Guys, I'm in a serious state of hurt. Replaced the number one delivery valve crush washer last night at aroud 11 PM and really- I mean REALLY - f..ked up. I put the delivery valve and holder in upside down.

I know I deserve every admonition and I-told-you-so, but right now I need some help. I cranked it a lot last night before I gave up, and then around 2AM while trying to go to sleep, I realized what I did wrong. I put everything back the way it should be, with a new crush washer, and it still wouldn't start. Cracked the injection lines - no fuel.

I thought I must have destroyed the IP, but the problem may be before the fuel even gets to the IP. I loosened the line from the lift pump to the big (secondary?) fuel filter, and when using the hand pump, fuel comes flying out. When cranking the engine - no fuel at all, so it sounds like I ruined the lift pump (at least). I'm probably going to take the lift pump off in a few minutes, but would really appreciate some advice.

I think I finally did it this time.

I don't believe that you've provided the complete story, and, therefore, it won't be possible to help you.

Here is why:

If you screwed up #1, the engine would start and run on the other four........it would just run badly.

The failure to start has nothing to do with #1, so, the need for more information is mandatory.

It takes around 12 seconds for fuel too get up to the injectors, which does seem like an eternity sometimes, are you sure you cranked it long enough? Lift pumps usually last the life of the car then some.

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Brian,

I hope you're right. Here's everything else I did last night. It ran fine beforehand.

I changed the secondary fuel filter.

I pulled all of the injectors and cleaned the nozzles.

And here's what I think you're driving at:

I did a compression check on cylinder number one to confirm the results I got a couple of weeks ago. It was still low, so I poured some oil (about a quarter ounce) into the injector hole to see if the compression improved. I also sprayed some brake cleaner into the prechambers to clean them out. I must have overdone it, and didn't wait long enough for it to evaporate. I suspect that there must have been fluid in the cylinders when I tried to crank it, and that I may have blown out the diaphram in the lift pump.

I pulled the lift pump, but don't know where the diaphram is. I need to take a step back before I make it worse.

I know I messed up, and am, to be perfectly honest, embarassed. I can understand people saying to themselves, "The idiot did it to himself, and now he has to suffer the consequences." I can only ask for mercy, and assure you and everyone else I learned my lesson -which I'm afraid will be an expensive one. Hopefully, the next guy can learn from my mistakes.

Thanks

Edit: I guess there's no diaphram. I'm just clueless.

There's no diaphram in the lift pump, it's a piston. If you remove the 30mm (maybe 32?) nut on the front of pump you will see the spring and piston behind it. If you are going to take it apart be careful because that spring is under some pressure. I seriously doubt you broke the lift pump by spraying stuff in your cylinders and that there is probably no reason to take it apart.

Try putting it all back together and pump the primer until you hear the relief valve operating and fuel is flowing through the return line. If your system has an empty secondary filter or lines full of air this may be 50 or more strokes on the primer. Then crack all the injector lines and crank the engine until you see fuel coming out the lines. Air in the injection system can make it seem like the whole thing just died but just takes some purging.

Quick test is disconnect cigar return line and let it discharge into a 2 litter coke bottle to watch amount of fuel returning while cranking....
If fuel is flowing then lift pump is pumping....

Like the previous post said...there is no diaphragm....just an O-ring around the piston push rod....between the piston and roller assy...

__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Did you pre-fill the canister fuel filter before replacing it?

If not, remove it and do so, and then start priming it again.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

That's my suspicion, as well.

An empty secondary filter will cause the IP to fill with air and it'll become next to impossible to start.

If this occurred, the secondary must be filled and the primer pump must be operated for about 100 strokes.

Then, all five injection lines should be cracked and the vehicle cranked with right foot planted until fuel dribbles out of the hard lines.

Tighten all five hard line nuts and start the engine.

I only had the secondary half filled. I did fill it completely after it failed to start, but air must have got in the system before I did.

When I tried to start it last night, it did sound like it tried to start, but it never did. Today, nothing.

I put the lift pump back on, and pumped it one hell of a lot. I heard air hissing, and fuel was hitting the floor, but no matter how much i crank the engine, nothing is coming out of the IP. I'm not sure where the fuel is coming out of, but that's happened everytime I've used the pump before, so I suspect it's normal.

Hopefully, it's just air in the system, and that cranking will eventually clear it. I'm trying to go easy on the starter, and not crank it too long so it doesn't overheat, but pretty soon my battery will give out. If I can get this fixed by only buying a battery charger, I'll consider myself VERY lucky.

Thanks everyone, and I'll let you know how it turns out.

Do I remember correctly that someone discovered that clamping off the return line primed the system faster?

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

If fuel leaks when using your primer pump then it is shot. What can happen then is that the lift pump will suck air via the leaky primer pump. Make sure you have it all the way tightened down to seal it off.

While waiting for the starter to cool off, here's an update:

Fuel comes out ot the cigar hose when using the hand pump, but not while cranking. This is similar to what lead me to believe it was the lift pump initially.

Keep cranking?

When I put my lift pump back on, I reverted to the Monark pump that was on the car when I bought it. It leaks when pumping, but seals up good when I tighten it down. I changed it to rule out the possibility of it being the hand pump I got from the pick and pull a few weeks ago. I'll probably switch it back, since it doesn't leak at all.

Please explain in more detail. Nothing is coming out of WHERE on the IP? Are the injector hard lines open?

Let the lift pump suck from a fresh bottle of diesel as a temporary supply to eliminate fuel tank screen restriction.....put new hoses on everything fuel related....about $1.00 a foot at hardware store...get tight fit with clamps on all suction side hoses....just takes a small air leak to cause trouble...

__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)