorial, from the photos below my sender certainly needed to be cleaned.
I did discover the copper wire had come off, presumably from the crud build up (was loose when I removed the aluminum casing). My question is where does this connect to. I'm unable to tell from the picture. Thank you! Good chunk of gunk at the bottom there. Cleaned Tube
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Nosce Te Ipsum "Know thyself" |
#17
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Impressive! I've never seen one that bad. Tomorrow I'll post some close-up pictures so you can see where the wire connects (it's already too late tonight).
Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#18
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46 gauge Resistance Nichrome Wire is very readily available on fleabay.
Its cheep too, 100 for $6
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not." |
#19
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Surprisingly when I shone a light into the tank, there was very minute specs of dirt/debris. Come summer time the strainer will be pulled and cleaned.
It's the copper wire that broke off, that Nichrome Wire is some strong stuff. I was probably much rougher with handling the unit than I should have, but its like a guitar string.
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Nosce Te Ipsum "Know thyself" |
#20
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Get some LA Totally Awesome cleaner, make a solution with 80% water and soak it overnight. Use a small acid brush on it every hour. It will be spotless afterwards. After it's clean , you'll be able to see where the broken solder joint is. If you project a line straight down from where the wire is still attached, you'll also find where it broke.
I have had broken nichrome wires (at the solder joint) where it's too short to be soldered back on. By splicing/soldering a short pigtail strand of copper wire to the nichrome, I was able to fix and save the sender .
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#21
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Sender pictures
Assault, you didn't identify your car but the sender is different—mine doesn't have a third wire. It uses the center support rod as the third wire. Thus, I can't tell you where that loose wire goes.
The following pictures are from a W124 E-class car. I keep this sender as a spare, it's probably from an early '90s gasser. Jeremy ]
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#22
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W123 senders are different physically and electrically. The W123 sender nichrome wire resistance is 57 ohms measured at the connector, not 90, I believe that figure is also stated in the FSM.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now 83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD! 83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked |
#23
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1980 300SD W116
Thanks for the pictures, hopefully someone knows where it goes on the w116.
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Nosce Te Ipsum "Know thyself" |
#24
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BUMP
I'm reviving an old thread to ask a question about this pic. Is the 300D sender longer than the 300E sender? It looks like it in this pic but maybe it's just the camera angle playing a trick.
I picked up a 90L tank out of a 95 E300 to swap into my 87 300D and I need to decide whether to try and fix my bouncy 70L sender and swap it into the 90L tank, use the sender that came with the 90L tank or buy a gasser sender to swap in. The 90L sender that came with the tank has exactly the same cracks as the one pictured in this thread.
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CENSORED due to not family friendly words Last edited by tjts1; 05-16-2016 at 02:54 AM. |
#25
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Excellent write up and contributions by everyone - if anyone is interested in submitting a DIY Tech Article and becoming one of our DIY Project Experts, check out the link below. If we publish your article, we'll give you 10% off your next order!
DIY PROJECT EXPERT SUBMISSIONS -Dmitry |
#26
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Quote:
Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 |
#27
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Thanks for the detailed thread Jeremy, v helpful.
Mine of S124 300TD
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David 1996 Mercedes S124 E300TD - 129k - rolling restoration project - 1998 Mercedes W210 300TD - 118k (assimilated into above vehicle) |
#28
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Thanks for the helpful information!
In case it's useful to anyone else with a W124 wagon, the sender is located underneath the floor of the cargo area where the backrest of the 3rd row seat is located. You have to completely remove the backrest portion of the 3rd row seat, then you can carefully take the felt liner out of the storage compartment in the floor and fold it back, and you can access the sender. The wagon sender is a little different than the sedan ones pictured in the first post of this thread - it doesn't have the angled head. Internally it seems the same though. A 46mm socket takes it out. 39Nm to reinstall. The aluminum tube of the sender has a couple small holes in its side. If you pull it up and out of the tank too fast, the remaining fuel inside the tube will gush out the holes and go all over your car. So be slow when removing it until the fuel has drained.
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1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth 1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD |
#29
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Quote:
I am trying to access the gas tank sending unit in a 1993 MB 300TE and I was hoping you could provide a little more detail about "completely remove the backrest portion of the 3rd row seat" That would be most helpful. -- Steve |
#30
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Quote:
It's been a while since I did this repair, so I don't remember the exact steps. But I recall removing the bolts in the areas circled in green, as well as the plastic pieces on the sides of the seat (pink arrow). Basically, any fastener that goes through the felt liner needs to be removed. I think the hinges for the plywood panel are underneath the upholstered seatback - so the upholstered part may have to come off of the plywood part to access the hinge screws. Once that's all out of the way, you can un-tuck the felt liner from under the carpet and fold it back.
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1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth 1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD |
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