Thanks for this, I'm about to do this same job tomorrow.

I'm needing this car back on the road *NOW* so I won't be cleaning/repacking the wheel bearings but I will at some point (next week probably) soon. I'd like to have seen a couple steps about pulling the inner bearing/seal and cleaning/repacking. I'm also concerned that if I hadn't already asked a bunch of people about how to set the bearing tension that your method would tend to influence me to set them too tight.

I'm an instructor and the big thing I've learned (sometimes the hard way) is that people will misconstrue EVERYTHING you say. Its so important to be precise..

Also saying "whatever" when somebody gives you constructive criticism is just rude. I applaud you for your effort but theres just a couple little things that could make this writeup awesome (the pics are great btw!).

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Sadly Benz-less

why? I said snug it down and then turn the nut to the left until you feel it break free, then snug down the nut.

As for the rear bearing seal just pry it out with a flat head, its going to break so just buy a new one.

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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

This is a recipe for disaster. The bearing sits right behind it and the temptation is to use the face of the bearing for leverage. You cannot "pry" the seal from the hub..........you must "pull" it.

A seal puller also tends to use the bearing for leverage.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

I never used the actual tool, but the leverage on the bearing doesn't seem to be a very good design. I've damaged the face of a bearing using leverage and would never advise anyone to approach it that way.

Far better to hook the seal and provide a vertical impact force on the "hook". Do this several times around the seal and it moves forward and out without any bearing damage.

Just bumping this thread, where do I get a dial indicator? Went to the local auto parts stores and they don't have it...tried Autozone, Pep Boys, Kragen, no go.

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

Try these guys.........good prices for less than "professional" tools:

www.use-enco.com

Here are two suppliers I use all the time.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=dial%20indicator

https://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-63656.html

http://www.wttool.com

http://www.pts-tools.com

Thanks, I found one at Harbor Freight and there's a store on my way home from work. Since I'll be doing the brake job tomorrow I might as well just pass by there. Hope they're open after 5, just in case!

Edit: What's the best way to remove the inner bearing? Instead of repacking I just bought new ones for peace of mind. SKF a good brand?

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

this should read the Inner bearing seal... anyway, here's what I have done for years professionally and at home. it always worked for me, and it DOES NOT DAMAGE THE SEAL OR THE BEARINGS... if done carefully.

after you have popped out the outer bearing and set it in the dust cap, put the lock nut back on loosely, now gently pull the hub over the nut and rest the inner bearing against the lock nut, now slide the hub on a bit then pop it out against the nut. this will force the inner bearing race against the surface of the grease seal and pop both out of the hub.
********************************************************
warning!!! if not done correctly, you can damage both the inner bearing and the race of the inner bearing. so fully inspect both after the bearings are out, and be prepared to drive out the race and replace the bearings, race and seal. !!!
*********************************************************

you should then clean thoroughly, the inner, outer bearings, and completely remove all traces of grease from the hub, and the spindle. unless you are absolutely sure you have exactly the same brand and weight of grease as what is already in there. most high pressure greases do not mix well...
then re pack the bearings with your preferred grease and pack a thick layer of grease inside the hub. DO NOT FILL THE HUB WITH GREASE!!! just a layer around the inside of the hub.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

...........and, without great knowledge and care, it will not be done correctly............

This procedure is fraught with risk...........I wouldn't advise it for anyone but a professional.

That is a good way. I have used big channel locks also.

I have also used a small cold chisel to bend the seal inward, but parallel to the bearing so I could get a flat head and pry it up against the lip of the hub.

__________________
RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Won't that damage the seal?

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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg

Wouldn't the preferred method be to open the bleeder on the caliper before depressing the pistons for pad installation? I am of the opinion that the brake fluid that has been exposed to the most heat and has the most probability of containing contaminants such as water would be nearest to the caliper. I certainily wouldn't want any possibly contaminated fluid pushed back up into an ABS controller as installed on my W126. Another point is if the master cylinder reservoir has been topped off between pad changes, when you go to push in the caliper piston to install the pads without opening the bleeder the possibilty exists that you may get some brake fluid shooting back through the hole in the top of the reservoir cap. Just my 2 cents..

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BENZSTER

W123, '81 240D, Pastel Grey/Blue Tex
W126, '88 300 SEL, Artic White/Grey Leather

When he states "inward", he means toward the centerline of the hub..........not parallel to the axis of the hub. To force the seal inward is diffcult because the chisel needs to bite into the surface of the seal and puncture it. Then, the seal can be forced "inward"..........and not "downward".

If you can damage it and force it inward, you'll be able to get a prying instrument on the hub to lift it upward without prying on the bearing.