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#91
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How many shop hours?
What's the labor time for both front wheels on this procedure?
w123 ... Pad Rotor Bearings And ... caliper replacement Would have to include brake bleeding front AND rear, I presume? Anybody know?
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1983 300CDT -- 177K |
#92
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30-45 minutes a side if you've got experience.
actual book hours, no idea. Last edited by TheDon; 10-10-2012 at 01:50 PM. |
#93
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Hi guys I am halfway through using this diy to replace the (front) calipers, rotors and grease the bearing, but then night fell.
I am replacing the bearing but leaving the old races, next time I'll get them (knocking them out scares me). My question .. how much grease should be packed in the cavity behind the bearing? Half full? More? Less?. Apologies if this has been addressed, I'm tired and may have overlooked it. Much thanks to 79Mercy for posting excellent pictures. edit: one additional qestion I keep seeing youtube videos of manually working grease into the bearing.. anything wrong with just directing the end of the grease gun into the gap at few places round the rim? Seemed to drive through the grease allright. Last edited by Zeppelin_Noir; 12-28-2012 at 09:14 PM. |
#94
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Quote:
The space between the bearings won't provide any lubrication to the bearings if you fill it with grease............you only waste a pile of grease. The bearings themselves need to be "packed" with grease as shown in the video. Directing the grease gun to the area of the bearing does nothing in terms of getting the grease into the rollers. The entire bearing should be packed full of as much grease as you can possible stuff in there. But, anything outside the raceway isn't going to matter whatsoever. |
#95
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If you put too much grease on the spindle you wont be able to put the hub on.
To pack them by hand wear a pair of medium or heavy duty nitrile gloves and put a nice big dab of grease in your palm and work the grease into the bearing. |
#96
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Quote:
On removing a hub I find the grease is nicely distributed on the hub inner wall and the inner sides of the bearings full. Pack the hub with orange wheel bearing grease and the bearings with a compatible black wheel bearing grease then see where the orange stuff ends up.
__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#97
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Quote:
The same logic can apply to the inner bearing. The grease seal prevents any migration of grease out of the inner bearing, thereby, effectively, preventing any grease from the space to migrate outward toward the bearing, if it were inclined to do so. I don't see this happening. |
#98
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The orange grease will end up against the inside of the bearings and try to fill any voids found. If the bearings are fully packed the orange grease will not enter the bearing.
__________________
1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#99
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I'm doing this job now...I'm replacing the left side bearings because, like an idiot, I accidentally pried on one of them while removing the grease seal, deforming the race. Sometimes I'm my own worst enemy.
FWIW, on the other side I found a good way to remove the seal when it's stuck...stick a small chisel or screwdriver against the edge of the metal part of the seal, where it sticks out of the hub, and tap a couple times to form a divot...then angle the chisel, with the tip in the divot, and tap to force the seal outward. Do this a couple times, 180 degrees apart, and it'll pop out. Now my question is, does anyone have any slick tricks for getting the old bearing races out? I've been hammering like crazy on those buggers and they won't budge. Maybe I can groove them with a cutting wheel and hit them with a cold chisel, to try to fracture them?
__________________
1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png |
#100
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The act of using a hammer and a drift on one side of the race drives that side forward and jams the race in the hub. If you realize this has occurred, of course you can tap on the opposite side and square the race back up again. But, most folks do not know whether the race has been knocked out of squareness because it's very difficult to see the size of the gap that develops. The best procedure is to tap lightly all around the face of the race with a drift and continue this process as it starts to move. Remember, harder hits are not your friend in this situation. Patience is a virtue. |
#101
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if you have a welder, you can run a bead along the inside of the race, then bang the hub on the floor, and the race will fall out.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#102
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Quote:
Quote:
For reinstallation, I'm thinking it may help to put the new races in the freezer to shrink them.
__________________
1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png |
#103
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Dry ice will start you off with .002" shrink and you'll be amazed at how easy the task becomes. I pay $1.50/lb. for it........well worth the cost. |
#104
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Quote:
__________________
1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png |
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