Hi folks,

I'm trying to decrease the slip/flare on my 2 to 3rd gear shifts. Rpms are way above 3,000. I have to back off the pedal to modulate shifts to 3rd. Just to make 100% sure, is this the right nut to turn? If yes, there's been minimal effect on the 2 to 3rd shift problem

Thanks,
Bob

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The second two diagrams claim #230 is the Bowden cable.

The problem I'm having helping you,is that #230 is the
cable that is connected to the Accelerator Pedal [and is on the driver's side of
of the engine].There is a completely separate cable (with red bellows) that is
on the passenger side of the Engine,that connects the Throttle linkage with
the Transmission (#211 in the third diagram)[AND I always believed THAT was the Bowden cable].


I am sure some helpful 603 owner will chime in, soon.

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__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Compress,

Thanks as always for answering my question. With the diagram and the part pic, you really clarified my confusion over the 1st diagram. I believe the 2nd diagram might be for a gasser. I looked on my passenger compartment and did not see anything like that.

Big edit here: what I graphically described earlier as the bowden cable nut adjustment is the accelerator/throttle cable as Lvfast posts below in this thread.

Bob

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The FSMs pictograms and diagrams always leave me trying to "Put My Head on
Backwards" to view them in relationship to what I can See on the car.

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

compress,

most definitely. sometimes while im working on the car, ill take the diagram and instead of turning the diagram the right way, i'll turn my whole body or head and try to make sense of the diagram to the car

i always thought the bowden was adjusted towards the back of the engine, but still on top and easily accessible, just off to the left of the good ol' mercedes imprint on the engine itself. There is a wire/cable that goes from this point down to the trans....maybe I'm wrong about it. It certainly has an effect on shifting from gear to gear.



BG

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JBG
1985 TD wagon, 228k
running on grease since 3.07
AUSTIN, TEXAS

JBG,

You have the 617XXX series engine...And your Transmission cable is on the
passenger side...And is Adjustable
(Hence,it's affecting your Tranny's shift points)
[This is the Cable I've always thought of as the "Bowden" from my 300SD days]

I've presently got the 602.962 series engine...and the Tranny cable is still on the passenger side,BUT is not adjustable.
The adjustment comes from the length of the "Doggie Bones" connectors that go over the Valve Cover.

Bob has the 603XXX engine which is, yet, another whole setup.

The Gassers may have still another different control sets.

__________________
'84 300SD sold
124.128

Bob, I dont have a manual to back my theory but i look at my car and the nut you are adjusting in your pic is just taking the slop out of the accel cable from go pedal.. i have already done that with my car and it improved drivability and shifting due to more allowable throttle when floored...but i beleive the adjustment your looking for is directly below that one.. a lever and cable covered in a rubber boot.. you can see the ball connection of the lever in your photo but i took some from my car and will upload as soon as i edit them.....Hope this helps while I edit my photos

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W211 E550
HVAC/R Certified Technician

Here is the pics from my 1987 300d, nevermind that tacky zip tie i just need to address a permenant repair for that adjustment the plastic bumps are rotted off..I hope these pics help and im not miss leading but im 90% confident your pic is just the throttle cable adjustment the zip tie on mine is there to remove play to "go" pedal inside car and can be easily followed to the firewall...The second picture identifies the adjustment i beleive you want for your kick downshift/upshift adjustment...i dont know why mine are plastic for same year car?
Sorry about the size im new to posting pics

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W211 E550
HVAC/R Certified Technician

Ivfast1,

You're correct the Transmission Cable (That connects the Accelerator Linkages
to the Transmission is in your second "reply" [#9] the Bottom picture.)

(I'll bet that little white plastic nut is a joy to get to, to adjust!)

Here's your confirmation:

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

lvfast,

"and it improved drivability and shifting due to more allowable throttle when floored...but i beleive the adjustment your looking for is directly below that one"

is probably what i was feeling too when i adjusted the big nut in the picture i took. thanks for clearing that up for me.

as it is late now and i my belly is full from a great korean bbq meal, i'm going to work on this tomorrow. i really appreciate you and compress going through all the effort to help me here. I'll report back what happens after I adjust the white nut in your picture.

thanks!
Bob

Gents,

Ok, good news: i played around w/ the white adjustment nut for about an hour on the road and got it to shift around 3,000 to 3,200 rpm. Anything less, the car would be sluggish. Shifting from 2-3 is 10x better than what it used to be. A quick trip to the grocery store with the misses, and the misses approved

The nut itself is 13mm and is plastic. I used two 3/8" extensions and stuck a crow's foot wrench on it. Makes it very easy to turn. I dont see any other way of turning this nut.

Now here's the bad news: I broke the nut's head off the shaft. turning the nut towards the front of the vehicle (clockwise) allowed me to lower the shift points. It was easy. However, when I attempted to back the nut towards the rear of the vehicle (CCW), the nut snapped. I was thinking "Hey, if it was easy to turn in, it'll turn back out the other way". Hard lesson learned. I guess thats why they tell you to take the ball socket off and then adjust. Clearly i forgot this and now this will be a $70 lesson learned >:|

Will this be dangerous to drive on until I get a replacement cable? It shifts great otherwise.

Bob, I cant exactly picture in my mind where it broke but if it just snapped clean between nut and threaded shaft i would think as long as it is still complete around and not split like a clam for example, there would be no dangerous effects and will keep you present adjustment, as long as the cable jacket is rigid and wont slide in and out rather than cable inside nothing will change, worst case if jacket moved it could stick in down shift or upshift position which would an unpleasant surprise on a commute, then you would have to stop and unstick manually on the side of the road...sorry about the bad luck.. but you might want to follow that cable to where it terminates on the trans before you tackle, i cant even see where it ends on my car....Good luck

Arlo

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W211 E550
HVAC/R Certified Technician

You've probably already figured out that lifting the washer bottle about 6" (while still connected) makes it easier to adjust the nut with an arm below the bottle.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

This has nothing to do with the cable but Bob got my mind wondering about that shift kit.

Sixto
87 300D

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