I amk w/ stevo.

reduce the error instead of adding error to a very critical part of your drivetrain.

"if in fact, your stretch IS 8*"

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Throw in a 4* offset key and set the injection timing.

+1

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

Understanding the ease of this task is reasonable. It makes alot of sense and is a factory approved method.

The other side is the one that errs on the side of caution. If this is a car you pamper, you will not want to ruin the cam sprocket and crankshaft timing gears by wearing them down with an elongated chain.
These gears were made to be replaced w/o removng the engine ,But i would never wish that upon anyone. By practicing (overly) preventive maintenance, you save yourself some effort in other ways.

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Don't for get the timing chain guide rails too.
I have read a lot on the Forum concerning replacing the Chain and the Chain Tensioner but not about all of the other parts that also wear as until now no one has made much comment on them. I say good call.

I would think that the Crankshaft Drive Gear would have the most wear of all the gears on it as it has less teeth to spread the load over and has the full load of pulling everthing else.
Also, if a timing chain has 8 degrees of stretch and your Oil Pump is chain driven it could be a good idea to ceck that also and the Oil Pump Chain Tensioner.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Changing the chain is a waste of time if you don't change the rails as well.

Do you mean guide rails, slide rails, or both?

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Current Mercedes
1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed

Gone and fondly remembered:
1980 orient red 240D 4-speed

Gone and NOT fondly remembered:
1982 Chna Blue 300TD

Other car in the stable:
2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT

Use of the word rails might have not have been the best choice of words. My meaning was that if the Chain rubs on something with continous contact for 20+ years there must be a wear mark on the part that matches the old Chain. I would not like a new Chain to try to run in the same old groove as the old Chain.
The Long one on the passanger side of the engine (US cars) that the Timing Chain Tensioner pushes against the chain and the Oil Pump has one that pushes on the Oil Pump Drive Chain.
The others should; if possible be looked at but I do not believe that the Chain rubs on them like the big one. (Whe I first got my car I had a noise in the upper Timing Chain area; it was the upper Chain Guid loose.)

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel